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New front end

Probably, but the emery cloth will give the swirl effect that most definitely "get's the bitches"

So that's what I am doing wrong, :mad:

Now I need to rethink mine. Actually very cool and awesome stuff. Building is half the fun, and after it's done, look out!:awesomework:
 
Brake lathes do not like taking .080 off at a time, especially the the bar mounted upside down so the bolts are taking the force.

cleaning them up with a sander disc is what you are seeing in the pictures. Kind of like the non directional finish on rotor turns, Only with a 50 grit sander disc.
 
So I got a chance to work on for a couple of hours yesterday.

I knew I wanted 7.25" off of the tube, so measure 3 times and cut once.

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next I cut off the tube as close to the knuckle as I could.

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Then I made a couple of cuts through the tube to relieve stress.

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Then I took a angle grinder and started grinding the end. I did it in the center and stayed away from the knuckle, grinding at an angle so as not to take material away that I needed. This also gives you a slight undercut when the old tube comes out. That gives you a bit more weld for strength.

When I thought I was most of the way through the factory weld, I stopped and using a drift and hammer tried moving the tube in the knuckle. After a couple of times I could see the part line and could drive it out from there.

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cut off tube section and the pieces that were driven out of the inner "c"

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I cleaned up the tube and the inner part of the "c" before putting it back on.

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I tapped the "C" back on a little bit and then compared the caster angle to the other side. I knew the pinion angle would be close at the factory settings and as I was just changing one side, I matched the angle from the old side to the new side to make sure they are the same.


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I then finished driving the "C" back on and after double checking the angle one more time I welded it back together.

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Now the housing is ready for cleanup and putting back together.
 

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I won't get into setting up the gears. There are plenty of writeups on that already.

But a few things I have found from experience.

This style of pinion nut is NOT FOR SETUP! it is a one time only use and if you use it to setup your new gears, you will destroy the threads on the pinion.

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And when you do install it for the finished gears, you had better locktite it, because even though it is a interference fit, it will back off.

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ARB does a very good job on relief notching so you can get the side bearings back off to adjust bearing preload.

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Ring gear bolts should always be cleaned of oil and locktite put on before install

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And do not cut the zip ties holding the ARB untill you have most of the ring gear bolts started.

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Also for those of you new to Dana axles, they are marked on the bearing caps and housing at the factory.

there is a letter stamped on the cap and matching on the housing. The letter can be right side up, upside down, or sideways, and the housing is stamped the same way.

If the letter is sideways on the upper side of the cap, it will be sideways above the centerline on the housing also. so match the letters and you are set.

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Checking the brake brackets... (Blackbirds custom trucks)

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Installing the Longfield axles

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They are a very tight fit. clearance is a must.

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I'm doing 3-link home work for my rig and I'm wondering how things turned out for you? How do you like the ballistic shocks, how well has the square tubing turned out for you?

Thanks shawnb
 

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