1tons for 35's and a 4banger????

Welderd · May 22, 2008

Let me run my plan by you guys to see if there's a problem in my thinking

Military 1 tons - D60 front, 14 bolt rear with detroit

front build:
D60 front had spring centers of 31.5
say my yota springs are 27" center to center (need to measure tonight)
Take 4.5" out of the long side
chromo shafts and joints
weld front diff
grind calipers to 15" wheels
drive flanges
shave it and put a good cover on
high steer arms
freshen up bearings and seals

rear build:
shorten long side to use a short shaft
that'll take it from 67 to 61" WMS
disk brakes
shave it and put a good cover on

so front will be 64.5" WMS and rear will be 61"
I'll get some 15" 8 lug rims and hope to be under 80" wide

Beat the piss out of it the rest of this season - selling all my yota stuff to recoup some money
then this winter I'll throw an extra leaf or two in and get some 37's and 17's

Anything I'm overlooking?
Yes I know it'll be an anchor but it won't break
Will 64.5" WMS and a 35x12.50 be under 80" wide outside to outside?

wngrog · May 22, 2008

Are you breaking rears?

I would say go with the fronts and ad some spacers in the rear if you have to.

One boat anchor at a time.

Welderd · May 22, 2008

as soon as I post this I'll screw myself

I've had good luck with the rears but not R&P's

To do the front only I'd have to convert to 6 lug and that would add lots of cost, right?
and then when I do the rear there's no way to get a rear 6lug on a 14bolt

eventually I want an ARB rear and that's not really a good option with a 9"

Bones · May 22, 2008

toy spring perch up front is 29"

blacksheep10 · May 22, 2008

I knew you would know.
I think shortening the short side to 85+ ford length for 2 inches and the long side to custom length 4 " shorter is the ticket. shave that bish. high steer it, rock out.

Welderd · May 22, 2008

that's what I came up with too

toy perch width = 29"
chevy D60 perch width = 31.5"

so to get 64" WMS (just picking a number here)
I'd take 2.5" out of the long side
then 2.5 / 2 out of each side?
to use the stock cast perch
so 3.75 from the long and 1.25 from the short?

Can we move the perch outboard on the pass side and take more off the long side?
springs are what 2.5" wide - move the pass spring perch 2.5" toward knuckle and then take that out of the long side?

Would it really be worth messing with the short side for 1-2"??

Bones · May 23, 2008

I'd run the axle offset a couple inches before I'd **** with that shortside. It's trail only **** it. Whitebrowithafro on PBB years ago ran his dodge I think full width and it was just off set, kept the 29" hanger and used the stock cast perch on the diff and put a new perch on the long side. reason for this? He knew links were in his future.

FWIW on my old rig I had a waggy front and to keep it from rubbing the springs I had to get 1.5" spacers to make it 64" even and it was also 31.5' perch width. So 64 is as narrow as I'd go.

techtafab · May 23, 2008

i know where a 85 toy ex cab that is allready set up like this (tons cut down) for sale here in KC
with new 44'' boggers and a nasty SBC. was built for a mud truck the body is the cleanest 85 toy
that i have ever seen (the guy who built it is a kick ass painter) but it has no title so it's a parts truck
or offroad truck $5k

Bones · May 23, 2008

techtafab said:
i know where a 85 toy ex cab that is allready set up like this (tons cut down) for sale here in KC
with new 44'' boggers and a nasty SBC. was built for a mud truck the body is the cleanest 85 toy
that i have ever seen (the guy who built it is a kick ass painter) but it has no title so it's a parts truck
or offroad truck $5k

Title and VIN plates are easy to come by

Welderd · May 23, 2008

I really don't want to be much wider than 80" outside of tire to outside of tire. No matter what tires I use

It is a rule for mod stock at this point - dumb one but it's there. I'm not too worried about it for that but After this year I'll get some 37's and run legends class and I'll probably run Moroc with it next year.

I do have a box truck that I need to fit in too - it's probably 96" inside width but the room to walk around is nice.

Links probably are in the future but I'd like to end up ~78-80" wide on 37-40's

right now, stock yota 55.5" plus IFS hubs (+3") plus 1.5" wheel spacers so I'm ~ 62" WMS right now and I think 76" OS to OS so I think I could live with 62-66" WMS, just need to decide the best route (ie cheapest) Maybe 66" and just take 3" off long side and have it a bit off center, not like anything else is square anyway

Welderd · May 23, 2008

Although I do like the idea of takin the short side down to ford width

Also I'm getting the axles machined for the 50 degrees of steering and would like to be able to use that in the future with links

Bones · May 23, 2008

Are you running 2" BS'ed wheels on the Toyota axle and will you need shallow offset to get 15's on the 60? That's about what will determine what WMS you need to get the width you are looking for. Answer that, then you can decide which side(s) you want to cut down and how much. Might be able to get lucky and get an off the shelf inner to boot :woody:

Man that is a lot of spacers n **** on that Toyota front. It's gotta steer like ass.

