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Beadlock Question

cadpwrdyj

cadpwrdyj

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Messages
244
Location
Warrior, AL
I have been looking at beadlocks lately, trying to decide on the DIY kits or something like trail ready. I wasn't planning on going with aluminum so there are plenty of choices out there in steel. My question was I saw some 15x8 TR's on CAOS and thought about checking on them, but I have always gone with the rule of thumb on 39.5X15x15 TSL's that I should go with a 10" wheel. What do you guys suggest? Btw...I'm not looking for bling...just function. Thx.... ???
 
I would like to see some one run a set of the Inner locks on a high HP rig through the XRRA season to see how they really hold up, not talking trash, I am just not sold on them. I have seen some of the others on the market not make a whole season, just a thought.
 
Mike, are you talking in general terms of this type of lock? Meaning these and Stuans? Or are you speaking of one or the other specifically?

For the cost, and the weight, I am considering running these on an H2 rim for a spare. Last thing I want to do is have $400 tied up in a matching Walker Evans to just sit on the trailer. Vs. a near free H2, and $166 for the beadlock. Thats cheap, and I wont feel guilty about spending that type of dough for it laying on the trailer 90% of its life. Don't know, I'm running BFG's so maybe my spares end up with more use than that......
 
Yea, better buy TWO spares thumb.gif No I just mean we have ran a stick,branch or long nail through a tire and jumper out and pluged it and went on our way, with these type on beadlocks, what do I do then?? Seems to me spend the money once on good beadlocks and be done with it. Not trying to start a bitch thread here, but someone tell me I am wrong about this and tell me how it will not happen and then I'll know too. Not saying I have not blown up high dollar beadlocks but I can tear up about anything and for the guys out there getting on their rigs hard and fast, running into things at a good speed not sure I am sold on any of these in the tire locks. I know Ken Blume runs them and seems to have good luck, anyone else have good luck with them??

As far as the BFG and Maxxis thing who knows, I have been around the Maxxis alot, most all our rigs run them and have had great luck, are they the best?? They pay better to run them in the XRRA that is why most do. Look at Brian last season, 1st place at the first event and 2nd at the second event and he was running BFG's so he did not get the $3,000.00 he would have running the Maxxis tires. Buddy and I ran the new 42" IROK all season and I love them and yes I am going to run them on my new rig, might be alttle big but I always have the Maxxis to fall back on, again just my .02 worth.
 
bentandtwisted said:
Yea, better buy TWO spares thumb.gif
Click to expand...
HA, yeah I did. I could buy 6 for the price of 4 Maxxis

Thanks for clarity on the balloon locks. Good points on running stuff through them. I was just thinking if I shred a sidewall, I'd sitll have a lil runflat action. But your right, if you torn the sidewall odds are you tore the balloon.
 
I'll be running a set in XRRA this season

not completely true on the thoughts here

first - the airlocks (anytype) are only 1-2" larger in diameter than the wheel, so there's not a lot of exposed "balloon" to puncture. What's the chances of that branch goin in right at the rim?

Second - the tube is incased in a heavy duty nylon material that is very resistant to punctures and protects the tube.

Third - what do you do when/if you pop a tube and puncture it - replace the tube - alot easier that replacing and expensive beadlock rim. I got tubes at an atv store for $15each easy and cheap enought to carry an extra. Now your casing might have a hole in it but what's the chances of hitting that spot again in that exact hole in the rest of the event? they're warrantied so get it replaced when you get home.


Also compare apples to apple - these give you dual beadlocks - how much would that cost you?
 
I used to have a picture of Ken Blumes rig at the WE-Rock in Tn pissing water out the sidewall... he was on Stauns and they plugged and went on as far as I could tell. Granted WE-Rock is generally slower paced and not a sidewall killer.


I was gonna buy Stauns but honestly... I bought a fitty instead.

If I kill a tire, Ill let it kill a wheel too before I stop . Crossing the finish line is what will matter. Im gonna steal 4 spare H2's and 42 Iroks anyway thumb.gif laughing1

I consider the H2 wheel disposable personally... they are easy to come by
 
will you get me some h2's then? how much?

I'm on steelies and could use some weight savings
 
I would think the H2 wheel would be poor choice for rockracing. I have seen quite a few of them break in go-slow stuff.

I would suffer the weight and run H1's and at least you get the double BL.
 
wngrog said:
I would think the H2 wheel would be poor choice for rockracing. I have seen quite a few of them break in go-slow stuff.

I would suffer the weight and run H1's and at least you get the double BL.
Click to expand...

Im poor :flipoff1:
 
Going rate around here is $250 a set(4) of H2's, or $100 a piece for the Chromes. I knew where a pallet pile of them were, but called yesterday and found they had all been sold at the $250 a set price. They are all over Craigslist, at $250.

Kelly said something about $200 a set around KC. I would split a set with somebody, I need 2.
 
Thanks guys..I appreciate all the responses..thats what I was looking for was some real world scenarios/feedback on the different types. I was leaning toward Stauns myself and some steelies just to get me rolling and that way I could buy me some cool wheels later on after the cost shock of all this stuff has worn off.
 
rockwild said:
I'll be running a set in XRRA this season

not completely true on the thoughts here

first - the airlocks (anytype) are only 1-2" larger in diameter than the wheel, so there's not a lot of exposed "balloon" to puncture. What's the chances of that branch goin in right at the rim?

Second - the tube is incased in a heavy duty nylon material that is very resistant to punctures and protects the tube.

Third - what do you do when/if you pop a tube and puncture it - replace the tube - alot easier that replacing and expensive beadlock rim. I got tubes at an atv store for $15each easy and cheap enought to carry an extra. Now your casing might have a hole in it but what's the chances of hitting that spot again in that exact hole in the rest of the event? they're warrantied so get it replaced when you get home.


Also compare apples to apple - these give you dual beadlocks - how much would that cost you?

I guess after you pull up the line and see 40 500hp rigs ready to rip the hell out of anything that comes in it ways, I dont want to worry about a beadlock wheel that might get a hole in it. I have bee around this for more than awhile, not trying to make anyone mad, just don't think some here have any idea what kind of speed we reach on some of theses tracks. I guess we will see, I wish all of you the best of luck this season, some times with out luck you have nothing at all. Again just my .02 worth.
Click to expand...
 
I sense some underlying issues with your opinion - sorry but XRRA is not the end all be all of offroad racing :fish:

Have you kept a rig long enough to even say you've tested it :flipoff1: - that may have crossed the line just :fish:

If you put a hole in a inner beadlock style you've got a hole in your tire
 

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