oh yeah
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Question for those with CTM/Yukon joints
- Thread starter Waffle
- Start date
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
How much does a 40 spline inner/outer + chromo 1550 U-joint axle setup run?
Depends. Branik legacy direct drive will cost $3400 with CTM joints.
Then there's the cheap forged stuff with cut to length shafts from ECGS and others. Pretty sure it's all Yukon.
Outers $285 ea
Inners $380 ea
CTM joint $425 ea
32 to 40 spline adapter $100 ea
TOTAL $2380
And that's basically it. Rhodes diff folded. CTM quit doing shafts years ago. IMS has a direct drive 1550 outer for $585 ea. These were the ones that Rhodes used to sell under their own nsme
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TBItoy
Well-Known Member
I haven't kept up with it, I figured it was either Yukon or Foote axles that places like ECGS and BKOR were selling.
Looks like Branik 1550 joints are about $100 cheaper than CTMs
Looks like Branik 1550 joints are about $100 cheaper than CTMs
SkinnyPedalRacing
Well-Known Member
Warranties are hard to beat, but it sucks to break something that ends the weekend / trip. If you go to a 40 spline 4340 or 300m, what is your next weak point? Drive shafts or axle shafts are easier fuses in comparison to gears or a transfer case output. I understand not having something to weak that it breaks without putting it through its pace.
What are you breaking now?
What are you breaking now?
collinmaune
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2013
- Messages
- 282
It sounds dumb but I really don't understand the whole 1550 joint growth lately. Why not just step up to a rockwell size joint? We know a 40 spline 300m shaft is stronger than a 1480 why mess with a 1550. I'm not an engineer but I figured branik and a few other companies would go straight to Rockwell size stuff.
I take warranties with a bit of skepticism regardless of what they say. Tommy Boy taught me that, lol.
For me it's not about moving the breaking to another part, but making the weakest link as strong or stronger than my wheeling style. It's about building an entire package that survives years of use without letting me down on the trail. Take my rear ProRock80 for example. Built it in 2015 and since then I've never even taken the diff cover off. 6 years (and still going) of worry free fun and no need to buy or carry spare parts. I'd gladly pay more (if I can) if it brings my reliability up to a point where breaking is a freak occurrence. I've grown tired of babying this KP D60. Time to move on.
I've got 1410 driveshafts. No clue which will give first once I build this axle, but I'm hoping it's the driveshafts.
For me it's not about moving the breaking to another part, but making the weakest link as strong or stronger than my wheeling style. It's about building an entire package that survives years of use without letting me down on the trail. Take my rear ProRock80 for example. Built it in 2015 and since then I've never even taken the diff cover off. 6 years (and still going) of worry free fun and no need to buy or carry spare parts. I'd gladly pay more (if I can) if it brings my reliability up to a point where breaking is a freak occurrence. I've grown tired of babying this KP D60. Time to move on.
I've got 1410 driveshafts. No clue which will give first once I build this axle, but I'm hoping it's the driveshafts.
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I think I'm going with the Crane Magnum knuckle kit and unit bearing adapters. Being able to buy a complete kit from one shop with everything you need with free shipping is nice. I also like that I can weld the caliper bracket anywhere I'd like and I can install/remove the big bells with the boot on.
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Ouverson responded to my email and I wanted to provide an update. For 2 custom inners + cp750n violator joints + soda can direct drive stubs + UB covers is $3550. The outer stubs alone are $750 ea and in stock. I asked if they're 4340 or 300m but didn't get an answer, so 4340 is probably the safe bet. He didn't specify a price difference for 40/47 spline.
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wizzo
Well-Known Member
Gotta have C's and knuckles to fit them. Reid based their super 60 stuff off of 05+ 250/350 C's and knuckles. Which are made to work with 1550. Yes big bell RCV stuff fits but it's tight!
Spidertrax been built around 1480 for years.
You don't want to build parts people aren't sure if they can use. Ouverson is the only one I can think of building around Rockwell joints for obvious reasons.
Get the Branik 1550 joint and 300m legacy steering shafts and let me know when you break them. I'd love to see it.
Found this diagram for joint size reference
wizzo
Well-Known Member
I don't understand why anyone building anything like we are discussing would even care about a warranty past manufacturer defects.
We're literally taking these rigs and smashing them into rocks with 43" tires, v8 engines, etc. Something is going to break at some point along the way, it's just part of what we are doing. Buy the right parts for the job.
nightcrawler4x4
Well-Known Member
Does anyone have a side by side picture of 1550 and a Rockwell joint?
wizzo
Well-Known Member
Maybe someone can shed some light on this, regarding 05+ outer stubs. Forged outers (be it 35 or 40) use a C-clip to lock the stub in place. Direct drive Branik and Ouverson all use a puck and bolt just like Spidertrax. RCV direct drive however shows a grease fitting on the end and I've never seen a pic or description of anything used to prevent the stub from walking. Is there a thin washer supplied or needed? Thoughts?
Found a pic of it.
paradisepwoffrd
Well-Known Member
Ever any issues with breaking off that grease fitting, or do you take it out and put in a plug once greased?
MonnlightRacing77
When in Doubt Throttle Out
Wish dynatrac would sell parts again. Those prorock 80s are sweet
