Fox 2.0 air shocks

bobbylanddesigns · Nov 27, 2014

Anyone have any tuning secrets about Fox 2.0 air shocks?? I have them on all four corners of my newly finished Toyota truggy and I'm hating life on side hills and really not at all happy with them at all. I thought they were the way to go on lighter rides but I'm at a loss on any tuning other than adjusting the nitrogen in them to sit the stance at the height I like and give travel that i want but the body roll is terrible. I did install an anti-rock bar and it helped minimal with then lean. Ready to hang these on the wall, rob the bank and go coil-overs but that a lot of money to spend after what I've dropped on the air shocks. If there is ANY tuning that can be done to correct this naturally I would love to keep these and not spend the money for coil-overs. Thanks for any help on my problem.

June dog · Nov 27, 2014

If it's rolling with a anti rock bar there's more issues than just shock tuning.

TBItoy · Nov 27, 2014

pics of setup? ???

sastoy · Nov 27, 2014

I added 10ml of oil over factory and it made a lot of difference to me since I had to use less n2 to set my ride hight. Doesn't seem to push as bad. But I'm still leaves in the back too which I think helps keep things evened out. There radflo' and valved 45/85 btw

Grant117 · Nov 27, 2014

Are your shocks leaned in towards the center of the chassis? Pics?

bobbylanddesigns · Nov 27, 2014

Yes, a bit more on rear than the front. Seems I have more roll on the front, I thought that would be because more weight up front. Not having any luck at posting pics with my phone. Error says file too large. Thanks for the help!

bobbylanddesigns · Nov 27, 2014

Maybe this help, I don't have any at the time directly from the rear at finish build. Thanks

TBItoy · Nov 27, 2014

I'm gonna say you have a lot of weight on the front. Probably need to max out the oil capacity on the front shocks (fill the shocks with oil with them fully collapsed, then charge them). This will give you the highest ramp rate possible and require the least nitrogen pressure.

Other things that have been said to help with body roll is to plug the rebound bleed holes (if they are open), and/or increase rebound shims. This makes the shock extend a lot slower. May not work well for anything over slow speed crawling though, because the axle wont drop out fast enough

bobbylanddesigns · Nov 27, 2014

Thanks TBItoy, I do have a Chevy V6 up front. You made me feel better about at least it being a possibility in salvaging them. Great info. Thanks again!!

RustyC · Nov 27, 2014

I completely agree with Nick. By plugging the bleed holes in the piston and upping the rebound shims will help. The shocks can be tuned to what you want if your link suspension geometry is good.
You also may be able to shorten your arms on the swaybar to increase its rate. Making it stiffer.

Search around on the internet and you should find a ton of stuff on airshock tuning, rebuilding.

clemsonjeep · Nov 27, 2014

I know you're having issues with pics but if we could get some showing angles of shocks front and rear and from sides that should also let us see the links. It does appear that you've got the rear shocks mounted very close together at the chassis which will exaggerate body roll. Ideally you want the shocks as far out on the axle and chassis as possible. Obviously you'll have to avoid having them contact the tires at full stuff. If you can end up with the shocks being at a 90* angle to the axle at full stuff ththrall help too.

What length shocks are they and how much shaft do you have showing at ride height?

Coilovers take some tuning too...don't jump ship on the air shocks before you give them a whirl.

fordcontraption01 · Nov 27, 2014

I have air shox on the front of my junk and they seem to be ok for me and they unload going up steep hills and it does drive like a boat on water but I have hear you can take the shim stack and flip it over and the shock won't unload so fast. :dunno:

sastoy · Nov 27, 2014

Depending on your valving it would unload faster with the stack flipped. The bigger the number on the rebound side, the slower the shock droops out.

While everybody's here and talking about it, has anybody had to tune the torque side differently? Mine leans like a bitch to the passenger side always

infamous1 · Nov 27, 2014

Re:

I went to 7wt oil, max filled them just like TBItoy said and then set it up with minimal shaft showing. Sidehills and climbs without unloading but the ride is really choppy on the access roads.That being said I am going to King coilovers in the very near future.Mainly just due to breaking shrader valves off during rollovers and tunability.Mine are Fox 2.0 air now, 14"s up front and 16"s in the rear, both mounted at 75° inboard angles, 4 linked rear and radius arm style front.

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TBItoy · Nov 27, 2014

sastoy said:
Depending on your valving it would unload faster with the stack flipped. The bigger the number on the rebound side, the slower the shock droops out.

While everybody's here and talking about it, has anybody had to tune the torque side differently? Mine leans like a bitch to the passenger side always

I haven't ran air shocks on the back, but I see it as a definite tool to eliminate torque twist.

On RC crawlers tuning the shocks to counteract torque twist is pretty common.

Maybe start out by running more oil and less n2 in the pass rear shock.
Then maybe add some compression shim

sastoy · Nov 27, 2014

Im linked in the front, leaf rear. I was just thinking bump the n2 up 10-20 psi to keep it level but i guess shims or oil would be better

infamous1 · Nov 27, 2014

Re:

Nitro is just ride height, it was hard for me to get that in my head.

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sastoy · Nov 27, 2014

Right. The only problem im having is it always leans passenger. Engine torque is the only thing i can figure thats doin it

infamous1 · Nov 27, 2014

Re:

I gotcha

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bobbylanddesigns · Nov 28, 2014

I finally got a few pics and some measurments of my shock set-up on my Truugy. On the rear I have Fox 2.0 shocks with 16" travel, they are mounted at a 15* angle in toward the center of the chassis and 12* forward toward the cab and as far out on the axel as I could go, with 7" of shaft showing at ride height. The front has Fox 2.0 shocks with 14" travel, they are mounted straight over the axel and in 10* toward the center of the chassis and out as far out on the axel as I could go, with 4" of shaft showing at ride height. This puts the bottom of my frame at 22" & is right where I would like to keep it. Maybe you can tell something about the pics of it I have included. I really do appreciate everyone's help that ya'll have gave me!!! Thanks