2 Piece Driveshaft Phasing/Alignment

Beerj · Jan 28, 2017

As some of you know, I've been working on some driveshafts. I got to browsing the interwebz and came across some info. Apparently, when running a 2 piece shaft with a carrier bearing, they say to have the shaft coming from the transfer case parallel to the centerline of the axle pinion. For example, if I have my pinion tipped up 5° then the shaft from the tc to bearing should also be at 5°.

Is this really necessary in a trail rig? I figure with no on road driving and a constantly changing pinion angle while on the trails, it wouldn't make hardly any difference. Thought? Opinions?

pholmann · Jan 28, 2017

I wouldn't think it's that important on a trail rig. It's mainly for vibration I think.

Beerj · Jan 28, 2017

Here's where I'm at so far. Part of the reason for the 2 piece shaft was to keep it out of the upper link. I'm not sure if I have room to go up enough to match the angles without getting into the link.

kmcminn · Jan 28, 2017

You need to have both of the yokes running with each other.

Beerj · Jan 28, 2017

kmcminn said:
You need to have both of the yokes running with each other.

Yeah, I just fitted the pieces up, only one of the yokes is pressed in. I just happened to mock it up as wrong looking as possible.

pholmann said:
I wouldn't think it's that important on a trail rig. It's mainly for vibration I think.

That's what I'm thinking too but wanted to make sure before I get too far with this.

DAkk · Jan 28, 2017

It's hard to tell from the pic, how's the angle gonna be on the middle joint at full bump? As long as they can't bind I'd run it.. Still running square tube shafts on my brothers buggy with retarded pinion angles for ground clearance and die grindered the yokes so they don't bind.. They click and rattle and vibrate, but they don't give up..

Beerj · Jan 29, 2017

DAkk said:
It's hard to tell from the pic, how's the angle gonna be on the middle joint at full bump? As long as they can't bind I'd run it.. Still running square tube shafts on my brothers buggy with retarded pinion angles for ground clearance and die grindered the yokes so they don't bind.. They click and rattle and vibrate, but they don't give up..

I'm not exactly sure what the angle will be but I'm sure it's no where near enough to bind. Especially with 1410's.

DAkk · Jan 29, 2017

You'll be fine then.. I don't think you'll even notice a vibe at trail speeds, especially with a tight carrier and new joints.. Sharper angles will stress em more, but it's nothin compared to what we do with axle joints after a 5:13 or whatever reduction..

Elliott · Jan 29, 2017

Search on the tech page, I linked a you tube video explaining driveshafts with demonstrations on it, very good article. Prob a month or two ago, not sure on that

Elliott · Jan 29, 2017

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idk3BVDVHq4&sns=em

Found it

Beerj · Jan 29, 2017

That's funny. I remembered watching it when you put it up but couldn't remember if what it showed applied to my situation. Found it early this morning and wouldn't you know, it demonstrates exactly what happens if you don't do it right. That being said, I still don't know how much of a difference it would make at slow speeds but if I can get it right then that's what I'll shoot for. I'm thinking my shaft will spin faster than the one in the demo so that's all the more reason to get it right too. Thanks

617_Racing · Jan 29, 2017

I'm in the same situation with my build. I have a brand new factory style GM CV that I am going to run from the tcase, then my BMF 1410(ish) CV off the other side of the carrier bearing.

At least that's my current idea/plan.

Beerj · Jan 29, 2017

I got the short shaft all tacked together. There wasn't enough room to match the pinion angle perfectly but it's only off by 2 degrees. Hopefully that should be close enough. Snapped some pics but they don't really show much.

zsavage81 · Jan 31, 2017

I may not have done as much homework on this as i should have. I couldn't clear my transmission pan. So the entire reason for the carrier bearing was to take the shaft a hair outward so the second shaft would clear. Am i going to have issues?

TBItoy · Jan 31, 2017

Unless you are planning to weld a yoke on the back end of that midship and run 4 u joints, then it doesn't look like you can even put a driveshaft together the way you have it set up. :dunno:

zsavage81 · Jan 31, 2017

TBItoy said:
Unless you are planning to weld a yoke on the back end of that midship and run 4 u joints, then it doesn't look like you can even put a driveshaft together the way you have it set up.

planning to run a 6" slip so I can collapse the shaft, then pull it apart to get it in there. Drive shaft man says i need a slip between the case and bearing. I really wish I'd looked on the internet more and made the carrier bearing unit itself removable. Totally shitty design by me, gonna be straight screwed if the bearing craps out as those are pressed in.

tommy450r · Jan 31, 2017

where are yall getting your carrier bearings? i need a kit to put one in my buggy..

zsavage81 · Jan 31, 2017

tommy450r said:
where are yall getting your carrier bearings? i need a kit to put one in my buggy..

Wide open design

kmcminn · Jan 31, 2017

Zsavage how are you going to remove your carrier bearing kount incase you need to change bearing?

zsavage81 said:
Wide open design

Buy the mount Woodlee sells with them.

Beerj · Jan 31, 2017

Yup. I almost made mine impossible to remove but caught it at the last second. I got the rest of the front shaft tacked in and all seems good. Only 3/4" length change through the whole suspension travel but I think that's mostly because the end of the stub shaft is real close to where the links mount to the chassis.