Whats a good 4 link calculator

krackem · Dec 15, 2014

post it up eddy you aint hijacking I got No problem we all gotta learn this shut if we wanna build stuff that works

Nuts · Dec 15, 2014

Almost every time I've tried to use or seen someone use a link calculator hours were spent on the computer figuring out exactly how everything needs mounted , then you walk out to the shop and realize there is no possible way to put anything where the calculator says without totally redoing the rest of the vehicle. My advice which probably isn't worth ****, is to not stress hitting the numbers exactly and work towards a happy medium

zukimaster · Dec 15, 2014

^^ What he said! Don't stress, these are slow rock crawlers we got, not Pro Mod drag cars, so stay with the basic rules of the 4 link and it will be good.

krackem · Dec 15, 2014

Thanks for the info what I am gonna try to do I already got everything planned just wanted to see if it's gonna be ok or a **** storm that I got planned I no sacrifices will have to be made but I'd rather use the calc. and see what the numbers look like the n just hope for the best

payne97 · Dec 15, 2014

Post pictures of what you're trying to link
front or rear

Eddyj · Dec 15, 2014

This is my first link build also. I've researched this made my tabs and left some adjustment for the rear uppers on the frame. One set of numbers is max up other is mad down. I split the difference and put it in the middle.
I have forgotten most of info but if anyone sees anything out of whack let me know thanks.

Eddyj · Dec 15, 2014

All the way Down

krackem · Dec 15, 2014

Here ye go I'm gonna do some moc up tomorrow and take pics and measure for calc also redoing cage at the same time just doing links first I'll post parts I got for links tomorrow I'm fixing to go to bed

payne97 · Dec 16, 2014

That's easy straight lowers triangulated uppers I would take the time to notch the frame and put link mount smooth with a bottom of the frame
I bet Trail Gear has a good kit for that
36 to 40 lower
27 to 30 upper
before you tear it apart get measurements so it will go back together straight and square with the front as your setting 4 link need 2 look a setting the pinion height with the drive shaft you plan on running it will point up move than u think
PM me if u need help there's a lot of people with good information willing to help

TBItoy · Dec 16, 2014

Re:

I would tri the lowers.

LightBnDr · Dec 16, 2014

Re: Whats a good 4 link calculator

Once again I'm just an unknown dude here but I gotta throw my 2 cents.

I would seriously not over think your build with a calculator man. You have a full size rig with an existing frame and it will interfere in many places with the "perfect" picture a calculator will give you.

You don't have an ideal blank canvas to wrk with. Your best bet is to look at others link jobs, decide if it fits your needs and get under there and build it. Correct things as you go as well as learn.

You can spend a week of dickin with a calculator then realize it ain't gonna work for your rig. Shake n bake

I like your rig btw

The-Boss · Dec 16, 2014

I've learned a few things over the years building and watching rigs work. I used to go with the make it similar to a rig that works approach but will always use the calculator as a tool from now on. Once I understood the basic concepts of how the calculator worked and what the numbers meant it was easy to work with. Sometimes a small adjustment building can keep the suspension from trying to unload, rear steer when flexed or unacceptable wheel hop. I can tell a definite difference.

Pic below is one side of a crossmember I made building my buddy's rig. By bringing the lowers in from the frame where I had planned, it made a significant improvement in geometry. Had to go with this ladder design for driveshaft clearance. I just wanted to post a pic because you're not always limited on placement with a little work. Do it once and do it right. Worth a little extra material weight and work for me.

Fyi, if the material around the bolt holes look thin it's 3/8 plate.

krackem · Dec 19, 2014

Well I started to day just tacking my uppers in doing lowers tomorrow then entry it in the calculator to see what it says but here is some pics of my progress today sttill planing to do double triangulated

krackem · Dec 20, 2014

krackem · Dec 20, 2014

krackem · Dec 20, 2014

First time using the calculator first pic is uppers all the way down second is uppers all the way up. Don't know if this is good bad ok. What does anybody that understand s this think because it's just numbers to me right now till I learn what they mean . And thanks for input or advice as I greatly appreciate anybody's help thanks in advance fellas

TBItoy · Dec 20, 2014

If that is yor ride height, you'll need taller upper link mounts. Like put that bracket on top of a truss

rswords · Dec 20, 2014

AdamF said:
Almost every time I've tried to use or seen someone use a link calculator hours were spent on the computer figuring out exactly how everything needs mounted , then you walk out to the shop and realize there is no possible way to put anything where the calculator says without totally redoing the rest of the vehicle. My advice which probably isn't worth ****, is to not stress hitting the numbers exactly and work towards a happy medium

This is very true. I spent my time using the 4 link on my lap top at the truck. Allowed me to put in numbers that would actually work on the truck. Found the best combo of "good numbers" and what actually fits.

rswords · Dec 20, 2014

krackem said:
First time using the calculator first pic is uppers all the way down second is uppers all the way up. Don't know if this is good bad ok. What does anybody that understand s this think because it's just numbers to me right now till I learn what they mean . And thanks for input or advice as I greatly appreciate anybody's help thanks in advance fellas

I just went through all this with my 4Link on my truck. Went from not having a clue, A RuffStuff kit (like yours) and a tape measure. You need to get your upper axle mount higher. I used a Sky Manufacturing truss. Also I'd try and get the anti squat numbers in the center hole around 70%, that will give you some play higher and lower. Just watch you roll steer.

This is Skys truss with a RuffStuff Rear truss on the back.