Finally....Da new rig..

PORTER · Jan 25, 2017

Amongst all the things I like about an S&N chassis, the lines are some of the best in the business. Saying that your a very capable wheeler Mike, but with this you will reach another level. Took me about 3 years to figuire out how to pilot the rig to its full potential. Saying that I look forward to getting out with you when both rigs are done.

Glenn · Jan 25, 2017

Needs more gussets!

Just kidding. Looks great.

crash2 · Jan 26, 2017

PORTER said:
Amongst all the things I like about an S&N chassis, the lines are some of the best in the business. Saying that your a very capable wheeler Mike, but with this you will reach another level. Took me about 3 years to figuire out how to pilot the rig to its full potential. Saying that I look forward to getting out with you when both rigs are done.

Ya will be a whole new experience :cheer:

Glenn said:
Needs more gussets!

Just kidding. Looks great.

:fawkdancesmiley: Thanks its coming along...

crash2 · Jan 26, 2017

I got the B pillar cross bracing done. Now thats done i can burn it all together.

ChrisStewart · Jan 26, 2017

Why is the b pillar cross bar scooted back off of that node?

crash2 · Jan 26, 2017

ChrisStewart said:
Why is the b pillar cross bar scooted back off of that node?

All the Bravo 2 chassis are that way to give a little more leg room and some more passenger protection by pushing ya back a hair and basically moving the B-pillar forward to your body. Still just as strong IMO.

I am going to add a small gusset once the seats are fitted..

ChrisStewart · Jan 26, 2017

Makes sense, I just never noticed until now. I wish my bar was back about 2-3" like that. I also wish I would have thrown a bend in my upper cross brace bars to compensate for a little extra head room.

crash2 · Jan 26, 2017

ChrisStewart said:
Makes sense, I just never noticed until now. I wish my bar was back about 2-3" like that. I also wish I would have thrown a bend in my upper cross brace bars to compensate for a little extra head room.

Thats how my toy was on the roof and why this one was raised so I can retain a flat roof.

dickwart · Jan 26, 2017

Don't know why you guys make such a big deal about leg and head room? Never been an issue here, sheesh... :fawkdancesmiley:

crash2 · Jan 26, 2017

dickwart said:
Don't know why you guys make such a big deal about leg and head room? Never been an issue here, sheesh... :fawkdancesmiley:

Well its not a big deal for hobbits

dickwart · Jan 26, 2017

crash said:
Well its not a big deal for hobbits

Jealous?

crash2 · Jan 29, 2017

dickwart said:
Jealous?

No-- I can drive without phone books :flipoff:

crash2 · Jan 29, 2017

Time to get the axles set at full compression. This is where I had to do math and draw some pictures--I didn't like it much and thank goodness for calculators,lol...

crash2 · Jan 29, 2017

I was able to get the rear into place with no issues.

My specs are 20" belly with 6" shock shaft. Now with tire squish it should put me a tad over 19"

crash2 · Jan 29, 2017

Now the front--its a little tighter and actually 1/8" clearance which is actually a little too close for my comfort.

crash2 · Jan 29, 2017

And its even VERY tight for the steering ram once I get it put into place.

I looked and will look again in the am but I am really edging towards cutting the from rails and raising the chassis up maybe 2". I will do some measuring but thats how its looking. Thats ok this is the time to make it all right.

I know both clark and Porter did the very same things on there Bravo 2 chassis and I can see why it was done.

crash2 · Jan 29, 2017

So since I knew where the rear axle sat and I knew the compressed length of the shocks it was time to do the mounting points for the rear shocks.

I had never liked how they did the Bravo chassis mounts and this was the simple solution to it--same way porter's is done.

I still have to do a couple gusset tubes at top once I get the tabs for the shocks done to make sure nothing interferes.