Welderd · May 23, 2008

I have std bs wheels 3.75"-4"

steers pretty good - I'm the same as someone with 2" bs and wheel spacers. This is the first time I've had a problem with knuckle studs but it's not cool and it was expected.

I can get brackets to run 3/4ton calipers and rotors on a D60 and the rear 14bolt to fit a 15" rim no problem (right?)
that's what I got on my buggy - the brake parts are cheaper and common on the whole thing then.

I'm trying to get in touch with maxxis for some 35x12.50x17's trepadors - don't know if they are the gay tread pattern or not but then I'd have 17's for the 37-40s and not have to worry about the rims later.

I want to stick with a std to heavily bs wheel - I think most 17x9's come ~4-5" bs

Bones · May 23, 2008

17's would be ideal and no changes needed to brake brakets or grinding calipers. Deep backspacing is a plus in my book.

blacksheep10 · May 23, 2008

chris, while the C is off you can roll the pinion up and maintain caster, and shorten the tube to 85+ ford inner length. that nets 1.875" right there. It also gets your center section out from under the engine. any more than that, and I believe that you'll have rub problems. We then whack 4.375" out of the long side and only have 1 custom axle. turn C at same time.
look at it this way. bolt the right spring into the stock perch. now, you have to move the left side in 2.5" to make it fit. instead of moving that perch, you cut that 2.5" out of the tube at the housing (not for real, in theory). now it fits centered. now, you want more, so you take the 1.875 out of the short side, but its outside of the perch, so your pumpkin stays in the same place and this comes off at the C. You have to match that to keep it centered, so you also take 1.875 out of the long side at the C. Now you have a long side that needs to be shorter by 2.5+1.875 is 4.375. You ned 4.375+1.875, or 6.25. getting you to a wms of 63.25". perfect because the rear is 67-6= 61wms with 2 short side stock shafts. Only 1 custom shaft to buy.

blacksheep10 · May 23, 2008

Bones said:
17's would be ideal and no changes needed to brake brakets or grinding calipers. Deep backspacing is a plus in my book.

the 3/4 ton brakes are a weight saver, and those calipers core out pretty high for money recoup. I only see backspacing neccessary to protect your lockout by.5" or so and to clear springs when at full lock. now, if its gonna hit the springs, leave the axle wide and run the wheels backspaced in. nothing changes. springs still in the same place. backspace is easy to play with, axle narrowing is hard to play with, it all ends up the same when it is a 29" spring and a 80" out to out. buy the wheels and narrow the axles or narrow the axles and buy the wheels, it'll all end up the same.

Welderd · May 23, 2008

I'm likin the 63.25" wide

I'll limit the steering for now - heck I'm used to yota steering! and I've only got a puny 6" hydro assist ram. i do have a few extra orbitals for this winter then too, all I'll need is a ram

I'm gonna get on the guy for the axles. Said he's 3 weeks out from getting them but he's getting 4 sets, some rocks and t-cases all from texas somewhere. Maybe I can just talk him out of all of it and go get it sooner myself? anyone want some stuff?

blacksheep10 · May 23, 2008

I know of someone that needs a 60 front, but he needs it by 1 week from today before I head out.

Welderd · May 28, 2008

well after looking at similarly built rigs - most keep em wider

I'm now leaning towards getting these built and installing them after the season is over and I can go to 37's or 40's

so I'm thinking now
remove 2-2.5" from the long side to make the perches work
shave em both and run em

should save some time and $$ and with proper bs wheels I'll only be 4-5" wider

My next question is about CUCV axles - I've been reading lately that they have limited slips in the front 60 - true or not?

Bones · May 28, 2008

rockwild said:
well after looking at similarly built rigs - most keep em wider

I'm now leaning towards getting these built and installing them after the season is over and I can go to 37's or 40's

so I'm thinking now
remove 2-2.5" from the long side to make the perches work
shave em both and run em

should save some time and $$ and with proper bs wheels I'll only be 4-5" wider

My next question is about CUCV axles - I've been reading lately that they have limited slips in the front 60 - true or not?