Keep Breaking Axels

John Galbreath Jr. · Apr 6, 2009

I keep breaking the drivers rear inner axel. It ilways breaks at the carrier at the end of the splines. Always looks like you cut it off with a saw, very smooth. I am running Yukon 35 spline. What can I do different to make this stronger. I have broke about 6 or so now. I have tow broke now and am out of spares.

BamaTJ · Apr 6, 2009

Are you absolutely sure they are the right length and not too long? My first guess is that the first owner measured for inner shafts wrong and they are off. I would call a shaft builder and ask on how to measure for custom inners using just the housing and not the old shafts. Might try superior shafts also, they are pretty much the best quality around now.

John Galbreath Jr. · Apr 6, 2009

Matt O. said:
Are you absolutely sure they are the right length and not too long? My first guess is that the first owner measured for inner shafts wrong and they are off. I would call a shaft builder and ask on how to measure for custom inners using just the housing and not the old shafts. Might try superior shafts also, they are pretty much the best quality around now.

Good idea on the length, I'll check how to measure. We had to cut off about 3/16" to get it to fit, so it is tight in there, maybe 1/16" clearance, maybe less!!! It at all apart now, so easy to measure. I had an axel seal leaking on each end, so both ends apart. Bearings bad in front, taking care of that also!!

CHASMAN9 · Apr 6, 2009

I noticed that it was broken off about 1" from the end of the shaft. Is this length typical? :dunno:

I have always seen them broken off after the spline has ended into the shaft. :dunno:

Juan_Hong_Loe · Apr 6, 2009

Just a thought...Had a buddy that had a rear housing that was bent. Kept breaking shafts. couldnt tell by looking at it though. Just something to check.

Rokcrler · Apr 6, 2009

x2 on the bent housing.
To measure i stick a tape and hook it to the side gear and use a ratchet extension between the C's which is the center of the ujoint cross..
Pic courtesy of PBB Steve Gerstner

One sure way to keep from breaking shafts is to get rid of the Reds and get some supersuckers? molaugh

crawler1 · Apr 6, 2009

Always had a Problem breaking junk Yukon axles . Switched to Moser 35 axles and stopped all the breaking . Except for snapping the spools and Detroit locker in half .

Caddishack18 · Apr 6, 2009

Check your axle housing. It might be bent at the center section.

B Gillespie · Apr 6, 2009

CTM "Drive Home Shafts". Your axles won't be your weak link.

P · Apr 6, 2009

B Gillespie said:
CTM "Drive Home Shafts". Your axles won't be your weak link.

Personally, Id be afraid of that issue.... they arent breaking "that" often. Might not be such a bad weak link that one inner shaft... :dunno:

Whatchu going to start breaking next ? R&P isnt worth it IMO.

jtreeves1 · Apr 6, 2009

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

John Galbreath Jr. · Apr 6, 2009

jtreeves1 said:
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

I'm not sure these are stronger where I am breaking them, my joints are holding up fine.

John Galbreath Jr. · Apr 6, 2009

P said:
Personally, Id be afraid of that issue.... they arent breaking "that" often. Might not be such a bad weak link that one inner shaft... Whatchu going to start breaking next ? R&P isnt worth it IMO.

Perhaps, but when it breaks, there is no guarantee you can get the broke part out. We spent over an hour this time. With the ARB, you cannot even remove the other axle and drive it out. So, it is possible to have to reassemble it broken just to load it on the trailer. Guess I could put a hub on that corner, but I don't think they sell them in 12 paks!!!

Any idea what the CTM "Drive Home Shafts" cost for one inner custom length????

Jeepnron · Apr 6, 2009

A whole lot!!! But what is money to a childs happiness! ;D

B Gillespie · Apr 7, 2009

John Galbreath Jr. said:
Perhaps, but when it breaks, there is no guarantee you can get the broke part out. We spent over an hour this time. With the ARB, you cannot even remove the other axle and drive it out. So, it is possible to have to reassemble it broken just to load it on the trailer. Guess I could put a hub on that corner, but I don't think they sell them in 12 paks!!!

Any idea what the CTM "Drive Home Shafts" cost for one inner custom length????

With a good brand of gears and set up, R&P breakage rates wont increase after upgrading axles; a wive's tale similar to hub fuses. As stated in the low pinion thread, I ran 300M front shafts, low pinion D60, Detroit, and 4.10 gears with minimal issues, AFTER I upgraded shafts. Many, including myself, believe ARB differentials are stronger than Detroits, also increasing reliability. Out of the events I have attended and group I wheel/wheeled with, for Dana 60's, a high end set of axle shafts alleviated most all breakage. High end axle shafts will be machined for more steering so you will not constantly be running at max turning angle, machined for proper torsional loading, have a proper press fit on U-joint caps to elminate slop, etc.

The longfield/CTM debate has been hashed out MANY times before. I have my opinion, just as everyone else. Lots of info on the PBB about that one.

If you would like an exact price on an axle shaft(s), pm me.

Woodlee · Apr 7, 2009

Screw weak links! Build it until it doesnt break any more.

Call the Shop Spidertrax is close on having their shafts for regular 60's

CHASMAN9 · Apr 7, 2009

ROCKWELL REAR, 60 front. :flipoff1:

draggbody · Apr 7, 2009

Woodlee said:
Screw weak links! Build it until it doesnt break any more.

like putting a penny under the fuse...

Bones · Apr 7, 2009

14B with rock outers. :woot:

Caddishack18 · Apr 7, 2009

Put a straight edge on it. your tube is bent at the housing. What else breaks the same axle at the same place?? Do you keep hitting the same rock? Its the housing!