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10.5 rear question

Grommit327

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Previous set of gears had some issues and upon teardown figured out that some of the carrier shims had slipped out of place alowing the ring gear to move away from the pinion. When setting up the new gears there are two thick shims plus whatever various thinner shims per side. None of these shims are captured by the carrier bearing caps. So whats to keep the shims from falling out of place again? We jammed as much preload in there as possible but it seems like over time that there is the possibility of them coming out. Unfortunately I wasn't there for the whole setup so I didn't see everything but saw what happened to the old setup...something just doesn't seem right. Anybody have a clue whats going on with this :wtf:
 
10.5 what?

is it a dana70? If so, someone screwed up the bearing setup the first time... the shims are supposed to be under the bearings on that one..

is it a 14 bolt? shouldnt have shims on that one... it has screw adjusters so it shouldnt have shims...

What other 10.5s are out there?
 
Uh, I think he meant 8.5. It's a Tacoma. Joe, they're half moons? Not full round shims? I'm not familiar with the differences in the 8.5 diffs.
 
skrause said:
Uh, I think he meant 8.5. It's a Tacoma. Joe, they're half moons? Not full round shims? I'm not familiar with the differences in the 8.5 diffs.
On the tacoma(8") I had the same setup stock but the carrier bearing caps covered the shims. When I regeared I received shims that go under the bearings.

On this setup it always had the shims on the outside of the bearings the owner thinks(it's on it's third set of gears because he liked the Genuine gear warranty:rolleyes:) and thats the type of shims Randy's provides
 
Grommit327 said:
None of the above...Sterling 10.5...basically the same as a 10.25
Oh. :redneck: Figured you were talking about your truck, couldn't figure out what this had to do with that carrier you cracked.
 
mudracer said:
oh, that 10.5

tell me, why CANT you upgrade to a 14 bolt?
Not my truck...and he already has an ARB in it and gears so I doubt he wants to upgrade (although that would be a wise decision :D)

I am just trying to figure out what the hell is supposed to keep the shims in place...just carrier bearing pressure?
 
Even on a sterling axle the shims are to be installed between the carrier bearing and the carrier. (thats under the inner bearing race) Most of the time a combination of the factory shims exchanged from one side to the other will give you the correct backlash. A bearing puller will need to be used each time a shim change is needed. The only axle that I have ever seen that uses shims on the outside of the bearings is a dana 35. If you get stuck, post up.
 
Tacoma's use shims on the outside from the factory...and this guy is pretty sure that is the way it was when he originally tore it down (original gears)

He put it back together and is going to run it but I can't see how the shims are going to stay in there on their own. Makes me wonder now if he got the caps switched around last time and possibly they are wider on one side of the cap bolts then the other...if that makes sense.
 
Grommit327 said:
Previous set of gears had some issues and upon teardown figured out that some of the carrier shims had slipped out of place alowing the ring gear to move away from the pinion. When setting up the new gears there are two thick shims plus whatever various thinner shims per side. None of these shims are captured by the carrier bearing caps. So whats to keep the shims from falling out of place again? We jammed as much preload in there as possible but it seems like over time that there is the possibility of them coming out. Unfortunately I wasn't there for the whole setup so I didn't see everything but saw what happened to the old setup...something just doesn't seem right. Anybody have a clue whats going on with this :wtf:


i came across this very same situation awhile back. this is not a factory setup. the thin shims are not to be left in the case. if the were and came out, IMO, there was not enough preload achieved. what ford wants you to do is achieve proper setup, measure thickness and purchase one of about 50 different select fit shims (the thick ones). you probably won't be able to get the correct preload without a case spreader as it's so hard to install the case with a shitload of shims on the outside of the bearing.

Lincolnlock said:
Even on a sterling axle the shims are to be installed between the carrier bearing and the carrier. (thats under the inner bearing race)



while this is a good guess, it's not true....you would never be able to capture a service shim under the carrier bearing as they are so large. although that makes me think why would'nt it be possible to use a dana 60/70 shim under the bearing as they both accept a 1.5 inch axle. bearing i.d. would have to be compared.
 
Thank you for that tidbit of info... I wasnt sure on the sterling... I prefer the 60/70/80 or 14 bolt, so i wasnt aware of all the other info.
 
Well bringing this back from the dead. My cousin is preppin for trip to Shasta and decided to pull the rear cover. Low and behold the driver's side shims were halfway worked out. I think we're going to try to get some shims that will fit under the bearings from six states. Any reason why this wouldn't work?
 
hmmm... lets think about it.....
round shim... hole in the middle.... shaft gos thru it....
so the shafts arnt in it? that would be a bigger concern...
 
hmmm... lets think about it.....
round shim... hole in the middle.... shaft gos thru it....
so the shafts arnt in it? that would be a bigger concern...
OK smartass :flipoff:

The shims are the size of the outer race so they can move alot before they hit the shaft. By the time they move halfway out the carrier can deflect quite a bit side to side
 

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