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Anyone else caved in their frame?

blacksheep10

XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
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On the front of a RZR? Where the lower A arms attach there are 2 parallel tubes running from the box tube frame to the front diff area. If you smoke a tree at 30 and the arms don't give, the frame will blow sideways about an inch laughing1
I'm fixing an oopsie like this for a guy right now and was wondering if anyone else had done this.

I'm also putting XP shocks on it, is has a +6 kit on it and the fox podiums actually broke the coil springs on both sides. I'm not sure if he ran the spanners down until it coil bound, but it sure doesn't look like it. I cut the plate off the top of the upper arm where the old one mounted and made shock rails for the longer XP's to drop down into and mount in.
 
Sounds like a build thread, post up some pics of the brackets and a-arms, im sure the XP shocks will be easy to get soon. I bet they would do good on an S.
 
Another one of our buddies has xp shocks on his billet 6" long travel and he says it does awesome.
 
Is Aaron doing dunes next weekend? Sounded like a possibility a few weeks ago when I talked to him
 
Ive had the same thing happen to me. I hit a tree doing 30 and broke the bottom a arm and ripped the bolt out of the top one had to take it to a frame shop to get it fixed but never was right again
 
This is not to bad to fix :****:

1.Don't take anything loose but the 4 bolts that hold in the front diff. Don't want to bust it!!
2.Use chain to hook rzr to tree from the back.
3.Use tree saver thru wheel that hit the tree.
4.Hook tree saver to frame machine(also know as winch attached to truck,buggy or what ever else you can find with one)
5.apply tension and then tap on the thin gusset where the round tube meets square frame.
6.repeat step 5 till wheel base on this side is 1/2 to 1" longer than other side.
7.release and remeasure
8.move on to step 9. if both side are the same repeat set 6 and 7 if not the same.
9.remove skid plate to access the insides of the round tube.
10.pick up some black pipe at local supply store with OD size 1/16th smaller than the ID of frame(will look when i get home to see what the pipe
size is. I think I still have receipt. This is about 2 to 3 times as strong as factory frame.)
11.Measure from inside of square tube to the bend in the tube at the front of the rzr.
12.Cut to fit.
13.use hammer to drive tube inside of factory frame. If don't want to go hit it harder :****: if still don't try adding pressure with the winch again.
14.weld end of tube to keep from moving after you get it in.
Now beat on it again :woot: :woot:
Would recommend steps 9,10,11,12,13,14 to everybody with a rzr!!!
This also works in the rear on the upper and lower frame where the a arms attach.
This keeps you from crushing the tubes and makes it stronger plus its CHEAP!!!! :dblthumb:
 
I hadn't thought of sleeving internally. I just cut and replaced, and am going back with tabs that go side to side with holes the size of the lower rails so they can't move sideways and plating in for bracing.
The rails I burned are for xp shocks in +6 Super ATV arms of the old style only. Beyond niche laughing1


I'll be honest though, I don't think this one would have rounded back out, it was 100% flat. I still have the drop if Travis will come and take a pic laughing1
 

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