Beadlocks

dr drae · Jan 12, 2007

I've been researching beadlocks, trying to figure out what the pros/cons are of DIY vs prefab beadlocks. I realize the DIY are cheaper and require the labor of welding, but in terms of performance, how does the DIY compare? Any (either style) that peoples like/hate?

crash2 · Jan 12, 2007

dr drae said:
I've been researching beadlocks, trying to figure out what the pros/cons are of DIY vs prefab beadlocks. I realize the DIY are cheaper and require the labor of welding, but in terms of performance, how does the DIY compare? Any (either style) that peoples like/hate?

I prefer TR's Aaron---there design has a lip that centers the tire and also controls the crsuh against the bead. I am sure other pre-made beadlocks are simular...

dr drae · Jan 12, 2007

crash said:
I prefer TR's Aaron---there design has a lip that centers the tire and also controls the crsuh against the bead. I am sure other pre-made beadlocks are simular...

cast Aluminum vs forged Aluminum vs steel?

Harvester of Sorrow · Jan 12, 2007

There are no differences in performance. They have a singular task...and that is to hold/clamp the bead. As a result of this singular task they either work or the don't. There are little things to each different style that might make a difference here and there...like anti-coning ring's, centering grooves as mentioned...etc.

If you don't have the time or the resources...then manufactured beadlocks are the way to go. You get a slick new rim, professionally welded and machined rim assembly...etc.

If you can weld a set together and have the time to do it then it is a great learning experience. That being said, I will build my next set again...nothing was too scary about doing it. Your welds just need to be air tight...and take your time to think things through. When you mount your tires and start to clamp the rings down...sit the rim on a 5 gallon bucket so that the tire can hang. This action will naturally center the rim and tire...making them concentric.

The next set I make will probably be all aluminum tig'ed on again...with a machined clamping recess.

Here are some pics of the ones I built:

1. Rings from a fellow in Yakima: steel inner ring and aluminum outer ring
2. New raw unpainted rims from SUMMIT/US Wheel
3. Grade 5 plated hardware. Flat on front and back with thin Nyloc nuts.

stealthrunner1 · Jan 12, 2007

:clappy: :clappy: Trail Ready!!!!!!!!:clappy: :clappy: :clappy:

sucmah · Jan 12, 2007

I would recomend humvee's, why go single when you can have double.

shotmobile · Jan 12, 2007

sucmah said:
I would recomend humvee's, why go single when you can have double.

He could go that route but that would be too much back spacing. His axles were narrowed to 62"wms to wms. He would have to have the rims recentered and that adds up real quick.

Symon623 · Jan 12, 2007

Doc,
I had a set of weld-ons and 2 of them I had a hell of a time to get centered, never actually did. worked great held air and everything cept til I got above about 25 MPH and hit a uneven area/bump in the road would inconsistantly induce the always welcome "death-wobble". Sold em and haven't had the D/W since. Am currently saving for B'L's with a centering ring.

My $.02 which in todays economy is worth about $.0075, unless it realistate then it's worth about $20,000.

PORTER · Jan 12, 2007

Trailreadys, or Walkers are the best in the buisness as far as I am concerned. Tire is correctly centered, and there bulletproof reliability speaks volumes.

JPFREAK · Jan 12, 2007

I bought my Champion beadlocks back before Trailready made aluminum beadlocks.

If I ever decide to go with a 17" rim, I'll have a tough choice to make, But it will be all aluminum. (Champion, TR, or Walkers)

sucmah · Jan 12, 2007

shotmobile said:
He could go that route but that would be too much back spacing. His axles were narrowed to 62"wms to wms. He would have to have the rims recentered and that adds up real quick.

He would still be cheaper than a complete aftermarket set if he recenters a set of hmv's. Centers cost around $50 a peice.