Anti-wrap/traction bar options?

mad chemist · Jan 28, 2007

Currently doing a spring-over on my fj40, and looking for input on what you all have done for anti-wrap bars. I'm using this on the axle:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/antiwraptraction-bars-c-24.html

and will be tying it in to a crossmember right behind the transfer case. I need advice on building the bar itself.

Thanks!

NotMatt · Jan 28, 2007

Here's a link to my build thread and the pics of the anti-wrap bar I built on my wrangler. Works great so far.

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showpost.php?p=78006&postcount=139

Tankota · Jan 28, 2007

Do everything on it more heavy duty than you think it needs. Otherwise you'll end up doing stuff twice...like me:flipoff:

1 1/4" pipe didnt bend. I braced it between the "y". I ripped the whole thing off the axle once so I went with much thicker metal on that mount and braced and gusseted it since this pic was taken. If you are gonna mount it to a cruiser axle then really add alot of gussets and braces cause the cruiser housing is THIN.
I used a 5/8" heim at the top. Only reason it has lasted is that it was VERY good quality.
I mounted the shackle to the stock crossmember. This crossmember is thin so again be careful with welding to it.

mad chemist · Jan 28, 2007

Thanks guys. Just to double check, you want the bar to be parallel to the drive shaft, right? It was sort of hard to tell from the pics- could you show how you hung the shackle from the stock crossmember?

Tankota · Jan 28, 2007

Bar doesn't have to be parallel with your driveshaft.
No matter how it is mounted it WILL bind up some of the suspension travel but very little of the articulation. Bout the best you can do without going to link suspension of some kind.
In fact, parallel with the leaf spring may be better...somewhat impossible cause your leaf spring flexes.

My upper mount....I welded a home made spring perch to the back side of the crossmember. Then bolted my stock cruiser front shackle hanger and shackle to the perch.
The perch has open ends so I can get to the bolt (the perch is actually rectangle tubing with a notch for the tube crossmember).
If you are reversing your shackles and gonna toss your stock mounts/shackles then here is a use for one of them.

At the axle you can use something with bushings (I used toyota pickup anti-dive bar ends) or heims. I'd recommend 3/4 inch heims or really good quality 5/8. Once you get the 5/8 heim though you'll see what I mean with it not looking beefy enough.

Jay W · Jan 28, 2007

on an FJ40.

YellowCJ · Jan 29, 2007

This is what I did on my CJ...
I think Lamar did the same type, you are supose to weld it, my is bolted on and ajustable.

Tankota · Jan 29, 2007

I've seen the single bar style allow quite a bit of spring wrap. Guy on here had one on his toyota. He backed it up a vertical pole and the bar allowed enough reverse flex of the springs that he bent his springs. This was in low low range in reverse. If he could do this in front of his house on the street then I'd probably avoid the single bar type and go with the ladder bar. Until that reverse thing he had so-so results on the trail with it.

Lincolnlock · Jan 29, 2007

Just make sure that you have at least 7inchs of seperation on the axle end. Also the shackel should be hard mounted on the bottom with the traction arm at the top. I also noticed that with the axle upper mount nearly straight on with the frame mount there is even less hop and is easier to launch up things. Build it out of some heavy wall steel. I broke mine once and it is .375 wall DOM. Here are a couple of different builds on different axles.

http://www.rage4x4.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=59&topic=1356.0

http://www.rage4x4.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=59&topic=1048.0

mad chemist · Feb 5, 2007

Actually, that was one thing I was curious about- is there a difference whether the upper or lower end of the shackle is hard-mounted? I'd think it'd work the same either way, no? I guess it'll change the angle of the traction bar a fair amount.

Tankota · Feb 5, 2007

Theoretically t-bar at the top of the shackle would be better. The shackle is at the top of its arc of motion...nowhere to go.
If it is at the bottom then it has the full arc of motion to travel if it can deform the leafsprings enough (quite unlikely).

Mine was on top before I switched from blazer to waggie springs. After...it had to go below or redo the whole mount which I didn't feel like. I've never noticed any difference.

CrustyJeep · Feb 5, 2007

Tankota said:
Theoretically t-bar at the top of the shackle would be better. The shackle is at the top of its arc of motion...nowhere to go.
If it is at the bottom then it has the full arc of motion to travel if it can deform the leafsprings enough (quite unlikely).

Mine was on top before I switched from blazer to waggie springs. After...it had to go below or redo the whole mount which I didn't feel like. I've never noticed any difference.

I can't think of any reason it should make a difference.

motoman432 · Feb 6, 2007

Check out Mountain Offroad i know its a site for jeeps but i'm sure their track bar will work on your fj. i have one on my jeep and solved all my problems. We fabed up a crossmember for it and used 2 jonny joints and a shackle that came with the kit up front and on the axle used the parts that came with. works great. And i know billy bobs offroad has one in stock i was up there today.
http://mountainoffroad.com/more.htm