bender help!!!

[marczuk]

So i got a new pro tools bender. An my problem is keeping the tube level when making more than one bend.
its all ****ed up when you lay it on the floor.lol so if anyone know has any tips an tricks let me know.
thanks.

 

[Elliott]

Get you a digital angle finder from sears! Get a little pressure on the bar, just enough to hold it but still be twistable then put the angle finder on the die , zero it out then twist the bar to what ever angle you want. The mistake everyone makes when starting out is assuming you just put the bar on the correct angle while it's hanging in the air, it has to be set off the die.

 

[marczuk]

So if u want all the bends the same. U should zero the finder out on the die an all the bends should match the
die as u bend them. Is that what ur saying. An to ur last statement. U cannot assume its right bc gravity will bring it down an screw u up.lol

 

[Rokcrler]

Manually or hydro bending?
Since i went hydro i quit worrying about leveling the die. Get a POB (point of bend) bracket to holdhold your level at the end if the tube and zero before the first bend. Don't zero again unless you're ready to remove the tube

 

[Elliott]

It's locked in the die, gravity won't effect it trust me it works.

 

[Elliott]

That is assuming you are using the right die for the right tubing.you should have to POP it out when you ate done bending if it's the correct die

 

[marczuk]

Ya its the right die but ill give it shot. Thanks for the help

 

[big ford]

Get a exhaust clamp and weld a piece of flat plate on the side of the bracket that the u bolts slide thru, tighten it on the pipe than put a degree finder on the plate u welded, zero it before u make your first bend and put it at the opposite side from where you are bending and leave it on the intire time you are bending so every bend you can zero it, if that helps.

 

[chembree]

Get a exhaust clamp and weld a piece of flat plate on the side of the bracket that the u bolts slide thru, tighten it on the pipe than put a degree finder on the plate u welded, zero it before u make your first bend and put it at the opposite side from where you are bending and leave it on the intire time you are bending so every bend you can zero it, if that helps.

i have a similar set up for mine but some times i have same problems with the tube being twisted ( but not that bad ) i think it would help if the plate welded to the clamp was at least 6-8 inchs long mine is only about 1 1/2 long thats how long my digital finder.

 

[marczuk]

Thank yal for the input. Am goin to try these ideas out this week

 

[big ford]

If the tubing is a long you will need to keep it supported with a jack stand or something and keep it level with the die while you are bending.

 

[marczuk]

I think that was alot of the problem. so am goin to get a buddy over to help for the longer ones.

 

[JRoach321]

I like the exhaust clamp method. Good thinking . . . I use a v-block and clamp it to the end of the tube and put a magnetic angle finder on top.

 

[marczuk]

I tried the exhaust clamp. an it worked like a champ. Thank yal so much for the help!

 

[TBItoy]

I built a T bar stand (welded a T out of square tube, then welded it to a brake rotor) that is the same height as the bottom edge of the radius of my die. It will hold the tubing level if you want to make 2-3 bends in 1 long piece.

Mostly I just try to never bend a piece of tube more than once.

if you look at a lot of the buggy builds by pro builders, they rarely have tubes with more than one bend, they will sleeve and splice tube to make complex looking long tubes. If you use the correct size slug inside a splice, the splice is a lot stronger than the tube itself. (1.75x.120 wall splice, use 1.5" OD tube inside of it, 3-6" long). WAY EASIER than trying to make some big ass complex tube.