New project problems

gubni · Jan 26, 2015

I recently had a local builder come and talk to me about my buggy. It had a long list of problem with it such as 18" coilovers with about 6" of travel because the front driveshaft would bind if it drooped any more. There were many other things I didn't like about the overall design of the chassis. He looked over all my problems and said the best way to fix it would be to build a new chassis. We agreed on a price of $7000 to make it turn key and 100% ready to go. To make sure there were no problems I insisted that he take it out and test it before I came to get it. He sent me video proving it was drivable and said he found no problems. This is not a bash the builder thread as he has offered to make it right. I am looking for ideas on what needs to be done to fix the problems. The biggest problem is the same front driveshaft problem is still there as when they got it even though it's a new chassis. I don't have pics of that at the moment. Here's two things that seem odd to me. The lower link brackets seem long and fragile. The bolt is too short also, but that's an easy fix. The rear radiator hose seems a little much to me also. What do you think?

clemsonjeep · Jan 26, 2015

Depending on what the deal was with your links the mounts might have been a band aid of sorts. What I mean is...if those are the links from the previous setup being used on the new rig and you didn't want to mess with cutting them up then in order to get the wheelbase and the chassis design you were after then the mounts might be all that would work. Without knowing the details there's no way to really know.

Do they look "fragile"...no. Do they look "beefy"...maybe not. From the angle it's shown...I might plate the top of it and run a tube at a 45* or so up to the chassis to provide more support.

Radiator hose... Well if it were me building that setup I would have tried to get the tube closer to the radiator and use a shorter 90* to make the connection. Will what you show work...yes. Is there anything wrong with it...just the aesthetics of it if you really want to break it down that far.

Where's the pics of the finished product?

gubni · Jan 26, 2015

The wheelbase was 113. I was happy with that. It is now closer to 116. I would have been ok with him building new links. MY concern is if I land on them will they hold up, bend, or brake from the tubing? The only complete pictures have the builders banner in it. I will take some new pics soon.

clemsonjeep · Jan 26, 2015

Ok...they appear to be 1/4" plate which is good. Can't tell from the pic if it's supported from the other side to the chassis, but like I said above...if it were mine I would probably try to support them vertically.

As they sit I would only be concerned with them trying to rip themselves off of the crossmember with the amount of leverage they have on those welds.

bjeep · Jan 26, 2015

Looks like ___________ posted pictures of it. In the other thread.

Removed name per OP request.
But you can find it here.

http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=28913.50

Beerj · Jan 26, 2015

When the driveshaft binds, is the pinion pointing down? From what i can see in that pic it looks like the upper link is very short compared to the lower.

wannabe · Jan 26, 2015

Would it not fix the rad issue to turn it around the other way?

wannabe · Jan 26, 2015

And I just clicked the link to the orgin thread and just shook my head when j found out who built it. Damnit man.

al1tonyota · Jan 26, 2015

snoball · Jan 26, 2015

How far does it drop out before it binds? 18" coil over is hard to use all the travel without binding and such. If it drops out quite a bit I bet you could get a shorter travel shock and just redo some shock mounts. 18s are way to long anyway.

rock mafia · Jan 26, 2015

gubni said:
We agreed on a price of $7000 to make it turn key and 100% ready to go.

What do you think?

There's your problem.

Jduck · Jan 26, 2015

What's up with the Mohawk roof with 2' of head room?

Jep72m · Jan 26, 2015

Re:

Did they paint it or did you?

pholmann · Jan 27, 2015

Why would you start a thread before getting it back from the builder after it being fixed? How did you think this thread was going to goconsidering the rzr thread and how recent it was/is. The sensible thing to do would have been take it back with your list of dislikes and concerns and let them fix it before starting another torch and pitchfork thread. If you went to get it afterward and the things were not fixed or were botched, then that is when you do that if your that kind of person. This thread was destined to be an angry mob thread from the start. Just my opinion.

rocfun · Jan 27, 2015

A serious question:
You said the builder came and looked at your buggy and said the only way to fix it was to build a new chassis. And one of the main problems was the drive shaft binding.
New builder builds an all new chassis to fix the issues. But the same drive shaft problem is still there? Can it be fixed this time without a new chassis?

matth_85 · Jan 27, 2015

Assuming your talking the front axle driveshaft issue? What axle, Chevy 60? What joints and style of shaft are you running?

From my experience with at LP front axle in order to keep the upper joint from binding (while running a 1350 joint) you have to use the offset joint as well as clearance the yoke some. This was with a 2 piece shaft.

As far as the link mounts. Whats already been said holds true. It looks as they tried to re-use the original links and make them work for the current rig. Will it work? Yes... Will it cause an issue? Maybe... Is it the best way to do it? No.

mckeddie · Jan 27, 2015

When is it binding? While cycling through suspension fron side to side, or with the whole suspension unloaded/drooped? Is it a 1or 2 piece shaft?

865yota · Jan 28, 2015

Main reason for new chassis was not the drive line it was because last builder but welded the A and B piller with no sleeves.Im working with shawn he is a great customer and I will take care of him.Thanks

drivermod · Jan 28, 2015

As others said, it's going to hard to use more than about 12-14" of travel up front with a 2-piece shaft and a LP 60. I wouldn't ever build a buggy with 18" shocks up front unless I got a smoking deal on them. I don't see the link mounts and coolant hose as big deals. That's not to say I wouldn't have done them differently though. The lower link bolt that doesn't even come through the nut is inexcusable unless the bold just wasn't threaded in all the way.

bsfor · Jan 29, 2015

$7000 turnkey and your complaining about a radiator hose and a short bolt. I guess im gonna be a **** but I ran into you a couple years ago after you picked up the KOH speck buggy and rode Harlan. I agree there are problems but you get what you pay for. Same thing i said when I looked at you're KOH buggy a couple years ago. I felt bad about your buggy but remember thinking, when you told me the price you paid, I thought no way could you get a KOH buggy for 4 times that price. but seems to be a recurring theme? maybe you should save and spent the money on a proper buggy if that's what you want before bashing a budget builder. You're a nice guy but you need to be realistic.