FJ axles under yota truck?

NotSoPC said:

Has any got any ideas or pics of a yota with a set up like this? I am thinking of how to route/set-up the shocks so they clear. Thanx:awesomework:

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Try fitting coils on there! Tons of room for air shocks.:awesomework:

if i were to do a radius arm on a dd, i would use cartrage joints instead of hiems, just for the rebuildability an strength. ya can buy all the tabs off ballistic to do this for resonable pricin. I wouldnt put a bend in em, just for strengths sake, if ya had room, ya could mount them on the inside of the frame to move them up away from the rocks some. an i would make the lowers out of some pretty beef material like 2.25 inch .375 wall DOM

I was wanting to mount the lowers as high as I can and they will be some heavy a$$ ish! I still need to figure out how long I will need cause I dont really want any more then around 4"s of lift cause I want to keep is low.

do ya have a 4 inch lift in it right now? if so ya could just use a piece of tape, tape oneside to the backside of ur knuckle, then pull the tape out an stick it to the side of ur framerail where the "link"(piece of tape) is near parellel with the ground, this will give ya ur best performin susp. when doin a radius arm setup though, the length aint all that important because it will always bind against itself at some point. an if ya make em too long, they are weakend serverly...i would think somewhere around 36" would be in the ballpark from some other rigs that i have seen this done on. if ya want flex an got some time an a little more $$$, ya could do a three link, which would offer better flex, the problem is ya have to make sure ya set up a three link properly so it takes a little more time. One question, is this gonna be a DD?

If u mount the upper ends too high up they will have horilbly steep angles.

You want those links level at ride height.

Never give up good geometry for clearence.

CHOP SHOP said:

If u mount the upper ends too high up they will have horilbly steep angles.

You want those links level at ride height.

Never give up good geometry for clearence.

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so long upper arms too with just some seperation at the axle end?

I agree, i would just build the lowers out of some beef material.

I eventually do plan on linkin the front of my hoopty doin a radius arm setup too

boardbysled said:

so long upper arms too with just some seperation at the axle end?

I agree, i would just build the lowers out of some beef material.

I eventually do plan on linkin the front of my hoopty doin a radius arm setup too

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at least 7-10 inches at the axle end.

The three link is best if your going to drive it. Then it wont change the kingpin angle as it cycles.

CHOP SHOP said:

at least 7-10 inches at the axle end.

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I always wondered why the Calmini frontier/xterra kits didnt flex well...

for the sake of having a well balanced for on road, off road, flexibility, strength, ease of design and fabrication, and easy on the wallet, I would just go with a leaf sprung solid axle swap with a truck front axle. the fj axles-no matter what edition-are a can of worms for pickup applications. width issues, the lack of aftermarket steering options, and rear diff location. all of these issues have been covered here already.

i don't see the advantage of going with a radius arm setup when you solid axle swap. if you want articulation, a well built leaf sprung setup even with junkyard springs will provide plenty of it... especially if you use waggy springs, or 51" toyota rears up front. leaf springs are relatively stable on the street, as well as in off-camber situations.

if you really must go for the link and air shock setup, i wouldn't waste my time with a radius arm setup. if i were to spend all the money and all the effort, I would build a true dual triangulated 4-link setup.

not trying to knock your idea, man... because it's interesting and unique. just throwing in my two cents. :awesomework: nobody has really ran a radius arm setup on a SAS before.. so if you go through with it, i'll stay tuned to see how it turns out. good luck.:beer:

boardbysled said:

One question, is this gonna be a DD?

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This is not my DD but mostly for just trail use, however I do plan on driving it on the road cause I do not have a tow rig (but am looking for a fullsize bronco). The three link is what I will most likely go with cause of flex and I can build most to all of it myself. I only have a 3" body lift as is cause I have only had this truck for about two months and it came that way. I have bobbed it and am painting it now.

MIG'DHORSE said:

i don't see the advantage of going with a radius arm setup when you solid axle swap.

I would build a true dual triangulated 4-link setup.

nobody has really ran a radius arm setup on a SAS before..

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Dont get me wrong, I like leaf springs, but they dont quite cut the mustard for me. With a radius arm setup, just like any linked setup, ya would have no axle wrap and could have really good approach angle. Plus, leafs hate airtime an I like airtime:redneck:. And bumpy roads just suck in most leaf sprung rigs.

the problem is, there is no room to build a triangulated 4-link underneath the front of a rig without building it sky-high or doing a lot of cutting and fittin some stuff is some pretty tight spaces. Also, the geometry has to be just right or triangulated 4-links dont work. That is why many people do 3 links in the front.

Ford ran/runs a radius arm setup stock on Broncos/F150 and on there newer F350's i believe. Toyota landcruisers run radius arms front and i beleive in the rear too. I also believe Landrover does the same. Many people have ran the Calmini frontier/xterra kit. Hell, Rubicon Express makes a Radius arm long arm setup for JK's...http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0802_2007_jeep_wrangler_rubicon_suspension/index.html There is even a guy on this board that built a SAS Dakota using a radius arm setup...http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34666
its not an unproven suspension setup, and it is quite rugged and about as easy to setup as a leaf-sprung rig

As stated earlier though, they do cause some caster change throughout cycling, which is a con.

An, I agree, just use yota hilux axles, there is such a large aftermarket support for them its rediculous an they aren't that hard to find. Plus i guarentee if ya break out on the trail, someone around will have just the right toyota part to help get ya off the trail.:awesomework:

I do agree though that a leaf sprung toyota SAS is pretty easy to do. We have done 2 different SA yotas, only taking a weekend each. Hell, even with my goofy ass nissan, the leaf sprung SAS only took 2 weeks and there was lots of custom fabrication.

NotSoPC said:

This is not my DD

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thats good, means ur not on a time constraint like I was. I had to borrow a car to get back an forth from work while my truck was down, thats a big reason i went with leafs for right now.

Well I have plenty of time to do this build but I would like to get it done as fast as I can but not rush it too fast cause I would like to go wheel this thing as soon as I can. I like the I idea of the four but it would be too tall. I like the leafs cause they are simple but harsh down the trail and only flex so far (not to say they dont flex good). Running a radius set up would be the fast way and in using the right ends would give it all the flex I need for right now. At some point I do plan on linking the rear of the truck, but that is some time down the road.

Well ok I went out friday afternoon and got myself an axle well two. Front and rear with 4.30 gears and both drivelines for $350. I am going to run the gears in the rear to mach the front and the rest of the rear will be for spare parts on the trail. The front is in good shape and only needs the seals redone but I think I got a fair or good deal on it. Both have all the brakes and the front came with the calipers.:awesomework:

sweet.:awesomework: are you going to keep the stock rotors and everything on the front? that would be the simplest and cheapest way to go about it initially. if youre gonna run big tires though i would suggest vented fj60 rotors, and wheel spacers to match the rear and width, as well as using your IFS calipers and they are a free upgrade and fit around the vented discs. it's all really easy to bolt together and works out quite nicely.

Ya I plan on vented down the road but for now just the old stock ones on the axle. need to start pulling the stuff together for the swap so when I do it I can do it at once and not have to wait for crap (I have done that before on other stuff and it really sucks!). But I want to have it up and running for the snow this year:redneck:. Anyone know how well those 4.30 gears will turn
35's with the 22r-te and a 5spd?