HELP Quick welding question.

Eddyj · Mar 4, 2015

Can I cut this and reweld it with a standard mig? Cheap ag ram from tsc.

stuftmunky2k · Mar 4, 2015

Might be the glare from the paint but it looks like cast to me

wont work · Mar 4, 2015

Not if you want it to him hold under any kind of pressure.
You said it yourself cheap which usually is junk cast when you want to weld it and it hold.

Chilkat · Mar 4, 2015

I myself would not want to rely on welded cast for my steering ram. Seems like a lot of people weld to their dana knuckles which are cast, but I bet the cast is of higher quality than that ram. Just an idea, but make that piece out of mild steel however you want it, you have all the measurements right there.

TBItoy · Mar 4, 2015

Re:

If you don't have any machining capability, get a nut that will thread on the shaft, weld up a clevis/tabs or whatever attachment you need and weld it to the nut. Split the nut with a cutoff wheel and fab it into a pinch nut (like that cast clevis)

Rokcrler · Mar 4, 2015

Re:

I have one of those ends I'll give you.
I like machining the rod for a heim

yankster · Mar 4, 2015

If it's cast steel you can weld it, like a axle center section. If cast iron it won't hold. Hit it with a coarse file and see if it makes shiny shavings (steel) or blackish powder (cast iron).

halcat · Mar 4, 2015

Aii this, can I weld this, can I weld that. You can weld anything but the crack of dawn, with the right rods and skills. The question is the project worth the trouble. That part is not worth it. A good steel part is your best bet. Welding cast steel brings to much carbon to the weld and makes the area around the weld to brittle. You can preheat and post heat , but there you go, a lot of trouble for what you get. And the problem is, the original part isn't strong enough to begin with.
My .02. Please no hate here, just a comment.

Eddyj · Mar 4, 2015

Thanks for the replies. I did not cut it. I will get a nut and heim or something eventually. After squeezing the ram as far as I could to one side it was still about an inch to long. I came up with a horrible ideal to fix it I'll post pics shortly. :

TBItoy · Mar 4, 2015

Re:

I've drilled and tapped the end of the rod for a heim joint

Eddyj · Mar 5, 2015

So the problem was when turn fully the clue is on the ram would hit the steering arm on the axle. It would clear it if the tie rod didn't rotate down any. I wasn't going to chance the tie rod rotating down while riding and not notice it, because if I turn to sharply it would hit the steering arm and rip something off. Probably the tie rod or heim.
So instead of getting a shorter ram or adapting this one and doing the job correctly I came up with this. It keeps the tie for from rotating down.

So what's the verdict, good ideal or I'm I going to kill everyone on the trail because nobody else does it this way?

TBItoy · Mar 5, 2015

Wobble stopper.

Looks legit. I'd run it.

fordcontraption01 · Mar 5, 2015

Need pics of the ram hitting whatever it's hitting

Chilkat · Mar 5, 2015

Too simple, rebuild the whole damn truck :Joc:

Eddyj · Mar 5, 2015

It's hitting the arm extending from the knuckle at full turn. If the tie rod rotated down.

fordcontraption01 · Mar 5, 2015

What you got going on will work. But without that little rode you welded on was it getting locked up on the knuckle or was to just hitting it? My front cylinder used to rub the tie rod which was 2x2 square tube and the clevis pin would get into the pinion break when it would rotate like your is doing and look like you had a grinder under it at times but eventually all the rubbing parts clearanced themselves. You wouldn't believe the bottom of the ram which I'm still useing lol :****:

Eddyj · Mar 5, 2015

I'm in the process of building it now. ( half an inch off-budget rockwell build) Never ran it. At first I just clearenced it and it would slide over the top, but if the tie rod went down I'm pretty sure it would have binded.