Custom buggy hauler

paradisepwoffrd · Jan 26, 2021

The Luke said:
Mine is an open center. I recently closed it up. The first time laying on the open center trying to work under the jeep was uncomfortable enough to make me finish out the center. It's so much nicer now. I also don't have to worry about my kiddos falling through the middle of the trailer now whenever they're up there playing while we're at camp.

What about putting expanded or grate down the center? It still is open to drips/cleaning but you can lay on it. You could have the panels remove/hinge to load spares or wood under the "deck".

I have a trailer that uses catwalk type grate for the deck. The trailer pulls like crap, but being able to tie small stuff down anywhere and crap falling through, keeps it around.

ridered3 · Jan 26, 2021

Waffle said:
I'm also considering copying this "frame extension" design (minus rub rails & pockets) that Diamond C offers on their LPX since the LPX & Moritz are nearly identical. I wish I could see it in person but I'm going to have to find other means to learn its structure. I think it's open underneath. View attachment 122158 View attachment 122159

Not seen a Diamond C in person, but this YouTube guy bought a trailer very similiar. Maybe one of these three videos will show the structure you are looking for?

Waffle · Jan 26, 2021

Thanks ridered3. The top video with the silver 20k shows exactly how they did it. It's formed diamond plate, open underneath & supported by formed channel outriggers.

The Luke · Jan 26, 2021

paradisepwoffrd said:
What about putting expanded or grate down the center? It still is open to drips/cleaning but you can lay on it. You could have the panels remove/hinge to load spares or wood under the "deck".

I have a trailer that uses catwalk type grate for the deck. The trailer pulls like crap, but being able to tie small stuff down anywhere and crap falling through, keeps it around.

Yea, I considered that. Previous owner(and potential builder of the trailer) put expanded metal in the bottom of some of the holes, but not all. At the time, I had a bunch of scrap wood laying around that I needed to burn. So I put it to use. Dual purpose project.

ridered3 · Jan 26, 2021

Waffle said:
Thanks ridered3. The top video with the silver 20k shows exactly how they did it. It's formed diamond plate, open underneath & supported by formed channel outriggers. View attachment 122185

Glad I was able to be of assistance. As soon as you mentioned the Diamond C I knew one of his videos may be what you were looking for.

CarolinaCrawler1 · Jan 27, 2021

paradisepwoffrd said:
I have a trailer that uses catwalk type grate for the deck.

I've always wanted to build a 2 car style bumper pull with this. It conveniently comes in 2ft widths...

Still think it would be lighter than the .125 diamond plate and necessary cross members. That stuff is so stout you could spread the cross members out quite a bit.

ridered3 · Feb 18, 2021

@Waffle after a few weeks of ownership, are you pleased with the Moritz? Also, what is your current plan on widening it?

Waffle · Feb 18, 2021

ridered3 said:
@Waffle after a few weeks of ownership, are you pleased with the Moritz? Also, what is your current plan on widening it?

Very very pleased! Especially since I bought it right before a 12% price increase. I paid $5100, but best price on a new one is now $5725 & some places are approaching $5900.
On the way home I was reminded why I like the torsion axles. Smooth & quiet towing, but it's sat since I bought it cause winter finally showed up.
I have all the materials to widen it and decided to make it simple. From the fender back I'm welding 3x2 .188 rect tube to the stake pockets & relocating the outer ramp bar brackets with 4" longer bars. This will give me a deck that's 88" wide. In front of the fender I'm using 3x2 .25 angle. I can do all this without screwing with the reflective stickers on the main beam.
The tongue to deck header plate is massive & will be the perfect place to mount a winch. No extra plating required, just drill 4 holes & done. Probably hide the battery in a box & mount it underneath for a cleaner look.
Looks like old man winter may take a break soon so I'm hoping to get to work on this thing when he does. I'll post details & pics when the time comes.

ridered3 · Feb 18, 2021

Waffle said:
Very very pleased! Especially since I bought it right before a 12% price increase. I paid $5100, but best price on a new one is now $5725 & some places are approaching $5900.
On the way home I was reminded why I like the torsion axles. Smooth & quiet towing, but it's sat since I bought it cause winter finally showed up.
I have all the materials to widen it and decided to make it simple. From the fender back I'm welding 3x2 .188 rect tube to the stake pockets & relocating the outer ramp bar brackets with 4" longer bars. This will give me a deck that's 88" wide. In front of the fender I'm using 3x2 .25 angle. I can do all this without screwing with the reflective stickers on the main beam.
The tongue to deck header plate is massive & will be the perfect place to mount a winch. No extra plating required, just drill 4 holes & done. Probably hide the battery in a box & mount it underneath for a cleaner look.
Looks like old man winter may take a break soon so I'm hoping to get to work on this thing when he does. I'll post details & pics when the time comes.

