Ls1 questions

So first this is mainly guys running tube chassis. Anybody having any issues with having the B+ on a Switched feed?

Second can anybody tell me why it needs an oil cooler on a normal wheeler?

With the b+ to the ecu switched and the ignition switched seperatley, the ecu has to relearn everytime it loses power. For me that means when i turn off my main disconnect it has to relearn, but if i just turn off my ignition it doesn't. It hasn't been an issue for me when it relearns.

You dont need an oil cooler, I think that was for the racecar approach the chassis originally took. But if its already done and not in the way i would just leave it, can't hurt.

Does it have an afermarket pan or remote oil filter? Trap doors in the pan are pretty important for any off-camber/steep applications. Usually aftermarket pans force you to relocate the filter to a remote mount, but you can add a trap door baffle to the stock one too.

When I get off my arse, I'll be pulling my stock pan with the aftermarket baffle kit and replacing it with a Tilden Motorsports offroad pan that has weighted doors...

http://tildenmotorsports.com/tilden-motorsports-pro-series-lsx-sheetmetal-oil-pans.html

Thanks clark that was my feeling and in the "factory" world I have seen that happen before(fuel trim reset and learned Iac).

I was pretty sure the cooler was for lots high rpm's aka race world. It does have a remote filter and an aftermarket pan. IMo its simply not needed. But here is the main reason I ask the fan has no thematic control so it will need to be manual. Matt who owns the rig is very specific he wants everything controlled. So the problem lies if its simply on all the time there will be an issue with the oil temps staying too low--thats guaranteed. So I can just not run the fan at all but removing it will simplify the whole works..

You thinking added cooling without the fan, but with the cooler? Or remove the cooler altogether?

zukkev said:

You thinking added cooling without the fan, but with the cooler? Or remove the cooler altogether?

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At the very least removing the fan. I have free rein on what needs to be done.:awesomework:

I'm with a previous post, if the cooler itself is not in the way, I'd say a little extra surface area for heat displacement couldn't hurt...Keep in mind (as you WELL know!:redneck, these LS motors run a factory external oil cooler...

zukkev said:

I'm with a previous post, if the cooler itself is not in the way, I'd say a little extra surface area for heat displacement couldn't hurt...Keep in mind (as you WELL know!:redneck, these LS motors run a factory external oil cooler...

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Yes/no. They run a heater/cooler so the oil temp is closer moderated to coolant temp.

For what it's worth. I don't know anyone i wheel with who has an oil cooler. So taking the fan off would be a great way to simplify things and still be more than adequate.

I would keep it if possible. Could you run the fan off the same switch as the radiator fan? That way it shouldn't be on all the time and if the water is hot the oil in theory would be also.

Clark said:

For what it's worth. I don't know anyone i wheel with who has an oil cooler. So taking the fan off would be a great way to simplify things and still be more than adequate.

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I have never seen any guys with the ls motor out here with a cooler. Down in cali running hot/fast I could see it.

shrek said:

I would keep it if possible. Could you run the fan off the same switch as the radiator fan? That way it shouldn't be on all the time and if the water is hot the oil in theory would be also.

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Thats an option I totally forgot about but I think it will still run the oil too cool for out here. I wanna say oil temp should be close to 300 degrees at operating temp if I remember the gm spec correctly.

the only reason I could see keeping it is for the extra volume I can run out of oil pressure if I sit on a steep climb Like Candy corn for to long... I am sure I could fix it with oil pan baffles...