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Bleeding A Clutch Master Cylinder in a Ranger

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zebraic

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so a friend of mine changed his slave and master and now cant bleed it. i looked into it a little and heard that you have to raise the front end like 3 or 4 for feet in the air?? What is the reason for this and whats the best way to bleed it?

the only way i could find was to lift it 4 feet in the air, then bleed it like regular. it just takes a million pumps to get all the air out i guess? didnt look to hard, but any help would be much appreciated :) thanks!! :awesomework:
 
In my experience some have a bleeder screw and some don't.
If there is no bleeder it's a PITA, gravity is required.
When I did it the non bleeder screw method I had to leave the cylinder loose from the firewall, hold it as high as possible at an angle while filling with fluid and wait for air to bubble out.
Stupid. They should just put bleeder screws in them all!
 
units without bleeders normally have some type of papers in the box to proper way to install said part ....... never had a prob with unit with out bleeders most of of the time they want you to prefill unit and push fluid to the master instead of pumpin on the pedal ......

if the problem is with a inturnal slave in a ranger .... if you tryed to bleed it after you installed it you ****ed up they come prebleed ready for use ... pull the unit and install another and sidestep the pedal couple times and away you go no bleeding needed

the only way to bleed those rangers is a phenix injector gun .....pushes fluid backwards


if you look at a ranger system the fluid goes from the master to the slave but the slaves full circle so the fluid has to travel in a full circle around the slave before reaching the bleeder so air always gets trapt in the slave and you will never get it out with a normal bleeding methods
 
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so you understand the slave is prebleed not the master .... you bench bleed the master and install it push onthe little white thing on the inside of the line making sure some fluid runs out and the install the line to the slave which should already be in the trans and the trans installed into the truck .... hop in the drivers seat and side step the clutch
 
did you bench bleed it? If it's an older ranger, you need to fill the res, and put the line that goes to the slave back into the res with it out of the truck, bleed it this way, then the rest should be gravity bleed. The ranger systems are all down hill, so just open the slave bleeder, and pump while someone else is filling the res.
 
What year? Some have the master rotated from the old ones and trap air more.

If it's the quick disconnect style, you can take the master loose from the rig, turn it so the outlet is at the highest point, and push the quick connect end in to bench bleed the master. then install it and bleed it like brakes.

The final step to get the pedal up is to slowly push the clutch pedal to the floor, then basically dump the clutch. Release it as fast as you can. then slowly push it down again, hold, and dump. Repeat about 10-20 times, and the pedal should come up off the floor.

Yeah... there's a few things I'd like to travel back in time and kick a Ford engineer in the nuts for...
 
man thank you guys SOO much! i wont even be able to look at it til mon or tues. All i know is he said he put a new master cylinder and slave cylinder in and im guessin he did not bench bleed the master.. It also sounds like its the older model without the bleeder screw. :looser: So without seeing it, it sounds like im going to have to pull the master and bench bleed it before i do anything else. i posted here just to get a feel for how long of a day was gonna have lol.. damn :mad:
 
Totalled said:
Unless it's an 83/84 with the external slave, it's got a bleeder..
Click to expand...

oh really? well that would make life a lot easier. im seeing it tomorrow, so ill know a lot more after that :)

so if it has a bleeder screw, do i still have to take the master out and bench bleed it? or can i do the raise it in the air and bleed it like regular?
 
The master is mounted higher than the bleeder. Some you can force the air out through a **** ton of pressure bleeding, or you can just take the extra time to burp it and have it work better....

I'll be pulling mine apart in the explorer as I tried to 1 man pressure bleed it and there's still air in it..
 
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just an fyi. What we do here at the shop for the stuborn ones is to hook up one of the hand held vacuum pumps to the top of the master, (make sure you have the little bottle inline so it won't get fluid into the pump) suck the master down to about 20 inches of vacuum and hold for 20 minutes. This will pull the slave in and force all the air and fluid into the master and purge it. The air under vacuum goes right to the top and gets purged out.

after 20 minutes, take off and pump system up. You are done.

P.S. this also works great for whining p/s
 
GaryTJ said:
just an fyi. What we do here at the shop for the stuborn ones is to hook up one of the hand held vacuum pumps to the top of the master, (make sure you have the little bottle inline so it won't get fluid into the pump) suck the master down to about 20 inches of vacuum and hold for 20 minutes. This will pull the slave in and force all the air and fluid into the master and purge it. The air under vacuum goes right to the top and gets purged out.

after 20 minutes, take off and pump system up. You are done.

P.S. this also works great for whining p/s
Click to expand...
what do u mean make sure the little bottle is in line?
 
GaryTJ said:
just an fyi. What we do here at the shop for the stuborn ones is to hook up one of the hand held vacuum pumps to the top of the master, (make sure you have the little bottle inline so it won't get fluid into the pump) suck the master down to about 20 inches of vacuum and hold for 20 minutes. This will pull the slave in and force all the air and fluid into the master and purge it. The air under vacuum goes right to the top and gets purged out.

after 20 minutes, take off and pump system up. You are done.

P.S. this also works great for whining p/s
Click to expand...

thanks a ton!! didnt have to rack it or anything.. worked like a champ :awesomework:
 

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