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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
7* reamer
- Thread starter dr drae
- Start date
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
Matt and I got reamers from Xkut - a company on Ebay. They get dull fast so I would recommend just to buy your own...
Yeah, if you just need a cheap one to use a few times, find the seller "xkut" on eBay. It worked for reaming my pitman arm, two high steer arms, and a couple frame mounts for radius arms on my dad's hot rod project... now it's dull and takes a long time to do anything productive.
I think it was pretty inexpensive... but I can't remember the exact price?
I think it was pretty inexpensive... but I can't remember the exact price?
Found some more info...
for reaming out ford knuckles to run the tie rod on top, uses Chevy TRE's
7 DEGREE (1 ½†PER FT.) TAPERED REAMER
(there are quality differences, so shop appropriately)
BC Bronco $60/$110
Afco # 80770 $120
Stock Car Products #R8201 $80
Goodson #TR-216-2 $50
Snap On # R121 $37
for reaming out ford knuckles to run the tie rod on top, uses Chevy TRE's
7 DEGREE (1 ½†PER FT.) TAPERED REAMER
(there are quality differences, so shop appropriately)
BC Bronco $60/$110
Afco # 80770 $120
Stock Car Products #R8201 $80
Goodson #TR-216-2 $50
Snap On # R121 $37
Freeride
Well-Known Member
My snap-on has done 7 knuckles and is still nice and sharp.
This is also in the garage under my build thread - Original idea was to flip my kingpin tierod to the top of the knuckles, hence me researching 7* reamers...
Steering update:
The more I research flipping my tie rod, the more I'm thinking this is a great idea. BUT maybe not the way to go for me. First it involves more labor. Granted not a lot, but second, I'd need to buy a 7* reamer which I keep reading is technically not the right size anyway (actual pitch is 1.5" taper/ft which equals 7* and something like 12 or 13 minutes, so while a 7* reamer will 'work', it's not perfect). And lastly and most importantly, if I'm going to go through the hassle of flipping the tie rod, why not go true hi steer? I haven't run into any con's yet, so if someone can think of something, let me know...
Advantage Kingpin. Instead of running my current hi steer arm on the passenger side, I can run it on the driver's side. Then I'll get a new passenger side arm w/3 holes, two for multiple drag link options and one for the TRE. New arm will be ~2" longer w/the first extra hole for the drag link end further forward (away from the knuckle) than the TRE hole. This will give me better mechanical leverage during steering. Second extra hole to be behind the TRE hole (toward the knuckle) should I ever wish to try that setup, advantage being quicker steering response. As I don't know which I'll like better and also don't know if/when I'll go hydro assist, options are good.
I'll need to mock this up of course after I get my axle under the rig to verify any clearance issues. I'll also need to see how the drag link angle will compare to the working angle of my trac bar. I'm currently running a drop pitman arm, so it's possible I'll have to go back to a shorter arm to keep the two parallel.
Steering update:
The more I research flipping my tie rod, the more I'm thinking this is a great idea. BUT maybe not the way to go for me. First it involves more labor. Granted not a lot, but second, I'd need to buy a 7* reamer which I keep reading is technically not the right size anyway (actual pitch is 1.5" taper/ft which equals 7* and something like 12 or 13 minutes, so while a 7* reamer will 'work', it's not perfect). And lastly and most importantly, if I'm going to go through the hassle of flipping the tie rod, why not go true hi steer? I haven't run into any con's yet, so if someone can think of something, let me know...
Advantage Kingpin. Instead of running my current hi steer arm on the passenger side, I can run it on the driver's side. Then I'll get a new passenger side arm w/3 holes, two for multiple drag link options and one for the TRE. New arm will be ~2" longer w/the first extra hole for the drag link end further forward (away from the knuckle) than the TRE hole. This will give me better mechanical leverage during steering. Second extra hole to be behind the TRE hole (toward the knuckle) should I ever wish to try that setup, advantage being quicker steering response. As I don't know which I'll like better and also don't know if/when I'll go hydro assist, options are good.
I'll need to mock this up of course after I get my axle under the rig to verify any clearance issues. I'll also need to see how the drag link angle will compare to the working angle of my trac bar. I'm currently running a drop pitman arm, so it's possible I'll have to go back to a shorter arm to keep the two parallel.
Last edited:
welder_nick
Member
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- Aug 21, 2006
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dull?
it seems that everybody is complaining about their reamers getting dull.
does anybody use any sort of cutting fluid or oil?
how fast are you running the reamer?
because reamers are normally run at a 1/3(or less) the speed of a similar sized drill
there is also a lot of tool contact so heat builds quickly leading to early tool failure
with a little cutting oil and a slow speed you should get much more life out of a reamer
it seems that everybody is complaining about their reamers getting dull.
does anybody use any sort of cutting fluid or oil?
how fast are you running the reamer?
because reamers are normally run at a 1/3(or less) the speed of a similar sized drill
there is also a lot of tool contact so heat builds quickly leading to early tool failure
with a little cutting oil and a slow speed you should get much more life out of a reamer