Soudns good all around. I figured with Ohio winters you'd had plenty of thinking time, but not much using/doing time.

Waffle · Apr 7, 2021

Waiting for the paint to dry and need to fab new mounting points out back since the tires block any access from the side. In my search I came across the same 5k recessed D-rings that my last 10k enclosed had and was shocked when I saw the (safe working load) listed as being just 1665 lbs. Damn!

Screenshot_20210407-150654_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20210407-150726_Samsung Internet.jpg

ridered3 · Apr 7, 2021

I did a shallow dive into d-rings awhile back and like you, was surprised by their ratings.

twentyfootdaredevil · Apr 7, 2021

I work with rigging daily. Those D rings and pretty much all rigging is under rated. Multiply that 1665 by 5x and you will be closer to breaking strength.

Waffle · Apr 7, 2021

The breaking strength is listed as 5k. Either way, I'm not comfortable having tie down points rated for 1/2 what the 2" straps are rated for.
Probably going to do something like a chain banjo eye (keyhole) like a rollback. I can buy the 3/8 plates and weld them in where I want to the lip of the rear 8" formed channel. Then it's just a matter of swapping my Macs ratchet hook with a short piece of G70.
This also gives me the option of ditching the ratched straps altogether, which I might cause my back doesn't like them anymore.

GLTHFJ60 · Apr 8, 2021

I'm going to run these in my enclosed:

https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-Anchors/Buyers-Products/3371901006.html

Bebop · Apr 8, 2021

Waffle said:
Waiting for the paint to dry and need to fab new mounting points out back since the tires block any access from the side. In my search I came across the same 5k recessed D-rings that my last 10k enclosed had and was shocked when I saw the (safe working load) listed as being just 1665 lbs. Damn!
View attachment 123110

If it's good 'nuf for Trophy Trucks, it'll be fine for you.

The-Boss · Apr 9, 2021

Bebop said:
If it's good 'nuf for Trophy Trucks, it'll be fine for you.

Looks like they said good enough about that exhaust that burnt a hole in the side of their truck too.

I have no idea if the exhaust did that but thought it was funny.

ridered3 · Apr 9, 2021

The-Boss said:
Looks like they said good enough about that exhaust that burnt a hole in the side of their truck too.

I have no idea if the exhaust did that but thought it was funny.

That seems to be a common occurrence (along with losing various chunks of body panels every single race) with the Trophy Trucks/T1's and the Specs Trophy Trucks/T2's.

paradisepwoffrd · Apr 9, 2021

ridered3 said:
That seems to be a common occurrence (along with losing various chunks of body panels every single race) with the Trophy Trucks/T1's and the Specs Trophy Trucks/T2's.

That melted spot seems to have the same height and size as the tire they are running. My guess is that isn't a coincidence.

My bet is the holding force of those D-rings come from the bolts/screws holding it down. Could likely drill them to a larger size and gain some capacity.

Waffle · Apr 9, 2021

Finished the widening part. Total deck width is 88" which matches my tread width, so no guessing about how far to one side as I'm loading. Out back I ended up using 3x2x3/16 tube down the side and 3/8 plate to gusset/relocate the outer ramp brackets. I left the inner brackets alone and fabbed longer ramp rods. To widen the front of the deck I just used 3x2x1/4 angle and only up to a bit forward of where the tire sits. The angle part looks better in person tbh.
Decided to partially remove 6 of the center boards up to where the front axle sits, but left enough to have a full deck up front.
Removed 75ft of board which cuts off about 235lbs by itself. Pretty sure there's about 80lbs in steel added which brings the total weight down to 2,765lbs. So far.....

Markrobinson · Apr 10, 2021

Waffle said:
Finished the widening part. Total deck width is 88" which matches my tread width, so no guessing about how far to one side as I'm loading. Out back I ended up using 3x2x3/16 tube down the side and 3/8 plate to gusset/relocate the outer ramp brackets. I left the inner brackets alone and fabbed longer ramp rods. To widen the front of the deck I just used 3x2x1/4 angle and only up to a bit forward of where the tire sits. The angle part looks better in person tbh.
Decided to partially remove 6 of the center boards up to where the front axle sits, but left enough to have a full deck up front.
Removed 75ft of board which cuts off about 235lbs by itself. Pretty sure there's about 80lbs in steel added which brings the total weight down to 2,765lbs. So far.....
View attachment 123180 View attachment 123181

Nice work!