Another lil something.....

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

The switch was in the pile of parts and I had already finished the brake hardlines

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

I got the guages installed into the dash.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Next I went ahead and got all the brake hard lines done.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

I got the gauges wired and connectors to ease in any needed tear down. I also had to modify the ecm top bracket to give room for the main power switch.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

One thing I had noticed was the vent on the th400 was gone. It was hard but I was able to see down the hole and found a good portion of the vent still in the trans. Took some work to dig it all out. At this point I had a few choices one being drilling and tapping to 1/8". I chose to take 1/4" hardline and filed it down to a interference fit and worked it into the trans.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Next it was back to more sheetmetal. I got the pieces made for at your feet on both sides. They turned out exactly how I was hoping.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Last thing left was belt mounts. Made the mounts then modified the pieces under the seats.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

So that completes the interior sheet metal. My original intention was to also enclose at the front of the trans. I spent a good few hours and could not come up with any good ideas that didn't look like complete ****.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

I went ahead and pulled the skid plate to mainly clean all the crap out of it. When I did so I found many of the stainless bolts not even tightened and I found out why. I ended up having to literally break many of them and had to drill a few heads off. I didn't find out why until I went to reinstall it with new metal bolts. Many of the holes did not line up perfect causing the threads to be galled since stainless is soft. I had to had work a bunch of the holes but got everything to go back on right.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Time to tear down and get the inside painted as best as possible.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Back together and got the arb lines ran and the trans/t-case vents ran to the back of the car.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

To put the seats in I had to make bolts that would have stops since I could not access the heads with the seats down in place with the belts.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Catch can for the trans is right behind the drivers seat..

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Some misc pics :bbbball:

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

So I searched high and low for a plug wire set for the ls motor that were cut to fit since the driver side was no where near in stock form. I found one set (I always prefer to use MSD wires) and got the plug wires all done.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

I was ready to see if it wire fire off. The motor didn't even make a full revolution and it fired right off and ran--after 5 seconds it threw the damn drive belt,

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

Time to check belt alignment and I have a nice lazer alignment tool for pulleys. I found the alt is about 3/8" off of being in line. One step forward 2 steps back

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

So I got the alt in alignment and made a new bracket--can ya tell what one is mine :redneck:

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

So with that I am going to also check the p/s pump alignment and fix the hokey tensioner.

So the layout is the alt was moved over to where the belt tensioner, the p/s pump is where the alt was and the tensioner is where ther p/s pump was. the tensioner was made to have the ribs of the belt ride against the idler. Well the ribs were filed or ground down and when the belt popped off it actually broke the edge off.

crash2 · Apr 22, 2016

So I did some digging and found gates make a 3" idler thats made to ride on the back side of the belt. I could not find the info regarding the offset or the hole size of the bearing so I went ahead and grabbed it.

Damn its absolutely perfect. So I have to tweek the p/s pump a tad and get a 1/4" longer belt and that will be done.