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a '95 4runner progression

rivercat

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snoqualmie, wa
Getting really stoked for the snow! looking at having some down time coming up, so i decided to tear into the truck and make a few changes before we get to deep into winter... i also have a few things to fix from last season.
as i sits -36" iroks
-25" to the frame
-TG sas "4inch" sas
-2.5-3" uptravel

I'm swapping from TG springs to RUF. this should move the front axle froward about 2". the front spring hanger is moving 2.5-3" up into the frame, i'm hoping to loose 2" lift maybe more. the steering box is moving forward and up to clear the springs. the frame will be clearanced for max up travel, i'm not sure if i will gain much if any. it's kind of a trade off between frame height and uptravel.
I hit the bump stops on everything, so i'm hoping to setup the springs stiffer but without adding lift hence moving the hangers up...
 
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little history...
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so this is where its at for now. waiting on some parts to get the plasma fired up...

about ride height. <3" uptravel, however with the axle this far forward lots of oil pan/axle clearance
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compressed to the bumpstop. for reference 'stock' TG sas with RUF 48" top lead and 4.5" shackle
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as soon as the plasma flows that front hanger is coming out...
 
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i hope all of you are out ripping it up in your 'wheelers cuz working on mine outside in 8" of snow ain't to much fun... well then how about some old snow pics since i can't go take new ones.

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snow'd more last night... so i started assembly of the front axle. one of the reasons for this project is to fix cronic trunion bearing failure. i wanted to start with a new front housing as my 'stock' one is a little beat up...i picked up one of these TG front housings. lets just say this thing isn't quite straight.... TG says 'thats how they all are'

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6 of the 11 diffy holes had to be moved as much as 1/8th inch. as you can see the lower diffy holes are mis-aligned to the bottom/inside which leaves the drain bolt heads hanging off the bottom of the diffy.... we'll see how long those stay tight. the diff mounting flange has 1/8th" warp in it and was drilled pior to welding .... i'll run it for the winter and see how happy i am.
 
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:yikes: Fawk that, I'd be sending that POS back....That's just askin for trouble IMHO.
 
i had one and it would never stop leaking , id get it to stop go wheelin and by the time i get home big puddle on deck of trailer , everytime ... finally use old stock one
 
i had one and it would never stop leaking , id get it to stop go wheelin and by the time i get home big puddle on deck of trailer , everytime ... finally use old stock one

well the stock one wasn't cutting it anymore, TG said they'd take this one back if i'm not happy with it. with the truck outside and snow pilling up i'm just focused on getting it rolling again... if i have to swap out the front axle in the spring so be it.
 
****en Trail Gear:rolleyes: Typical ****. Anyhow. If you really want to fix your trunnion bearing problems. Buy the Marlin Crawler HD Hy-Steer arms with the burly 26mm center pins. Seriously. They are THE ****. I had major center pin and trunnion bearing issues for a long time....That is now a thing of the past. :beer:
 
this is close to ride height, still need to build the rest of the spring pack [4-5 leafs] and take the 4" block out from under the tire.

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got the passenger side frame done, and most of the driver side ruffed in. need to work a little magic with the steering box/coresupport and finish weld a few things. waiting on a flat pitman arm... ran out of gas and flapper discs so thats it for this weekend.

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:flipoff:
 
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trying to decide what to do with the front bumper. the sub-frame for TJM t17 i had fitted isn't going to work with the frenched front hanger, it would be almost easier to start new then to mod what i have.... hmmmm. picked up an evolution steel saw last week, can't wait to find something to let this thing rip into
 
well the sking has been kind of crappy with all the rain, and the kayaking has been HUGE, little to much so...

any way got some springs made and this is how she sits free of the jackstands. pack is '87 top leaves mixed with an '81 pack cut down. its 22.5 to the frame as it sits on 33's, but will come down some when i install the battery radiator steering box and winch/bumper...

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thought i was going to get lucky with the steering shaft as i raised the box more than moved it forward, but came up .5" short. i had the shaft come free of the box on a body lifted 4runner i had years ago; not something i built, just had to deal with the aftermath. :flipoff: ill cut and sleeve this one.

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Im liking the stance:awesomework: are you gonna put the iroks back on or is it gonna keep the 33's:corn:
 
Im liking the stance:awesomework: are you gonna put the iroks back on or is it gonna keep the 33's:corn:[/QUOT

the iroks will go back on as soon as i feel i'm ready to hit some snow, nothing quite like dropping them down to 1-2psi ... but the popo don't like them, although they've never comented on the beadlocks. im suprised how well the 33's keep up on the trail, this truck spends alot of time on the freeway so the pizza cutters are a must...

today i raised the radiator 1.25" , almost flush with the bottom of the crossmember now i think i'll build a skid into the bumper just to be safe. also mounted the steering box and lines. tweaked them some to clear the airbox, its getting tight in there...

still need to build a front bumper hoping around a warn 8274, figure out shocks towers and bumps, and double check everything...
 
not much of an update, but its something... got the steering extended, scored an overflow bottle from a V6 honda passport that is happy to live above the steering box; and the big one: shock towers, bump stops and double sheer lower shock mounts. i located the shocks behind and below the axle centerline whichs saves me around 3"s height in the engine bay. got close to the mastercylinder, still maybe 1" clearance for body movement. shock towers are about 13.5" tall, should i run an over-engine cross brace between them?

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