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Rockwells make your sac swell!

It's tacked into place and is not rubbing. I would have went ahead and welded it but when I seen those relief cuts offset the other way in the diff it just had me second guessing myself.
 
The official word from BTF was if it don't hit weld it up.
The home made one was on the rear non-steer. I didn't want to drop extra cash on a non-steer axle. I hope to add rear steer shortly.
 
Ok got a newb question. This is my axle seal retainer correct? I'm getting ready for 2" shafts. There are no seals left in my axle so before I started to beat on these I just wanted to make sure it was supposed to come out.
 

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Yes, it comes out. Sometimes you have to take the entire axle apart and stick a bar through from the other side to pound it out. The 2" kit will come with new ones.
 
patooyee said:
Yes, it comes out. Sometimes you have to take the entire axle apart and stick a bar through from the other side to pound it out. The 2" kit will come with new ones.

Thxs JJ ! ....just wanted to make sure.
 
1tonyj said:
Ha...I should change it to outtamoneyYJ after all I'm putting into these axles :****:

Well at least once you're done you won't have to worry about the axles any more.
 
1tonyj said:
I'll be curious to see where the weak link moves too.

My weak link is my spine now. :)

Edit: That's after presumably eliminating my previous weak link, which was my tires, by getting SX's.
 
So if a guy was running rear steer and has 1 long u-joint shaft and 1 long birfield shaft, both stock, which would last longer in the rear? I'm thinking birfield in the rear, but this is my first set and want a second,third, fourth opinion. :drinkers:
 
1tonyj said:
How many of you guys have broken stock rockwell axle joints? Just curious.

2

Broke around 7 shafts between the front and rear before swapping over to the chromo 16 spline ouverson shafts. No more breakage after that.
 
fordcontraption01 said:
The burfield one will **** the bed first and tear the hell out of the closed knuckle sometimes completely rendering the housing useless :****:
any pics of said damage I would like to see this
 
fordcontraption01 said:
The burfield one will **** the bed first and tear the hell out of the closed knuckle sometimes completely rendering the housing useless :****:
I'm not trying to be a ****, but are you speaking from personal experience or just hear say? Everything I've seen or read has pointed towards the birfield being stronger.
 
My buddy had one under an f150 with 42s and the thing clicked since he had it and it finally blew apart and he had no choice but to keep driving it and all the broken **** ended up chewing the hell out of the housing and seal retainer was gone it chewed down the welds on the kingpins also. He had u joint shafts to go back in so he said **** it lets put it back together we had to die grind some of the inner housing back to smith it some. No I'm not any kind of machinist nor was he but we wheel our **** and have to do what we can ourselves to keep our **** going. So yes it can **** up the housing but I guess with enough money and a good machinist I guess it can be fixed. But no there was no pics of said damage but I personally have broken countless rear axles,blew the caps of the bull gear and almost ****ed up the housing because it had to be drove out of tellico no other option and I have a shitload of Brocken u joint shafts and I can take pics of all that ****. I ripped all 12 spindle bolts out of the rear knuckle on hellivator and broke the stub shaft and twisted the inner splines all at the same time. But I have yet to break an actual joint in one I did run one for a year with no needle bearings in it and it clicked when it was steered but the inner broke befor the joint so they must be fairly tuff.
 
Jesus you're hard on stuff! Maybe I'll put it in the front. Just trying to figure out which way will keep me going the longest or until I can scrape up money for chromos
 
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