Patriot Customs
Well-Known Member
Can someone please give me some direction on the best way to remove the spindles? Is the weld on the front side of the square brake mount the only one you have to worry about cutting to break it loose?
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
14-bolt spindle removal
- Thread starter Patriot Customs
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RustyC
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- Dec 15, 2010
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I did this about a year and a half ago so details are fuzzy. The axle tube was cut off with a bandsaw then put in a lathe to cut to length. I know there is still probably 1" of 14 bolt tube in the picture. I had an internal sleeve made to mate the 9" tube and 14 bolt tube/spindle together for strength and alignment.
If I remember right you may not be able to see the friction weld between the tube/spindle on a factory 14 bolt. If you cut the tube a few inches away from the brake bracket you can then look inside and see the friction weld line.
The fiction weld is near the arrow if I remember right.
If I remember right you may not be able to see the friction weld between the tube/spindle on a factory 14 bolt. If you cut the tube a few inches away from the brake bracket you can then look inside and see the friction weld line.
The fiction weld is near the arrow if I remember right.
Patriot Customs
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help RustyC. For whatever reason, I was thinking that the spindles were already slugged from the factory and I could cut a weld and then beat them out! And like you described, there was a fusion weld right about where you pointed. Now I have to figure out how to weld in the slug and spindle that I received from EOR. I have Plowboy's old axle housings and I am removing the rear spindles to place on a new housing. The way things were welded together previously doesn't make much sense to me from a strength point of view, but then again, I never seen him have a rear spindle fall off.
RustyC
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- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
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Not sure the details of the Plowboy axles and the truss work, but it may be easier to get a new 14 bolt housing and rebuild the truss onto it verses replacing a full float spindle.
Another option is to go with a weld on flange and use bolt on front spindles. That was in the future is you damage a spindle a new one can be bolted in place. That is if a 14 bolt hub will work on a Dana 60 spindle. I'm not positive it will.
I wish I had gone that route on my 9" stuff and will if I changed to a fabricated housing.
Here is the weld on flange. (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FLANGE60.html)
Another option is to go with a weld on flange and use bolt on front spindles. That was in the future is you damage a spindle a new one can be bolted in place. That is if a 14 bolt hub will work on a Dana 60 spindle. I'm not positive it will.
I wish I had gone that route on my 9" stuff and will if I changed to a fabricated housing.
Here is the weld on flange. (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FLANGE60.html)
Patriot Customs
Well-Known Member
Hey Rusty, I do have a new housing that I am converting everything over to. I have to use the Spindles from his axle because they are dana 60 front spindles that use a drive flange. I have all of the hubs, axles and 40-spline carriers to go with them.
Patriot Customs
Well-Known Member
Here is a picture of the new slug along with spindle. I cut the old slug and spindle out to see how they were welded together and it looks as if they were just butt-welded. The slug has a shelf on it that is the same OD as the axle tube, so it doesn't allow it to slide in past that point. It blows my mind that this held up without breaking. I just had the new spindle and slug machined for a press fit so that they will interlock and slide into the tube up until the point of the spindle. I will post a picture as soon as I get them back to the shop.
Before machining
Before machining
Patriot Customs
Well-Known Member
Here is a picture of the Spindle after it has been machined and the slug pressed in. Next I will get this put on one of my pipe positioners and blast some metal-core at it. The interlock should make it much more stronger now, rather than butt-welding it. Not sure if that's how they were done before, but I'm not chancing that! This stuff is all fairly new to me but I like to think I know the difference between right and wrong. I am still open for any pointers or pictures of how this can be done differently.
