buggy ?

hinton · Dec 11, 2008

OK with the release of the EOR 321 buggy i have been thinking about tearing my cab truck down and buying the kit and starting a tube buggy what i have to work with right now is
ls1 with mild cam mated to a turbo 350 and ord 203/205 doubler
60 front and 14 bolt rear 4.56s and so on with 42 tsls
8 johnny joints to do the rear of my truck

so instead of messing with the truck i just want a buggy so just looking for some input
1 do i real need 2 air bumps and antiroll bars at both ends or could i get away with something else a little cheaper
2 what is a good coil over to go with
3 do i need to sell the Johnny joints and get some sort of rod ends
4 is the doubler going to be to big for the chassis and do i need to go to an atlas

my main idea is low, light and easier to see out of here is a video to give y'all an idea http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-vSPTtWqlk
so any pointers or ideas would be good thanks

Beyer · Dec 11, 2008

I use coilovers and do not use any sway-bars.
FOX, SAW, and King are all good coil-overs, IMO.
You do not NEED air bumps, but I do recommend some kind of bump stop.
I use Johnny Joints on my big buggy and my jeep for years now, no problems.

The EOR 321 chassis is a cool looking chassis. booyang

You would have to ask Jimmy at EOR about the doubler, but I bet it fits just fine. :dunno:

P · Dec 11, 2008

Everything is a compromise, Im certain you can make a doubler work.

You dont have to have N2 bumps although they are damn nice. Poly works too...

If you run coilovers depending on how you intend to ride this thing you can get it stable without sway bar's so that will also save you some money.

Buy the things YOU HAVE to have first, then as you go along or get the money you can add stuff like sway bar's and N2 bumps etc. Good luck and you picked a great platform with the EOR 321 ! Keep us posted as you progress through it once you decide yea or nay !

BamaTJ · Dec 11, 2008

If you are going with the EOR chassis talk to Jimmy and Matlock at EOR about best components to use on your budget. They are really good with getting you good parts for reasonable prices. Jimmy sells Bilstein Coilovers and just about everything else you need for a buggy. I have Bilstein on mine and they are much better than air shocks. I would do a sway bar in the back and N2 bumps up front to save on funds. Coilovers all around.

hinton · Dec 14, 2008

what about running motor plates and mid plates, instead of mounting everything on bushings what is the pros and cons

P · Dec 14, 2008

I mounted poly and in hindsight I would have solid mounted everything... I mean seriously whats the drawbacks to solid mounting... vibration through the chassis and you "may" feel it... Pffffffffft come on man, your gonna be straight up gettin it off road in suspension seats. Go with solid. I wish I did.

Marty · Dec 14, 2008

I like the idea of the solid mounted drivetrains, but really with everthing mounted with poly it might as well be sold. I mean my motor/tranny t case are all on poly and none of it seems to move at all from what I have seen, when cranking the motor/or revving it up. But if I ever have a buggy everything will probably be sold just because its easy and seems to not have any real issues :dunno:

I could care less about vibes. Cant imagine it very noticable anyway in a decent susp seat.

midsouthfab · Dec 14, 2008

P said:
I mounted poly and in hindsight I would have solid mounted everything... I mean seriously whats the drawbacks to solid mounting... vibration through the chassis and you "may" feel it... Pffffffffft come on man, your gonna be straight up gettin it off road in suspension seats. Go with solid. I wish I did.

X2 on the solid thing, we mount just about everything solid and to date never had any problems. As long as you have a quality chassis your good to go. I honestly cant feel any vibration in my chassis, but I am bout all the deaf and numb from the ears down :dunno:

blacksheep10 · Dec 15, 2008

marty, with an AL trans in the middle of your engine and your crazy reduction, you think that 1/4" of travel in the Dtraiin won't crack cast AL? ask me, I've done it 7 times :-\

rock mafia · Dec 15, 2008

Marty said:
I like the idea of the solid mounted drivetrains, but really with everthing mounted with poly it might as well be sold. I mean my motor/tranny t case are all on poly and none of it seems to move at all from what I have seen, when cranking the motor/or revving it up. But if I ever have a buggy everything will probably be sold just because its easy and seems to not have any real issues I could care less about vibes. Cant imagine it very noticable anyway in a decent susp seat.

Thats all well and good, but your frame flexes ALOT. Mine did.

blacksheep10 · Dec 15, 2008

throw all tha tsolid mounting **** out the window with a chevy truck frame. laughing1 I ran 2 of them over the years. WOW. that's where all your articulation comes from. stop when the bed breaks the back of the cab glass out laughing1

Marty · Dec 15, 2008

rock mafia said:
Thats all well and good, but your frame flexes ALOT. Mine did.

Its not like it used to be. I dunno Its hard since I dont have a bed, but with mine boatsided, the frame the the body are welded. I think I only have one body mount now. Im sure even my 1 ton frame flexes some cause all the chevys do. The cage which also ties to the frame, seemed to help some :dunno:

Never knew you had a fullsize chevy Jim, nice