1TONTJ
Amateur Hardcore
Reading this thread: http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=50670.0 inspired me to do a little tech thread on an alternate method of converting the LS water pump inlet to a -16 fitting. I too have had trouble installing the popular push in style aluminum fittings and have had to deal with splitting the aluminum housing. Here's what I came up with.
First, you need to pick up a 1" male O-ring face seal to male 1" JIC fitting at your local hydraulic store or online. The threads on this particular fitting are 1.44" o.d. which is different than other sizes.
Next, you will need a 1-7/16 x 12 tpi tap. I found a cheap one on eBay.
Put your water pump into a vise with soft jaw inserts to hold it while you remove the steel water neck. I use a pair of Vise Grips and a hammer to tap it out of the housing.
The i.d. of the housing on this particular water pump is 1.2955".
The i.d. needs to be bored to 1.35" for the tapping process. Now, the proper way to do this would be to have a machinist do it but I'm writing this for us common folk. I first used a brake cylinder hone to take off the majority of the material. I went through two sets of stones during this process.
With the bulk of the material removed, I used a 1-1/2" flap wheel in my drill to finish it off to 1.35". The wheel is flexible enough to be squeezed into the housing. (My electric die grinder didn't have enough power to turn the flap wheel in the housing)
Finally, tap the housing. Go slow, use plenty of lubricant and pay attention to your alignment
Voila!
I recommend adding some RTV or thread sealant before final installation.
Again, this is probably not the best way to thread the housing and I have yet to test it for leaks. This tech is aimed at the common wheeler who likes to do stuff himself in his own garage. I guess if it doesn't work you could always buy the press in fitting and just weld it on. laughing1
I'm crossing my fingers that it works. If not, I owe SHAWNEECRAWLER a new water pump! laughing1
First, you need to pick up a 1" male O-ring face seal to male 1" JIC fitting at your local hydraulic store or online. The threads on this particular fitting are 1.44" o.d. which is different than other sizes.
Next, you will need a 1-7/16 x 12 tpi tap. I found a cheap one on eBay.
Put your water pump into a vise with soft jaw inserts to hold it while you remove the steel water neck. I use a pair of Vise Grips and a hammer to tap it out of the housing.
The i.d. of the housing on this particular water pump is 1.2955".
The i.d. needs to be bored to 1.35" for the tapping process. Now, the proper way to do this would be to have a machinist do it but I'm writing this for us common folk. I first used a brake cylinder hone to take off the majority of the material. I went through two sets of stones during this process.
With the bulk of the material removed, I used a 1-1/2" flap wheel in my drill to finish it off to 1.35". The wheel is flexible enough to be squeezed into the housing. (My electric die grinder didn't have enough power to turn the flap wheel in the housing)
Finally, tap the housing. Go slow, use plenty of lubricant and pay attention to your alignment
Voila!
I recommend adding some RTV or thread sealant before final installation.
Again, this is probably not the best way to thread the housing and I have yet to test it for leaks. This tech is aimed at the common wheeler who likes to do stuff himself in his own garage. I guess if it doesn't work you could always buy the press in fitting and just weld it on. laughing1
I'm crossing my fingers that it works. If not, I owe SHAWNEECRAWLER a new water pump! laughing1
