Brakes...

hwcurtice · Mar 21, 2008

Okay, your wife's car, the woman you love above all else, needs front brakes. You can do the job yourself (This group, I should hope so) and you're off to the parts store to get the brake pads. They have 6 different types. Cheapos at $19.95 up to 'They cost how much?' $75.95. They have some that cost less than the $75.95, that look just as good.

Which ones do you buy?

BTW, these prices are off the NAPA website. Brakes are for a 2005 Ford Taurus.

Dirtball · Mar 21, 2008

brakes are highly over-rated. they just slow you down anyway.
no brakes? you get to where your going faster!!!!

CrustyJeep · Mar 21, 2008

hwcurtice said:
Okay, your wife's car, the woman you love above all else ... a 2005 Ford Taurus.

This doesn't add up :flipoff:

No way in fawk would I pay $75 for a set of brake pads on that car. On a truck that's gonna do a lot of towing in hilly areas, maybe, or on a car that's gonna get the piss driven out of it, but not for a car that is presumably driven very mildly. Just get basic metallics and be done with it.

And turn the rotors. Show a little respect for your wife :flipoff:

hwcurtice · Mar 21, 2008

So, PopeCrusty, where in Monroe do I get them turned? On a Saturday?

crash2 · Mar 21, 2008

hwcurtice said:
So, PopeCrusty, where in Monroe do I get them turned? On a Saturday?

Highway auto :awesomework:

If ya wait till next sat I can do them here at work for ya harold :awesomework:

CrustyJeep · Mar 21, 2008

crash said:
Highway auto :awesomework:

That's where mine go.

Pat · Mar 21, 2008

Get the cheapos. And I never bother turning rotors unless they are real bad and usually if they are real bad its time for new ones anyways. Something about turning a quarter inch groove out that leaves them kinda thin. IMO the hoses and calipers are more important than the pads or rotors. Seems like I usually get loaded calipers for about the same price as just pads.

TigTorch · Mar 21, 2008

I've learned the hard way that many of the high dollar pads are designed to take more heat but require more brake pedal pressure. This can be a PITA when driving around town.

CrustyJeep · Mar 21, 2008

TigTorch said:
I've learned the hard way that many of the high dollar pads are designed to take more heat but require more brake pedal pressure. This can be a PITA when driving around town.

They actually don't perform as well when they're cold, that's why you have pedal pressure differences.

That's why for wheeling, it's organics for me. I rarely get my brakes above ambient when wheeling.

Metallics definitely last longer, though.

Rix · Mar 21, 2008

Step one:
sell tore-ass with a clearly stated ad: needs front brakes.
Step two:
Buy another car that isn't a tore-ass.
Preferably something that will outlast it's warranty.
:awesomework:

hwcurtice · Mar 21, 2008

Rix said:
Step one:
sell tore-ass with a clearly stated ad: needs front brakes.
Step two:
Buy another car that isn't a tore-ass.
Preferably something that will outlast it's warranty.
:awesomework:

If a Taurus needs brakes, for the first time, I would say the factory warranty is over anyway. Car has about 45K on it. We've only had it for two years and got it when it had 9k.

And if you want to argue that fact, my wife loves HER car. She doesn't want to trade it in, even though I have tried in the past. My job? Keep it running until it dies a fatal death.

I know some here say a Taurus is a grandma car, but being as the both of us could be grandparents.....

hwcurtice · Mar 21, 2008

crash said:
Highway auto :awesomework:

If ya wait till next sat I can do them here at work for ya harold :awesomework:

Dang Mike, if the brakes weren't grinding...

It's something I need to do tomorrow. Hopefully, I can get the rotors turned, dropped off and pick up, the same day.

Before anyone asks, I don't drive the wife's car. First time in about three months, Saturday after the work party, I drove it and heard the brakes grinding. Not a good sound. Wife has the radio on. If she hears a funny sound, the radio gets turned up another notch.

64FJ40 · Mar 22, 2008

hwcurtice said:
It's something I need to do tomorrow. Hopefully, I can get the rotors turned, dropped off and pick up, the same day.

Call Highway first thing in the morning. I think the last time I had them do my rotors and flywheel, rotors were like $12 each (?) and a couple hours turn-around.

junkyard jim · Mar 22, 2008

Get the SS (Safety Stop) or AD pads if available. The Adaptive ones are the Shiz Nizzy fo sho! They are a blend of two kinds of ceramic pads so they work well hot and cold. They are also designed to wear inside and outside at approx the same rate (don't you hate throwing away 1/2 thick outer pads because the inners are nearly metal to metal?)

03 CON · Mar 22, 2008

hwcurtice said:
Wife has the radio on. If she hears a funny sound, the radio gets turned up another notch.

You say that like its wrong:eeek:

Rix · Mar 22, 2008

hwcurtice said:
. My job? Keep it running until it dies a fatal death......

:beer:

hwcurtice · Mar 22, 2008

So, brake pads aren't even half worn. Rotors are smooth as a baby's butt.

Now what? I'm pretty sure the rears are good. Help?

I need to find out what this grinding noise is. It isn't that loud, but you can hear it. Car has 50K on it. Told you, I don't drive it that much....

angelfly · Mar 22, 2008

Wheel bearings???? or cv shafts????? the same ting just happened on my ranger, grinding sound all the time when your driving and then it goes away when you apply good brake pressure???????

if so mine was the wheel bearing, but I ended up replacing both the bearing and cvs! hope that helps alittle! its obviously on the rotating assembly of the drivetrain so the next step would be to slowly trace everything down:awesomework: