New steering- is this gonna work?

Pat · Aug 31, 2007

I was just looking for expert opinions of these steering links I just fabbed myself. I wish I had made the tubes a little longer- 2" on the drag link and 3" on the tie rod. There's a lot of thread showing, but they are threaded in the depth of the fittings, about 1.5". I ran Liberty trails and drove around town all week and it seems to be working fine, is it worth redoing?

cheesemaker · Aug 31, 2007

Looks good!

SUPAFLY · Aug 31, 2007

Thats a lot of thread!

Boomer · Aug 31, 2007

SUPAFLY said:
Thats a lot of thread!

My thought as well...

Pat · Aug 31, 2007

Should I redo or wait till I have problems? I'm guessing the strength factor is only gonna be an issue wheelin or is it downright unsafe?

NotMatt · Aug 31, 2007

Steering is nothing to mess around with in my book for a street driven rig. If you don't feel completely comfortable with them, I'd re-do them.

crash2 · Aug 31, 2007

Live by this "always over kill your steering"

aircrawler · Aug 31, 2007

So what u r saying is that your INSTINCT is saying you messed up> go with that! even though i have seen worse on the road and on the trail from certain so called fab guys mentioning no names here "BUILT TO BEAT OFFRROAD" and they did hold up under both conditions. You have no real latteral loads here so pray when you hit it on something!! AND OVER BUILD NEXT TIME!! not bigger better!

darius · Aug 31, 2007

The thread shank on those rod end's is something like 4 or 5 inches, I would be more scared of the welded adapter's than the thread showing.

GRW · Aug 31, 2007

Along with the exposed thread issue/question.
I realize I am looking at a picture on a computer screen......but is there an arc in the that last picture? Was it manufactured that way, or is it bent?

Pat · Aug 31, 2007

aircrawler said:
So what u r saying is that your INSTINCT is saying you messed up> go with that! even though i have seen worse on the road and on the trail from certain so called fab guys mentioning no names here "BUILT TO BEAT OFFRROAD" and they did hold up under both conditions. You have no real latteral loads here so pray when you hit it on something!! AND OVER BUILD NEXT TIME!! not bigger better!

Thanks, thats good advice and a little peace of mind.

darius said:
The thread shank on those rod end's is something like 4 or 5 inches, I would be more scared of the welded adapter's than the thread showing.

This was my thought also. There is only going to be 1.5" of thread friction weather the rod ends go through a ways or not right?

GRW said:
Along with the exposed thread issue/question.
I realize I am looking at a picture on a computer screen......but is there an arc in the that last picture? Was it manufactured that way, or is it bent?

The picture exaggerates it but it is an odd shape and was made that way, probably for some geometric reason.

Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I think I'll keep running it for now (at least through the weekend), keep a close eye on things and see how it does. I've got parts to redo it later but I'll take my time and make it perfect :awesomework:

Binder · Aug 31, 2007

As long as you have full engagement of the threads inside your adpter then you're fine. I don't know your welding skills so I can't comment on that, it looks OK in the picture.

GRNTACO · Aug 31, 2007

There is way to much thread showing for my tastes.

Dubshot · Sep 1, 2007

I as well go with the theres alot of thread showing but if you have full engagement of the threads (like binder said) it shouldnt be too bad.. If you scared to brake it either fix it while its in your garage or build one thats longer and carry it around as a spare? I personally dont trust my fab skills for my steering (since I have none).. I feel more secure buying drage lings and tie rods.. Go find some local little mud hole and pound it see what happens.. Better there than couple hours away..:fawkdancesmiley:

kennyw · Sep 1, 2007

Having exposed threads is not a design flaw... its called adjustment. Those rod ends are designed to have excess thread. As long as you have full thread engagement on the threaded portion of the tube end your as strong as you can get. You will bend or break the steering rods at the welds way before the threaded portion ever becomes over stressed.

Your weakest link is actually where the crossover rod end goes into the steering rod end on the passenger side. There isn't anything you can do to improve it other than a steering arm on the knuckle with 2 holes to mount both arms rather than tieing one arm into the other.

Pat · Mar 15, 2008

Update

Here's how this steering worked out for me. I bended the crap out of it.
Not exactly sure when either :eeek:
I don't think the way I set it up was to blame so much as my driving...
I have this problem with ramming into rocks:haha: :haha: :haha:

I think a high crossover steering would work better so thats what I'm thinking of doing next. :awesomework:

pokey · Mar 15, 2008

that looks more like you are hitting the stops to soon :eeek: what kind of a rig is this on? Can you move your steering box forward so your pittman arm is in front of the tie rod instead of on top of it. The x over might be the best way if you cant move the box. Personaly I would find shorter TREs and make the tubes longer as well.

Pat · Mar 15, 2008

Its a YJ with a Waggy Dana44 front axle and grand cherokee pitman arm.
The pitman arm has also been a problem, making contact with the tie rod.
Will a high steer/ crossover setup fix the geometry so I don't have to move the steering box?

pokey · Mar 15, 2008

keeping your box where it is a high steer conversion will help with the angle on the drag ling and will allow you to not have to use such a dropped pittman arm. I moved the box on mine forward and level with the frame as well as doing the high steer. This allows the use of a straight pittman arm for better geometry and more strength.