Anti-wrap bar tips??

Does anyone have any good tips or references to read about setting up
an Anti-wrap bar...i have looked and it seems to be all over the place
and its hard to find information that is more geared toward Off road
suspensions.

I am looking to install an anti-wrap bar on my Ftoy, but i have
EXTREMELY limited locations to mount one. I am trying to figure out
how much Force will be transferred in to the swing shackle side of the
setup...mainly because every place i am looking to mount the "shackle"
side of the anti-wrap bar seems to be a big question mark.

I really only have two locations that i could mount the "shackle" side;

1. The first location would be off of my battery box mount, which is
behind the passenger seat. The mount i built for this is made of 1x1
square tubing welded to the chassis, and braced at a 45 from the
bottom so the battery weight will not push the mount down. This
location would put the bar end about 6 inches past the spring eyes but
about the same distance from the end of the transfer case output
flange. It would be around 36 inches mounted at this location.
2. The second location would be on the transfer case/skid plate mount
(which i just BEEFED up. This would make the bar about 42 to 46
inches, but may come into contact with the battery mount depending on
the amount of travel under the compression of the suspension, a lot of
that would depend on how much the "swing shackle" mount places the
front of the anti-wrap bar away from the mounting location.

Having never messed with one of these systems it is hard for me to
know. I have read a few things that said the longer the better, and
some say to have something STRONG to mount the "swing shackle" end
to....but to me if that location moves on a shackle its purpose is to
let it move Freely and not let the system bind. And the Triangulation
from the Anti-wrap bar is what is doing the work by not letting the
pinion rotate upward under torque.

I have been looking at the kit that Ruffstuff sells, it seems to be a
good all in one package. Also Barnes 4x4 has one that looks good as
well.

Location #1



Location #2





View from rear axle toward the swing shackle location:




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2nd option looks better to me, not ideal but better. There is a lot of load on the shackle end of the bar. Possibly ripping the material from the battery mount. Somewhere close to the output shaft is better as well.
Maybe fab a rear cross member and tie in to that?

Only info I have to add is that I ran the RuffStuff kit on a 1/2 ton axle Cherokee(8.8 rear axle). It held up great but the .250 wall dedicated crossbar/shackle mount did end up slightly bending upward after about a year of use. Not horrible by any means but noticeable while under it doing a nut/bolt check. I do remember opting for the largest/thickest LOWER bar in the RuffStuff kit. I knew it would be beat to death.

I don't think it was the force exerted on it, but more so the beating and banging and awesome "ramp" usage for getting over stuff. The difference it made was awesome. It climbed so much better...and no more S-shaped or broken leaf springs.

Damn....can't believe I have 0 pix of that install. Only thing I really remember was mounting it as close to the pumpkin/diff as possible. That thing was such a good driveshaft saver too.

I can't find pictures of my old set up either, I know that ideally it should be on right side, something to do with rotational torque or something. That said mine wouldn't fit, so it was on the left, it still helped a **** ton. Make the mount on the shackle end beefy, there is a lot of force there. The lower tube catches hell on rock, and the stress where mine attached to the upper tube caused it to crack. We had to weld a piece of angle on it for a trail repair at Choccolocca. Repair was ugly, but it spread the stress out and never failed again.

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That's what I did as well...used a piece between the 2 tubes and it was unharmed. Just wished we'd done a "double tube" or something for the mount.

Interesting design.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/775194-totm-traction-bars-4.html

The more i keep looking at my situation, the more i think i might have to just fab a "NEW" cross member to mount the shackle side of the Anti-wrap bar to. That way it will be inline with the output of the Tcase.

Currently the driveshaft cover i built holds the rear inside seat tabs for both my driver and passenger seat, so if I build a cross member to hold the anti-wrap mount i will have to figure something out for the seat mounts, and driveshaft cover.

However, that may be the ONLY way I can Install an anti-wrap bar on this buggy correctly.

I just reworked that mount before we went to the Crawling for Reid event, but i guess if i have to rebuild it for an anti-wrap bar to work out it may have to be changed. I have a set of Ruffstuff anti-wrap spring perches that i am going to install when i get a chance, i wanted to get them on before that ride but i was not able to get all of the things redone before we left for that event. i am going to install them and see how they help.

Thanks for the replies so far guys

I also had those anti wrap perches installed for a little while before my anti wrap bar.

Before I was just using the stock Ford 8.8 spring mounts that were cut off the bottom and move to on top the axle. Very small.

The new perches did help a lot but once the anti wrap bar was on there it was almost like you had someone's hand pushing the vehicle up the hill... Especially on stair-stepped type rock ledges.

This is my latest version. It is on a 14 bolt so it's gonna be a little difficult to mount yours in the center but so far it is working much better than the old one that was mounted to the passenger side tube. It was as close to the diff as I could get it but it eventually spun the passenger side axle tube ever so slightly.

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