hey i remember seeing something that Maniac i think wrote about how you could retard or advance the timing so that you would get more forward wheel speed. Just seeing if anyone can tell me how to do it so i don't screw my motor up! ty :redneck:
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65t motor timing
- Thread starter Toom
- Start date
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Toom said:
IMO I would not mess with it. I would go for gearing...
ManiacMagoo
Well-Known Member
It is easy all you do is loosen the endbell and turn it. If you want to play with it I would strongly advise marking the stock location on the bellhousing and can so you can atleast reverse it.
Todd1803
Well-Known Member
Far as I can tell, my 55T's came set at 0 degrees. You can tell because the timing mark (endbell screws) is aligned exactly between the magnets, which also happens to be right in the middle of the two motor mount screws on the other end of the can.
It is true that advancing the timing will give higher RPM, but remember with a clod that one of the motors will need to be turned the oppisite direction due to the reverse rotation, or you will actually lose performace by retarding the timing on that motor.
Also be aware that advancing the timing to extremes (30+ degrees) will give a ton of performance, but will also kill the motor. 34 degree stock class motors drove a lot of people away from racing in the 90's because they only lasted a week or two before they died. They were sealed back then, and could not be rebuilt.
Playing with the timing is actually something I've been wondering about if I run into problems with "Clod stall". Lots of people run different sized pinions, but I was considering playing with timing. Not really an issue for me now with the 2.2's, but sonner or later I'm gonna mount up a set of LST tires, and I'm guessing it will be more noticable then.
It is true that advancing the timing will give higher RPM, but remember with a clod that one of the motors will need to be turned the oppisite direction due to the reverse rotation, or you will actually lose performace by retarding the timing on that motor.
Also be aware that advancing the timing to extremes (30+ degrees) will give a ton of performance, but will also kill the motor. 34 degree stock class motors drove a lot of people away from racing in the 90's because they only lasted a week or two before they died. They were sealed back then, and could not be rebuilt.
Playing with the timing is actually something I've been wondering about if I run into problems with "Clod stall". Lots of people run different sized pinions, but I was considering playing with timing. Not really an issue for me now with the 2.2's, but sonner or later I'm gonna mount up a set of LST tires, and I'm guessing it will be more noticable then.
I B RACIN
Well-Known Member
Todd1803,
You are correct right between the mounting holes is 0.
I have played with timing on them to counter the stall, and it really don't do much, the best thing I have found to work is gearing, I run 11 front 9 rear.
I just got some 65s, and I'm going to try a 55x1 front & a 65x1 rear and see what that does.
I B..
You are correct right between the mounting holes is 0.
I have played with timing on them to counter the stall, and it really don't do much, the best thing I have found to work is gearing, I run 11 front 9 rear.
I just got some 65s, and I'm going to try a 55x1 front & a 65x1 rear and see what that does.
I B..
