Bought an RTR axial...

xraidedj · Mar 7, 2009

Empty pocket ax build, many free/cheap mods

Got this thing so I had a basic crawler since I wont be compin it...what are some "free" tweeks I can do...i installed the front locker already, and the new pinion gear, its pretty fun already, but I would like to soften up the suspension already...

ROOKIE · Mar 12, 2009

don't soften it up to much becouse you will get alot of torque twist trust me i no mine used to be so soft that i could give it throttle and it would just flop over:haha:

xraidedj · Mar 13, 2009

i got soft up front, and hard in the back with a spacer on the back let spring to help with the twist.

Damnyankee · Mar 13, 2009

Get a 55 turn motor, they are abut 27 bucks. Will cut the speed in half, much better for crawling.

I bought one of those about 2 weeks ago, already spend 100 bucks in upgrades.

xraidedj · Mar 13, 2009

Here are some pics of yesterdays run at ROCKY REACH DAM LOOKOUT...i have weighted my wheels, star cut the foam, truggied the stock body, and have some saddle pack batteries and plates and other goodies supposed to be here today. getting a 55turn motor from a friend hopefully today also.

xraidedj · Mar 29, 2009

so, I have this done so far:

In order,

14tooth pinion(spare parts with it)

installed front locker(spare parts with it)

weighted the wheels 6 front 3 rear($5)

drilled a 3/16 hole in each wheel for air in and out(free)

star cut the foams(free)

recessed front screws for better turn radius(free)

silver soft springs in front(Free)

saddle pack plates($10)

saddle pack battery($24)

55 turn motor(trade)

Flat Iron tires(trade)

crawler body(trade)

stuff to make own saddle batteries(trade-new)

inboard lower links, cut 4 notches out of crossmember plate

ground down with the bench grinder the stock links and flipped them so that have more ground clearance in the middle.(free)

antanna in under body with some stock body plastic with notches and rapped around it(free)

wheelinjp · Mar 29, 2009

Looks very cool. how do you like the flat irons vs. the stock tires? I need to inboard my links too. Looks like it works really well. Does your reverse require a pause at center before it goes into reverse? I looks like it is doing some really steep climbs. :awesomework:

xraidedj · Mar 29, 2009

I like em so far, I've been going places the lizards couldn't touch before, same exact lines, except now I can actually go up them without helping it or going around some of the obstacles. the best things so far to date would be the battery on the front axle(low center of gravity is key). then the 55 turn motor. then the new tires(the lizards did much better with weight and star cut foams and the hole drilled in the wheels, plus I siped all of them with a razor). but also the front springs also need to be way softer than stock, im using just the soft silver springs on front and the stock firm on the back...tell you the truth, im going mostly the same places the guys with the "good ****" are making up....alot of it has to do with the driver.

My problems so far with all the current mods are that im in need of a good ESC with braking...im gonna spring for a novak rooster here soon, im just trying to get all the free stuff out of the way first. i didn't notice much difference, even though it was easy, inboarding the lower links. pretty much just makes it so you dont hang up on them from what i can tell. I found a traxxis tq3 3 ch remote with receiver for only $15(NEW) on ebay and that has the thumb toggle for the 3rd ch which will be used for my "future" dig, plus that stock axial remote is a super major pile of nasty brown smelly baby ****! I hate it, but I cant afford anything fancy yet and I know alot of people using the tq3 and seems to be working good for them for what you get.:awesomework:

oh, one more thing....In need of good steering servo also....but that can wait till after the esc.

xraidedj · Mar 29, 2009

star cut foam link

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56025&highlight=star+pattern&page=2

wheelinjp · Mar 30, 2009

perfect, thanks. my foam is alot wider and thicker than that I think. I will try it though. I will wait until I get the fishing lead before I pull the wheels apart again. I agree with needing a servo, luckily mine came with an hs645 already installed. it works pretty good, but I might swap it for the JR 650? that is on my super mod rig. If I was to buy a new one I would spend the money on a nice one like the hs5995. they have like 330oz.tq. My hs645 does get overpowered at times. I am going to try my super rooster on my ax-10 also. I also have a tq3 with the rear steer mod. I want to try it on the ax-10 as well. I just dont want to strip all the good parts off my other rig. I think I need to just order a new tq3 on e-bay like you did. they must come with the traxxas trucks and the hobby shops pull them and keep them. I had no idea they were so cheap a couple weeks ago.

milleman · Mar 30, 2009

good start man

the next thing i would look into it steering up grade those thengo get some bent links there only like 50 buck for the hole link kit good luck!

HotRodJosh · Mar 30, 2009

stumpjumper said:
thengo get some bent links there only like 50 buck for the hole link kit good luck!

Or.......................get yerself a stick of 3/16 aluminum tubing, a bag of T-Maxx rod ends and make your own bent links for WAY under $50.:redneck:

wheelinjp · Mar 30, 2009

HotRodJosh said:
Or.......................get yerself a stick of 3/16 aluminum tubing, a bag of T-Maxx rod ends and make your own bent links for WAY under $50.:redneck:

Hey josh do you have a local place to get the thick wall alum. tubing? I know where to get some rod ends haha. None of the hobby stores Ive been to have the tubing cause they want me to buy the $50 dollar ones :eeek:
OOpps sorry for the hyjack.

your rig works great and nice co-driver.
:awesomework:

TrikeKid · Mar 30, 2009

wheelinjp said:
Hey josh do you have a local place to get the thick wall alum. tubing? I know where to get some rod ends haha. None of the hobby stores Ive been to have the tubing cause they want me to buy the $50 dollar ones :eeek:
OOpps sorry for the hyjack.

your rig works great and nice co-driver.
:awesomework:

Most hardware stores have a small rack of the tube you need.

HotRodJosh · Mar 30, 2009

Sean...are you still in Puyallup? If so, Nitro Hobbies has a rack with the tubing. I get mine at Ace Hardware, but Nitro is a little cheaper.
I forget the wall thickness, but a 6-32 tap works perfect for threading the tube. Then ya screw a 6-32 screw in it, whack off the head, run the tap into your rod ends, and you're golden.:beer:

ROOKIE · Mar 30, 2009

i just did a behind the axle steering system on mine useing som stuff i had laying around i will let you know if it works :awesomework:

xraidedj · Apr 1, 2009

here is the inboarded links, the antanna mount, the lower links ground down and flipped so the fat part is on the axle side instead of being at the chassis end, and my battery setup with plates. Oh, and me crawlin over my boy!

xraidedj · Apr 2, 2009

flex?

is to much flex bad? im debating it, because i have tweaked my suspesion so well that i can flex my front axle almost 90 degrees without either of the rear tires leaving the ground, im using soft silver up front and stock grey firm in back...when i inboarding my links on the axle side i put from outside to in...

2small washers, spacer, link then shock on the outside of the stock mount then the nut...basicaly moved the shocks inside the links, which is opposite to how it comes stock, i did this so that there is no more binding up with the links at full flex either way. but in turn it makes it flex much easier cause there is more leaverage against the shock and the further to center you go the less the shock moves the further it flexes, same principle as real life...any input?

I would assume that flex is good because it allows for all 4 tires to remain getting traction at 4 different locations...i guess i will just have to test it for myself. I can see it being bad in some situations...but i dont know?