14 bolt steer axle conversion

brushtrooper · Aug 10, 2021

Who makes the best kit to convert a 14 bolt to steer axle? I am new to this conversion, I just picked one up that is shaved. I have a buggy that I want to upgrade to rear steer.

Bebop · Aug 10, 2021

What outers do you have in front ?
Buy the same to put in the rear so you have the same parts everywhere.

TBItoy · Aug 11, 2021

Bebop said:
What outers do you have in front ?
Buy the same to put in the rear so you have the same parts everywhere.

I wouldn't do that unless it has big knuckles in the front.
I wouldn't even consider building a rear steer 14 bolt limited to 1480 size joints.

Unless maybe it's a really light weight rig, and I happened to have the parts laying around...

brushtrooper · Aug 14, 2021

It is a light weight buggy. Right now I have yota FJ80 front and 8.8 rear. I just bought 2 05+F250 D-60's. I also have a shaved 14 bolt. I plan to put one D60 in front and I am not sure whats best for the rear. I could install the D60 in rear in stock form and the rear driveshaft will be at angle. A buddy bought a buggy setup like this and has no issues with trail only use. I could center the D60 diff and run it like that or try to covert the 14 bolt to rear steer. I am open to suggestions/advice

TBItoy · Aug 15, 2021

Budget is going to determine what you do.

Stick a bone stock SD60 in the rear with a welded diff and stock gear/shafts will cost very little.

At the other end of the spectrum is get the shaved 14B center re-tubed and put the SD60 outers on it and some 40 spline inner shafts with either 1550 40 spline/direct spline u joints shafts, or Big Bell RCVs.

I would not build a centered rear high pinion Dana 60 rear axle, because you'll still need at least custom inner shafts, and high pinion 60 rears don't have the best track record (no reason to spend the same amount of $ for something that isn't as strong)

We also have no inclination as to how much of this you'd be doing yourself, or paying a shop to do.

Beerj · Aug 15, 2021

TBItoy said:
Budget is going to determine what you do.

Stick a bone stock SD60 in the rear with a welded diff and stock gear/shafts will cost very little.

Wouldn't it spin the wrong way?

TBItoy · Aug 15, 2021

Beerj said:
Wouldn't it spin the wrong way?

Can't tell if serious?

no.

Beerj · Aug 15, 2021

TBItoy said:
Can't tell if serious?

no.

I remember someone arguing a while back saying you would have to flip the housing upside-down or else it would spin backwards. Was just kidding around.

On a serious note, I'd buy some new sd60 C's and throw them on the 14 bolt with the old 60 knuckles and hubs. Reuse the stubs and just have custom inners made, or just a full set of custom 1550 shafts.

All that said, if the 8.8 was surviving in there then an sd60 would probably be fine if your driveshaft works out.

pennsylvaniaboy · Aug 17, 2021

TBItoy said:
Budget is going to determine what you do.

Stick a bone stock SD60 in the rear with a welded diff and stock gear/shafts will cost very little.

At the other end of the spectrum is get the shaved 14B center re-tubed and put the SD60 outers on it and some 40 spline inner shafts with either 1550 40 spline/direct spline u joints shafts, or Big Bell RCVs.

I would not build a centered rear high pinion Dana 60 rear axle, because you'll still need at least custom inner shafts, and high pinion 60 rears don't have the best track record (no reason to spend the same amount of $ for something that isn't as strong)

Would a 1550 axled super duty 60 live in the rear of a buggy? I always thought high pinion in the rear was "weaker"

TBItoy · Aug 17, 2021

pennsylvaniaboy said:
Would a 1550 axled super duty 60 live in the rear of a buggy? I always thought high pinion in the rear was "weaker"

Maybe, maybe not.

It is weaker, same as a low pinion in the front. Plus the added stress of the pushing the entire weight of the rig up obstacles. The main issue is you're trying to pull the ring gear with the "wrong" side of the teeth and it's trying to drag the pinion into the diff, relying on the small outer pinion bearing to hold all the power.

I'd say it 100% depends on the specs of the buggy and how you drive it. I'd do it in a low power light weight rig. Especially since it wouldn't cost much of anything if you were just gonna weld the diff and run stock gears.

Dude just said "I have a buggy", which apparently light weight and has an FJ80 front and 8.8 rear (weird axle combo).

CarolinaCrawler1 · Aug 17, 2021

There's a guy on NC4X4 ran a rear hp60 for years in a 22ret buggy on 39" reds. He was NOT very easy on it, and it was built as a typical hp60 would be (chromo shafts, good gears and lockers). It seemed to hold up well.

TBItoy · Aug 17, 2021

That's exactly the rig that I would consider a hp60 rear a viable option.

brushtrooper · Aug 18, 2021

My buggy is powered by a GM 3.8 supercharged v6 and the dana 300 has 4:1 gears. I found this video on youtube and he was hammering on it pretty hard. I am not the WOT type and prefer to go slow if I can. I am not sure of the weight but it is light.

ridered3 · Aug 19, 2021

brushtrooper said:
My buggy is powered by a GM 3.8 supercharged v6 and the dana 300 has 4:1 gears. I found this video on youtube and he was hammering on it pretty hard. I am not the WOT type and prefer to go slow if I can. I am not sure of the weight but it is light.

I was wondering where that buggy had ended up.

brushtrooper · Aug 19, 2021

ridered3 said:
I was wondering where that buggy had ended up.

Whats the history on it?

ridered3 · Aug 19, 2021

brushtrooper said:
Whats the history on it?

Don't know the history on it other than seeing it pass by a couple of times a various offroad parks over the years etc.

brushtrooper · Aug 19, 2021

The guy I got it from said he went to Georgia to buy it. It is in south Texas now. I went over backwards not long ago and bent the front pretty good on a hard landing but its fixed and ready for more.