32/36 Choke

[Lespaulstandard]

After doing some thinking, I decided to try something. I ran a new wire, directly from the choke on the carb to the ignition switch. I am 100% sure that it is getting power. The choke housing gets warm so I know that the heater is working. Correct me if I am wrong, but the choke, when given power, should eventually warm up and open, even if the engine is not running right?

Here is what my choke looked like after 15 minutes of power.

That doesn't make any sense to me. The carb is new. I have not adjusted the choke from the factory setting. With the engine running, the choke plate opens about 1/4" or so, just from the vacuum of the engine I'm guessing.

Shouldn't it warm up and open all the way like this? (I'm holding it open.)

 

[pokey]

does the choke have an adjustable black cover on it? if so when the engine has been warmed up turn the dial until the choke is open. Let it cool off completly and see if the choke is closed. adjust as nec.

 

[Lespaulstandard]

does the choke have an adjustable black cover on it? if so when the engine has been warmed up turn the dial until the choke is open. Let it cool off completly and see if the choke is closed. adjust as nec.

It looks like this.

 

[pokey]

loosen the 3 screws holding (clamping) the white dial and adjust.

 

[Lespaulstandard]

loosen the 3 screws holding (clamping) the white dial and adjust.

Thats what I thought. I tried that after the choke was heated up, and it didn't move the choke plates at all. Does the engine have to be running?

 

[skrause]

loosen the 3 screws holding (clamping) the white dial and adjust.

Do you have to bump the throttle to let it open itself?

 

[84Toyota4x4]

The choke doesnt move on its own on mine. When the engine is cold and the key is turned on, power goes to that wire which energizes that winding inside the cover. Then, I step on the gas to the floor once and let off which sets the choke. I then turn the key and it fires right up with a high idle because the choke is on. As soon as I touch the gas again, the choke will turn off, so I have to let it sit and warm up for about 5 minutes before I can touch the throttle.

If the engine is already warm enough and I turn the key on, then floor it and let off like its cold, the choke doesnt set. Im not exactly sure how it all works since its been so long since I installed mine, I just know mine works.

Oh, if youre having trouble getting power to that wire for the choke, make sure the rest of the stock temp sensors are hooked up. Mine stopped working for a little while and the plug for one of the temp sensors had cracked and wasnt making contact. I assume this meant the ECM didnt know if the engine was warm or cold, therefor wasnt letting the choke wire get power.

~T.J.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Do you have to bump the throttle to let it open itself?

Thats what I was just posting. Thats how mine is. Its electromechanical, not completely electrical. The wire just powers the winding to put tension on the mechanism, then when the throttle linkages move, it engages the choke. Or something like that...

~T.J.

 

[Lespaulstandard]

Thats what I was just posting. Thats how mine is. Its electromechanical, not completely electrical. The wire just powers the winding to put tension on the mechanism, then when the throttle linkages move, it engages the choke. Or something like that...

~T.J.

If the choke is open the little bit that it does, it closes when I bump the throttle. The choke then opens back up that little bit when I start the truck. Giving it gas again does not make the choke open up all the way.

Maybe this is a linkage problem?

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I just noticed it doesnt look like you have the linkage adapter bracket thingy mine has. Ill take some pics of mine for you. Its over at my girlfriends house though, so give me some time.

~T.J.

 

[Lespaulstandard]

Thats what I was just posting. Thats how mine is. Its electromechanical, not completely electrical. The wire just powers the winding to put tension on the mechanism, then when the throttle linkages move, it engages the choke. Or something like that...

~T.J.

Right on. I have the old carb in the garage with a water choke on it, would this be a better choice on this truck?

 

[Lespaulstandard]

Well I went and took the choke apart and it was way over adjusted. Even when it was hot, the spring was preventing the choke from opening. It opens fine now. No verdict on the truck running right yet, I have to do brakes before I can really drive it.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I think once you get this one going, it will be just fine. I got some pictures for you.

First, here is the linkage adapter I have on mine.

This is the engine stone cold. Its been sitting for a few days, and I just pulled the air cleaner off and took the picture.

Heres the engine stone cold still, but all I did was turn the key to the on position, then floored it once and let off to set the choke.

Then, this is after I got back in and cranked it over to start it with the choke still on.

Finally, I let it warm up completely then I bumped the throttle to disengage the choke and this is what it looks like.

I hope that helps you some. Like I said, its electro-mechanical, so just putting power to the wire isnt going to make anything move, you will have to move the linkages to get it to engage and set.

Also, the heater plate is the stock heater plate on the bottom side of the intake manifold, I dont know that the choke housing is supposed to get warm like you said yours was, you may have been putting too much power into it, but I dont know.

~T.J.

 

[Lespaulstandard]

Thanks for the info man, I should have this dialed in tomorrow.

 

[Fullywrecked]

Yes the choike housing will get warm. It gets hot and the heat weakns the spring so it can open. I have bolted webers on and never had to adjust them. They are not my favorite offroad carb but if the float is set right they seem to do fine (except on extreme angles):beer:

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Yeah, I found some good float level and jetting tech articles on Pirate and set mine accordingly with some tuning, and it runs damn good for the most part. Just anything too steep and it likes to bog and die out or idle rough, and when I get too high up in altitude it idles rough and runs poorly. General driving and wheeling, it does fine though.

~T.J.

 

[Fullywrecked]

No carb works perfect, I have seen a few webers work really good. It just took some tinkering. I have ran a stock Aisen for the last few years and it seems pretty good, I get about a 10 sec window on verticle stuff before it starts to sputter and wants to die. (at idle while crawling) I am currently taking apart my rig to put most of the stuff in a fuel injected rig. They just work so good, I couldn't handle it when my buddys can sit and idle on there side and drive out of stuff like that.:beer:

 

[Lespaulstandard]

No carb works perfect, I have seen a few webers work really good. It just took some tinkering. I have ran a stock Aisen for the last few years and it seems pretty good, I get about a 10 sec window on verticle stuff before it starts to sputter and wants to die. (at idle while crawling) I am currently taking apart my rig to put most of the stuff in a fuel injected rig. They just work so good, I couldn't handle it when my buddys can sit and idle on there side and drive out of stuff like that.:beer:

Yeah.. I eventually plan on either swapping in a 22R and a 5 speed or sticking with the 20R and converting to megasquirt. Its a long way down the road, but I think it'd be fun to run ITBs on long runners to try and get the badass noise and throttle response, but try to keep some torque as well.