14 bolt front build thread and tech help

Virtually all the aftermarket gauge companies make speedometers that will read directly off of those sensors ... have you never wondered how fast you were really going? Or what your wheel speed was climbing a hill?

cdemart2 said:

The yard didn't unplug my ABS sensors when they pulled my axle from the truck so the wires are ripped. I'm just going to cut them at the sensor and leave them in.

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patooyee said:

Virtually all the aftermarket gauge companies make speedometers that will read directly off of those sensors ... have you never wondered how fast you were really going? Or what your wheel speed was climbing a hill?

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That's pretty cool, didn't know that but I will most likely just cut the wires flush and leave the factory sensor bolted in.

Cutting the wire at the bearing will keep anything from getting in the bearing and looking clean.
or install a set of these and be able to keep the bearing greased.

(http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-abs-grease-able-block-off-fitting/)

RustyC said:

Cutting the wire at the bearing will keep anything from getting in the bearing and looking clean.
or install a set of these and be able to keep the bearing greased.

(http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-abs-grease-able-block-off-fitting/)

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Hmmm... I'm currently running just the sensor with the wire cutoff, but those are nice. May have to pick up a set. :smoke:

RustyC said:

Cutting the wire at the bearing will keep anything from getting in the bearing and looking clean.
or install a set of these and be able to keep the bearing greased.

(http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-abs-grease-able-block-off-fitting/)

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That is nifty! So how often should you grease a bearing designed not to be serviced? Is there a noticeable benefit on an offroad rig that sees minimal mileage?

redneckengineered said:

That is nifty! So how often should you grease a bearing designed not to be serviced? Is there a noticeable benefit on an offroad rig that sees minimal mileage?

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I think the advantage comes more for the 99-04 ub's with their poor seal design.

I grease mine a couple times a year at most. I have to cross more mud and water than I like to get to the rocks and greasing the hubs pushes out any water or debris that gets in. The hubs are seals and not a lot gets in but I feel better knowing the bearings are not running dry.

I drilled and added zirc fittings to my dually's front unit bearings 10 years ago. 200,000 miles later they are still tight. I put 4 or 5 pumps of grease them every time I change brakes. My experience on a daily driver. The unit bearings are just about the only thing I have not replaced on the old Chrysler.

For $20/ea sounds like cheap insurance plus it will get rid of the stupid factory ABS fitting. I can grease them whenever I grease the RCVs. Can't hurt.

Re:

I wouldn't grease the 05+ bearings more than 1-2 pumps a year, if that. You don't want to blow the seals out of those bearings.

The old bearings had shitty seals that were more like single lip dust covers, so purging a little grease though them didn't really matter.

What's a good price on 4" .25 wall DOM these days? Calling around today.

This place seems very reasonable, all the steel joints around here had to order and would only sell me a full stick (approx 20').

http://www.discountsteel.com/items/DrawnOverMandrel_DOM_Steel_Round_Tube.cfm?item_id=200&size_no=35

Last thing for now, any opinion on the BTF lower kingpin kit?
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/dana-60-lower-kingpin-kit

redneckengineered said:

What's a good price on 4" .25 wall DOM these days? Calling around today.

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https://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx is where I got tubing for my axle. Didn't have to buy full sticks.

BTF lower kinpin kit looks very nice. I've had my eye on it for a while but just never pulled the trigger.

Following closely.

Did you decide what are you going to do for seals ? Crane Revolution adjusters ?

Just got back from a week long work trip in Dallas but had a lot of parts come in while I was gone. I'm just about ready to start making some sparks on this build instead of spending money.

Went ahead and order up the BTF lower kingpin kit. I needed the kingpin parts anyway and it is bling and beef, I figured they will be a nice addition to the Reid stuff. I also really liked the counter sunk bolts and zerk fitting for rock protection.
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/dana-60-lower-kingpin-kit

Been looking into seal solutions. Obviously the Crane revolution seals are an option. I also know some builders will machine the housing to take factory Dana 60 inner seals. This is only good for 35 spline but it got me curious. I got out the seal catalogs and did some digging. I found.

SKF 16315
inside diameter - 1.625"
outside diameter - 2.623"
width - .313"

Timken/National 450068
inside diameter - 1.718"
outside diameter - 2.623"
width - .5"

Now, those dimensions are virtually identical to a stock 60 inner axle seal but with a bigger shaft diameter. Major diameter of 40 spline is ~1.71". Branik told me they use the 450068 with their 40 spline stuff. I read on Pirate that Currie uses the SKF 16315 with their 40 spline stuff. I guess they profile the shafts down hence the smaller shaft diameter but that's just a guess. I wouldn't think it would matter as long as you specify the correct seal surface dimensions to the shaft builder. I'm still looking into it, but if I can get the housing machined to accept one of these seals and RCV is cool doing the right seal surface, that is what I will do.

I need hardware to attach the unit bearing to the knuckle. The "correct" kit is Dorman 917-514. That is studs and nuts, but damn they are proud of them. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-514-Wheel-Hub-Bolt/dp/B00HRSNSP2
Has anyone used grade 8 bolts or something cheaper? $86 for hardware is idiotic.

My tubing arrived. I settled on 4" OD 1/2" wall for a couple reasons. Yea it'll cost me a little in weight but it'll be bomb proof and I only have to retube one side. Service and pricing from discountsteel.com was great.

Been looking into steering solutions. Reid says they sent out specs to all the major high steer arm manufacturers but no one has anything available yet. I had Reid send me all the dimensions in PDF form. I got in contact with a guy from Pirate that saw my thread and is a programmer at an aerospace machine shop. It has been awesome working with him and I think we are going to knock out something cool. Goal is to have the arms line up with the factory tie rod location for double sheer strength, similar to the way the Artec arms are made. The models are done, and he's cutting them out of some cheap material for mockup. Once I get them mounted and verify no tweaks need to be made we'll cut them out of the good ****. Here's a teaser. Feel free to add input. They will be springless.

Sounds good. One thing though, make sure the arms work with your backspacing. I believe it was weaver that is making keyed arms but they don't line up with the factory location because it has clearance issues with some wheels.

Beerj said:

Sounds good. One thing though, make sure the arms work with your backspacing. I believe it was weaver that is making keyed arms but they don't line up with the factory location because it has clearance issues with some wheels.

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Yea, that's a good point. My wheels are 4" BS. It will be close but should clear based on the measurements I've taken.

Kind of unrelated to my build but Stanimal from Branik posted these to his Facebook. They are working on 1550 sized stuff. 40 spline and 1550 sized stuff is going to be the new normal before you know it :****:

Friday I spent some time unboxing everything and getting it all together to go over to Nick Sosebee at Sosebee Offroad who will be helping assemble this turd. I knew these parts were beef, but damn holding them in your hands really puts things in perspective. It makes the standard 60 stuff look like Dana 44 parts.