AIR/HYD Bump Stops Information

Hip · Oct 14, 2009

i started looking at bump stops and decided i dont know enough about what features are NEEDED vice desired. so i decided to ask those of you who have actual experiance: prices range from 170 ea to 250 ea....

what type of cans to hold them, grooved, snapring etc?

what brand, dia, and travel do you have and what do you like/dislike about them?

things to discuss: seals, broken parts, slipping through cans, different material strikers, what works and what didnt work?

specifically anything to stay away from?

what to do to keep the cans from warping during attachment?

Corey Y · Oct 14, 2009

I run King 2" dia. 4" travel nitrogen charged bumpstops. I use the King mounting cans too, they fully capture the cylinder. They also use a replaceable rounded plastic pad on the contact end. I have looked at every other similar design made and I like Kings the best. They are mounted so when I land a hard jump, there is 1/4" of bumpstop and 1/2" of shock shaft showing. The fronts have about 200psi and the rears about 170 or so. I still need to make better axle contact pads and add 20 more psi in the rear. These are way better then rubber or poly bumpstops.

Hip · Oct 14, 2009

Crazy Daze said:
I run King 2" dia. 4" travel nitrogen charged bumpstops. I use the King mounting cans too, they fully capture the top. They use a replaceable rounded plastic pad on the contact end. I have looked at every other similar design made and I like Kings the best. They are mounted so when I land a hard jump, there is 1/4" of bumpstop and 1/2" of shock shaft showing. The fronts have about 200psi and the rears about 170 or so. I still need to make better axle contact pads and add 20 more psi in the rear. These are way better then rubber or poly bumpstops.

yeah the kings are on the high end of the price scale...

good info thanks

sarg · Oct 14, 2009

I run fox 2.0 4inch travel bumps in the front. I have about 75psi in them and they work great. I bought mine from www.kartek.com in stock and a great price.

Hip · Oct 15, 2009

sarg said:
I run fox 2.0 4inch travel bumps in the front. I have about 75psi in them and they work great. I bought mine from www.kartek.com in stock and a great price.

i went to thier site all i could find were the 2.5 inch but i didnt call as i am not ready to buy yet....do they stay in the cans? what hold them in?

sarg · Oct 15, 2009

Hip said:
i went to thier site all i could find were the 2.5 inch but i didnt call as i am not ready to buy yet....do they stay in the cans? what hold them in?

I also bought the cans from kartek and yes they do stay in there place and there is one pinch bolt on each can. Also I did weld to much on my cans and I couldnt get the bumps in so I had to cut one of the supports off. :booo:

tomsbrokeagain · Oct 15, 2009

I've heard of guys putting a piece of DOM inside can while welding they say it helps the warpage.

sarg · Oct 15, 2009

tomsbrokeagain said:
I've heard of guys putting a piece of DOM inside can while welding they say it helps the warpage.

honestly if I took my time and didnt over build it they would have been fine.:;

TreeClimber · Oct 15, 2009

My (wife's TJ) has no-name nitrogen/hydraulic bumps that were pretty cheap. The only problem we had, is they are 4 inch bumps, and the TJ only has about 5 inches of useable up-travel. That means the bumps start engagement at about 1 inch of up. Which results in a annoying 'clunk'. Quite often. I tried solving it by softening the nitrogen charge, reducing the PSI to about 75 pounds all the way around. Still the 'clunk' was annoying. So I took a neoprene mousepad, cut squares and glued them to the axle pads. Works like a champ. Quite. At last.

Hip · Mar 30, 2011

anyone want to trade?

ok so i am almost done and i believe i fell into Treeclimbers situation. i only have 5 inch of up travel and 4" bump stops. im really thinking i will be better suited with 2" bump stops?

mine are radflo 2" dia 4" travel and other than mock up are brand new.

http://www.radflo.com/hydraulic.htm

anyone wanna trade?

Bill · Mar 30, 2011

after they are on and you are tuning them, just put an O-ring on the shock shaft and you can see how far they are going up....my .02

Mrblue · Mar 30, 2011

I'm running FOA 4" bumps w/80psi and they work great. Price is good and they come with mounting cans & hardware, and 3 grooves w/snapring to ensure no movement of the body in the cans.
When welding cans use some tight fitting tube inside to act as a heat sink to prevent warpage.:beer:

shrek1 · Mar 30, 2011

Hip said:
ok so i am almost done and i believe i fell into Treeclimbers situation. i only have 5 inch of up travel and 4" bump stops. im really thinking i will be better suited with 2" bump stops?

mine are radflo 2" dia 4" travel and other than mock up are brand new.

http://www.radflo.com/hydraulic.htm

anyone wanna trade?

I believe you can shorten the stroke on some.Not sure about the Radflo.Just a idea.

TreeClimber · Mar 30, 2011

Hip said:
ok so i am almost done and i believe i fell into Treeclimbers situation. i only have 5 inch of up travel and 4" bump stops. im really thinking i will be better suited with 2" bump stops?

mine are radflo 2" dia 4" travel and other than mock up are brand new.

http://www.radflo.com/hydraulic.htm

anyone wanna trade?

My situation didn't last. The neoprene pads that I glued on only held to the metal for a few trail runs, then the neoprene was toast.

Binder · Mar 30, 2011

I don't think I would change them Hip, at least not until you try them. Just run em.....Mine are IIRC 3 1/2" bumps with 4" up travel so it's almost on the bumps all of the time.....They work fine with just a bit less pressure than normal.

Hip · Mar 31, 2011

Binder said:
I don't think I would change them Hip, at least not until you try them. Just run em.....Mine are IIRC 3 1/2" bumps with 4" up travel so it's almost on the bumps all of the time.....They work fine with just a bit less pressure than normal.

that actually my plan for now im just always thinking ahead. now that i got the rear end reamed sunday looks like first voyage around the neighborhood.:redneck:

i havent charged them yet but i think ill only have about 1" before contact.

Bunk1 · Mar 31, 2011

Hip said:
ok so i am almost done and i believe i fell into Treeclimbers situation. i only have 5 inch of up travel and 4" bump stops. im really thinking i will be better suited with 2" bump stops?

mine are radflo 2" dia 4" travel and other than mock up are brand new.

http://www.radflo.com/hydraulic.htm

anyone wanna trade?

I got some fox 2 inchers if ya still want to trade (2 inch body)

Hip · Mar 31, 2011

Bunk said:
I got some fox 2 inchers if ya still want to trade (2 inch body)

like rick said im gonna try it first i guess then see what i need to adjust. give me a couple weeks to play then ill let ya know, if your cool with that?

how long is the body on the foxes and are they the pinch type? mine have the threads on the top thru the can.

Avanteone · Mar 31, 2011

I'm running king 2.0" x 4" in the front, and they've worked great, no complaints... and yes, they get used. I have a set of the ProComp 4" bumps sitting on the shelf, that will be going on before EJS. They look to be very high quality, and are like $100 less than the King's each and INCLUDE the mounting cans.

Like others here, I have about 5.25" of uptravel, so the bump hits after the first 1.25" of compression. I got used to the slight clicking of the bumps hitting very quickly, and don't even really notice it anymore.

Bunk1 · Mar 31, 2011

Hip said:
like rick said im gonna try it first i guess then see what i need to adjust. give me a couple weeks to play then ill let ya know, if your cool with that?

how long is the body on the foxes and are they the pinch type? mine have the threads on the top thru the can.

It sounds like the threads on the top are a deal breaker.