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BBC 461cid ~500hp
griffing single pass 31x19 1.25" tubes
dual volvo fans (curved blades) in shroud with dividing wall between fans.
crs e pump
i have fans running both same time low comes 190 and high comes 200 they stop 180
normal trail ridin they hardly ever go to high range
when i beat it they go to high range but i have never had any cooling issues

and one thing i really like about volvos they arent loud like aftermarket ones.
 
Timjus said:
BBC 461cid ~500hp
griffing single pass 31x19 1.25" tubes
dual volvo fans (curved blades) in shroud with dividing wall between fans.
crs e pump
i have fans running both same time low comes 190 and high comes 200 they stop 180
normal trail ridin they hardly ever go to high range
when i beat it they go to high range but i have never had any cooling issues
You have a part number and pics of your setup. That's the same radiator I have in my new buggy. I was planning on a f body Camaro fan, but always looking for other options
and one thing i really like about volvos they arent loud like aftermarket ones.
 
rad is 1-56272-X
crs pump is just cheaper 35gpm one
shroud is angeled up from center to gain room to fit twins
whole stuff is inside body panel so there is no natural air flow to it and i have trans cooler front of the rad to it get air flow from rad fans
and battery/fuel tank are stuffed close resricting air flow too


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Mud hole Mud hole worked over LS1 making 475hp at the crank. 22x19x3 griffin radiator, volvo 740 fan. I can street drive, or play all day long and temp never gets above 195 unless the radiator is clogged with mud.
 
I was running the WOD setup with a stock LQ4 and never had a temperature issue. I have wheeled with some higher horsepower WOD buggies with that same setup and they did fine. I am shooting for 550 horsepower from the new engine and plan on keeping everything the same on cooling including my old water pump.
 
Fresh air is key. I run a 38' x 16" CBR with 2 16" Spal fans down low behind seats. Basically no fresh air. Around 540hp. If I push it hard for a long time I will get some temp creep. But I also just found a relay that was not turning my fans on correctly I believe, so that could be part of it.
 
Waffle said:
To those running the Volvo/Taurus 2 speed fans..... are you using both speeds or high only? I already have what I need to do either one. Anyone change from 2spd to hi only or vice versa and have comments? Hi only seems like a plus for simplicity and max airflow, but also seems like a negative for sound (right behind my head) and inrush amps when it's not needed for general crawling and trails (when low would suffice).

Run both Low and Hi. You don't need the amp draw or the noise and the engine will actually be happier if you can keep it around 185-205 instead of trying to cool it down to lower than that all the time.
 
Bebop said:
engine will actually be happier if you can keep it around 185-205 instead of trying to cool it down to lower than that all the time.

:dunno:

That's what a thermostat is for ???

(I agree on using both low and high settings though)
 
TBItoy said:
:dunno:

That's what a thermostat is for ???

(I agree on using both low and high settings though)

True.
But I think the dual speed fan helps in the same goal too.
 
fl-krawler said:
Mud hole Mud hole worked over LS1 making 475hp at the crank. 22x19x3 griffin radiator, volvo 740 fan. I can street drive, or play all day long and temp never gets above 195 unless the radiator is clogged with mud.

Is your radiator in the back or front?
 
Waffle said:
Due to the layout of my rear chassis and my goal of swapping rad/fuel tank locations, I'm forced to go with a custom made radiator built to my specs. Fortunately Clint at CBR has been extremely helpful and their custom builds are on par with the off the shelf stuff as far as price. Unlike other brands where just moving a neck location nets you a $300 custom surcharge. Clint has probably answered 50 questions from me over the past several months and I can't say enough about the service. Top notch!

I buy universal fit radiators all the time, and cut/modify the tanks, covert them to dual pass, modify the filler necks etc. If you don't have a TIG, you can always have a local welding shop do the mods for you.
 

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