Adding a line lock for trail e-brake?

John90XJ · Jul 29, 2006

I added discs to my rear Dana axle on my XJ and gave up the e-brake in the process. I generally don't use a parking or e-brake on the street but there are times on the trail that having one would be beneficial.

I'm thinking about adding a manual plunger style line lock to use as a temporary e-brake. The brakeline for the rear axle runs down the unibody frame rail on the left side. My thought was to run a line up through the floor, to the line lock, back through the floor and to the back brakes. This would put the lock right next to the driver's seat between the door and the seat frame. I think it would be safe here from getting smacked.

First, anybody else doing this and is it a sound idea?

I'm curious about what kind of brakeline to use...make my own hardline, use stainless braided or ?

Any issues with bleeding it since it will go uphill briefly?

Anybody know if it's even legal?

Thoughts?

JOOP · Jul 29, 2006

Interesting. I would like to know also, since my e-brake doesn't work. I can possible see bleeding the line being a problem but if you put a fitting at the line lock, You should be able to bleed it.

KarlVP · Jul 30, 2006

Legal... NO.

It is feasable. You just need a ball valve and some tube. GaryTJ uses one for his e-brake.

Problems? It is not a mechanical e-brake so you can't trust it overnight. And number two, if you totally lose hydraulics, you have NO BRAKES.... Think about it. No mechanical, no hydraulic = poop car.

Kauaibuilt47 · Jul 30, 2006

Heres the link from PBB on the same topic.

To give you the gist of the thread, to be street legal you need a mechanical E-brake. Some guys run dual ball valve line locks as e-brakes. Only hydraulic problem you should have to worry about would be between ball valve and calipers.

They got some good pics on the first page, about half-way down.

darius · Jul 30, 2006

We run them on every buggy that leaves the shop, including a some street vehicles. they work fine but do run the battery down in a hurry. If they bleed off then you have you're own issues with you're brakes.

John90XJ · Jul 30, 2006

KarlVP said:
Problems? It is not a mechanical e-brake so you can't trust it overnight. And number two, if you totally lose hydraulics, you have NO BRAKES.... Think about it. No mechanical, no hydraulic = poop car.

I figure if I lose hydraulics there at the line lock versus ripping off a brakeline at a front or rear caliper, it's the same thing...get out the ViseGrips and pinch it off.

John90XJ · Jul 30, 2006

darius said:
We run them on every buggy that leaves the shop, including a some street vehicles. they work fine but do run the battery down in a hurry. If they bleed off then you have you're own issues with you're brakes.

I'm thinking mechanical lock, like a plunger. Then I can reach down and pull it on or off mechanically instead of worrying about an electrical component failing.

One like this:

Would you run hardlines in and out or a pair of braided brake lines or ? I'm thinking about drilling 2 holes in the floor and have them go through rubber grommets with a dose of RTV to make them watertight.

CrustyJeep · Jul 30, 2006

John90XJ said:
Would you run hardlines in and out or a pair of braided brake lines or ? I'm thinking about drilling 2 holes in the floor and have them go through rubber grommets with a dose of RTV to make them watertight.

Definately hard lines. Get a tube cutter, a decent flare tool, and get to work :;

Jay W · Jul 30, 2006

I run a ball valve for my park brake. About $13 at the hardware store plus a couple pipe to flair adapters. Has worked great for 6+ years.

crash2 · Jul 30, 2006

John90XJ said:
I'm thinking mechanical lock, like a plunger. Then I can reach down and pull it on or off mechanically instead of worrying about an electrical component failing.

One like this:

Would you run hardlines in and out or a pair of braided brake lines or ? I'm thinking about drilling 2 holes in the floor and have them go through rubber grommets with a dose of RTV to make them watertight.

Those are the ABSOLUTE biggest pieces of crap in the world.
1) if you loose ANY brake presure the things pops off.

2) you must press the brakes to overcome the holding presure to get the thing to release.

I had to watch my rig go down the trail by itself because of one of those POS's

Now I run tripple line locks....

Bunk1 · Jul 30, 2006

Crash is right, I got one and wont even give it away. Do a ball valve.

NotMatt · Jul 30, 2006

I've heard similar things about the Jamar locks. I think when I get to re-plumbing the brakes on my rig, I will go with a combination of electric line locks on the rear wheels (cutting brakes for possible future front dig goodness) and at least one manual ball-valve for a backup (maybe one for each front wheel).

There's a thread here in the tech section that I just posted recently about this same thing and there's some good info in there, including the setup that Hip uses on his rig and is pretty happy with. Worth checking it out.

John90XJ · Jul 31, 2006

NotMatt said:
I've heard similar things about the Jamar locks. I think when I get to re-plumbing the brakes on my rig, I will go with a combination of electric line locks on the rear wheels (cutting brakes for possible future front dig goodness) and at least one manual ball-valve for a backup (maybe one for each front wheel).

There's a thread here in the tech section that I just posted recently about this same thing and there's some good info in there, including the setup that Hip uses on his rig and is pretty happy with. Worth checking it out.

Thanks Matt. It wasn't until I had searched (apparently not well enough) and then posted this thread that I saw your post from 10 days ago. Doh!

When I read that the Jamar lock actually is spring loaded for release I started to wonder about how smart that was. If the only thing holding it on was pressure then any bleed down would seem to give it an opportunity to let go.

I assume from the ball valve standpoint it's either on or it's off and the user has to make the choice either way....do I have that correct? Just hold pressure and then turn to set?

KarlVP · Jul 31, 2006

John90XJ said:
Thanks Matt. It wasn't until I had searched (apparently not well enough) and then posted this thread that I saw your post from 10 days ago. Doh!

When I read that the Jamar lock actually is spring loaded for release I started to wonder about how smart that was. If the only thing holding it on was pressure then any bleed down would seem to give it an opportunity to let go.

I assume from the ball valve standpoint it's either on or it's off and the user has to make the choice either way....do I have that correct? Just hold pressure and then turn to set?

That is correct. Just push down the brakes, and turn the valve to hold the pressure.

John90XJ · Jul 31, 2006

Ball valve recommendations? Place to buy them?

KarlVP · Jul 31, 2006

Most industrial supply shops.

Six Robles? Plumbing Supply stores?

Make sure it can handle the PSI that you want.

zip1 · Jul 31, 2006

So if a person had two ball valves, one for the front & rear brakes. How would be the best way to utilize them if stalled on a steep hill? Just close one of them (the front) then open as the clutch and gas are applied?

crash2 · Jul 31, 2006

But bend over--for the price of some of those you could get a t-case e-brake setup...

Bobbo3234 · Jul 31, 2006

crash said:
Those are the ABSOLUTE biggest pieces of crap in the world.
1) if you loose ANY brake presure the things pops off.

2) you must press the brakes to overcome the holding presure to get the thing to release.

I had to watch my rig go down the trail by itself because of one of those POS's

Now I run tripple line locks....

triple line locks meaning that you run 3 valves in series??