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Puttin yota axles in samurai?

rocker

Part time head turner/Full time jaw dropper
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
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Alexander City AL
I'm new to the samurai picked up a 88 the other day.I was wondering what all I need to put Toyota axles in.Do I need to move the t-case?If so what bracket?Your could I put a Toyota t-case in?I just need help know what all I need?

Thanks
 
Just run Samurai case and put Toyota axles in! I believe Sky Manufacturing sells a kit because I looked at doin this when I had my last Samurai
 
No need to move T-case. But you might want to move Axles, 80" of fun are not so fun with big tires.
 
I would run the Samurai case, upgrade the gears and mount. The yota axles are tough, but need to be upgraded if you are planning to run a bigger tire and lower gears. If this is the case, upgrade the knuckles, Longfield axles, gusset the knuckle balls, truss the tubes, and ARP studs. As far as the rear goes truss it and then leave it stock unless you want to disc brake it.
 
You mite want to stretch it a lil or you will have drive shaft problems... mainly u-joints where they at such an angle!!! Im doing the same swap in mine but im using the rock assualt rear offset axle to fix that problem. Hope it all holds together!! :driving:
 
I personally would not run a Toyota Case.

You'd pretty much have to run Toyota Drivetrain. Yes you could probably find a way to make it work but that doesn't mean it's right.

Just get a good T-case mount that holds the case together like ZOR Snatch or Mighty Kong, Gear it right, and don't drive stupid.
 
Go to lowrangeoffroad.com and buy the kit for the front end hav to do a little welding but its a complete kit for $125. Get the rear kit also for 50 come with new u bolt to flip them up and spring pads. get the adapters to run yota driveshafts they are $75 and you will never break a driveshafts
 
Re: Re: Re: Puttin yota axles in samurai?

1300zuk said:
No need to move T-case. But you might want to move Axles, 80" of fun are not so fun with big tires.
I like the stock wheelbase with my 33 cut boggers.the most expensive thing to me was the high steer.i made my own plates and bought some spring perches and bolted everthing up and welded on the perches.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 
That deal Customfab mentioned sounds damn good to me :dblthumb:

Ive ran a 1.3 ,stock 5 speed,stock sami case with a petroworks 4.89 gear set in it,good rocky road mount system, wagoneer 44s and 38 TSLs on a 100" for bout 7 years now.

The only reason I did not use yota axles was I got an old wagoneer for $150.00 when my zuk still had the stock **** under it ;D

OH ,,,,,and I just used high angle driveline dana 44 to toyota driveshaft pinoin flange adapters and sleeved some stock zuki driveshafts with steam pipe.
 

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Another good tip "must do" is to beef and gusset up the factory t-case frame mounting points no matter what aftermarket mounting system you use ,,,,,

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these are the arms from rocky road that I have used for years,,,,,

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also get this trans mount from TRAIL TOUGH,,,,

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Mounts are thru bolts with poly bushings cause them factory rubber t-case mounts will rip apart before quick :eek:
 
You checked on them thangs lately :dunno: ,,, theres like an 8 month "backorder" on em rite now ::) ,,,sometimes these aftermarket wiz bang part folks have to wait for months to get a certain amount of orders

built up for said wiz bang parts because they don,t actually "make" them theirselves and therefore have to farm out having them made to an outside source machine shop ,,wich is what big time aftermarket wiz bang

part companys do anyway,,,,but when your small time that just translates into EPIC FAIL wait times for yer customers.

If I gotta wait 8-10 months on something it better be a whole damn rig with tires on it and damn gas in it,,,,not one little wiz bang component :****:

But even if you can accuire a snatch mount system you still need to run a FULL SKID PLATE under it.

Because while it is a GREAT transfer case mounting system "just like the TRAIL TOUGH kong mount is" ,,it is still JUST a transfercase mounting system and NOT designed to support the ENTIRE weight of the rig

or take big hits repeatedly from rocks.

Thats why I have just ran ROCKY ROADS "kung foo grip" transfercase mounting system WITH a calmini FULL SKID PLATE under it for years because mounting yer transfercase and protecting the underside of a rig

really are two COMPLETLY different things ;D
 
With that being said I will be wheelin at Chocco this weekend WITHOUT a skidplate cause my old calmini one has finally bit the dust after over 12 years of good service and being taken off

countless times and being "BEAT" back into shape with a sledgehammer and reinstalled again only to get more distorted with each ride.

Because when I took it out from under the rig last weekend to once again "straighten" it out only to find that it was BEYOND repair this time :o

So rite now I am in the middle of designing MY OWN style of a HEAVY DUTY full belly skid and will not have it done by this weekend dammit,,,I will just have to be VERY carefull on trails like HELLS REVENGE etc. .

Because while the ROCKY ROAD kung fu grip transfercase mounting system will hold the case in place just fine,,,,it WILL NOT hold up the full weight of my zuk for to many hard hits :eek:
 
I Built a 88 a couple of years back with a Toyota front, and the trail gear off set rear. I have the stock t- case with a gear set. It has 37's on it now with 2'' wheel spacers front 3'' in the back. I haven't a single problem YET. By the way zukiscott love you ride looks killer.
 
You can run the zuk t-case and be fine. Best thing to do is find a 4 runner cv type drive shaft (could be just the opposite of that been a few years since I done it) and it will take care of you drive line angles. Go to zukicrawlers.com. And search for drive Toyota swaps and there should be a list of what the best driveshafts to use and year models to get them from.

I run stock Toyota axles welded with 35s, 6.5-1 gears in a zuk case and it dose great. And I beat it like it stole something from the tradeday. But a tcases mounting upgrade would be a must. I ripped the mounting ears off of mine last year.
 

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