Ok so now that I got my exhaust done I hear more alot of whats going on. Whenever I am driving and shifting through gears my throttle seems to decrease to a certain point but stays at a high idle basiaclly like I have my foot on the gas a little when im shifting and pressing in the clutch..
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
22re idle sticking?
- Thread starter Dubshot
- Start date
1300 ish?
my 4runner does that...when the connector for the tps comes loose. the little clip is missing. so sometimes it vibrates off. i know everytime when it does, the idle hangs at about 1300 or so. i just plug it back in, and the idle drops back to where its supposed to be.
or, a vacuum leak.
ToyZuki
Well-Known Member
I 'm noticing the same with mine. exept it'll run around 2500 between gears. When I push in the clutch it'll actually climb a little then drop back to 110ish like normal.
Where exacally is the tps? Its possible it could be a vacume leak but have not been able to find it.. yeah let me know if you find that out and ill do the same.. im trying to find the idle sensor if there is one.. ill get a chilton for it tomorrow moy 79-88 or whatever it is doesnt tell me crap..
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on the side of the throttle body. in this pic, its directly left of the upper rad hose clap. (ignore the red circle, i stole the pic)
altho, that looks like a different style connector than mine has...
this is what mine looks like
Trainwreckinseattle
mr tool shed
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High idle and having a lope after coming to a stop are VERY common 22RE problems especially in the 89+ injection system.
I have run across this at least a dozen times. One of these 4 things is usually to blame. The first two are most common. The loping will usually go away if you manualy force the throttle plate closed and is caused by the throttle plate being held slightly open by carbon and dirt build up.
1: Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly and has slack in it with the throttle plate closed (no throttle) This is commonly mis adjusted after a motor swap or major servicing.
2: Make sure the throttle plate isn't gummed up with carbon, dirt, and debris. It will keep the throttle plate from closing properly. A lot of times you can actually feel the throttle sticking with your foot. Usually the first time you go to give it gas in the morning.
3: That main idle screw that is circled in RED should be taken out and make sure the rubber O ring is good and the tip is clean. I usaully brush it with a brass brush.
4: Vacuum leaks.
To fix:
1: Adjust throttle cable untill a small amount of slack is achieved.
2: Remove the main hose that comes from the MAF/filter box. Soak down a rag with carburator cleaner or EFI cleaner and scrub the inside of the intake throttle plate and throttle body until clean. Don't spray cleaner in there. The TPS is not sealed and you can damage it. Manually open the throttle and clean everything you can get to.
3: While the main idle screw is out start up the truck and spray down into the hole a good amount. Smear the O ring with silicone grease or spit and re-install.
4: spraying a small amount of carburator cleaner around the intake can highlight a vacuum leak. If the idle jumps up suddenly you have found the area of the leak.
I have run across this at least a dozen times. One of these 4 things is usually to blame. The first two are most common. The loping will usually go away if you manualy force the throttle plate closed and is caused by the throttle plate being held slightly open by carbon and dirt build up.
1: Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly and has slack in it with the throttle plate closed (no throttle) This is commonly mis adjusted after a motor swap or major servicing.
2: Make sure the throttle plate isn't gummed up with carbon, dirt, and debris. It will keep the throttle plate from closing properly. A lot of times you can actually feel the throttle sticking with your foot. Usually the first time you go to give it gas in the morning.
3: That main idle screw that is circled in RED should be taken out and make sure the rubber O ring is good and the tip is clean. I usaully brush it with a brass brush.
4: Vacuum leaks.
To fix:
1: Adjust throttle cable untill a small amount of slack is achieved.
2: Remove the main hose that comes from the MAF/filter box. Soak down a rag with carburator cleaner or EFI cleaner and scrub the inside of the intake throttle plate and throttle body until clean. Don't spray cleaner in there. The TPS is not sealed and you can damage it. Manually open the throttle and clean everything you can get to.
3: While the main idle screw is out start up the truck and spray down into the hole a good amount. Smear the O ring with silicone grease or spit and re-install.
4: spraying a small amount of carburator cleaner around the intake can highlight a vacuum leak. If the idle jumps up suddenly you have found the area of the leak.
Trainwreckinseattle
mr tool shed
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22RE's only have an Idle Air Controll Valve. It is for cold start idle up. And most don't function at all. LOL But again it only makes you not have high idle when cold.
All idle function is vacuum controlled on 22RE's. There are also solenoids that control A/C idle up, Power steering idle up, etc one of these might be malfunctioning as well. These are the Red, blue, or grey things with vacuum lines that are on top of the valve cover. But those are usually fine unless they have been totally messed with by some hack.
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Or removed completely and their wires clipped back at the 'puter... :redneck:
Good advice, don't forget a ground issue... I've had the engine ground back through the throttle cable, it made it hard to push at times then it'd stick. Took me awhile to figure that one out.
Also check the.... well I can't think of the "proper" name but it's the slow bleed air canister on the bottom side of the throttle body. It causes the idle to drop slowly rather than falling off quickly. I've seen them get gummed up and hold high idle randomly. It can also be removed if it's messed up with no issue. The engine doesn't miss it.
87ToyRunnerSAS
Member
I found the rubber boot on my "slow bleed air canister" eaten up and I've had the high idle issue for a while now, just living with it. Good to know that I can just remove it and the engine will be fine. I was going to take one off one of the intakes in my garage.
that rubber boot is nothing more than a dust cover. mine is missing completely, but it works like normal.That doohickey is called a dashpot.
Still ahve not located the problem found a vacume leak and fixed it but still nothing has changed.. I clean the idle adjustment screw and then it started this surging idle crap.. now it sounds like my alternator is out lol..
