Building a "race worthy" fuel cell on a budget

[mark]

So if one wanted to build a fuel cell/fuel system that would meet or exceed most competition rules but still be budget friendly. What are some ideas.

IMHO Ultra4 spec would be the top of the heap, but that is NOT cheap, but what if we took some ideas and concepts and applied them to a more grass-roots campaign.

Can something be put together for under $500? Even cheaper?

What to start with (poly?, aluminum?, steel can w/poly? custom?)
Summit "cheapy" or??
Foam/no Foam, baffles? Walbro's?
Internal or external fuel pump? Redundancy?
Shut-offs/roll overs/vents?
Sender? Sight-Glass? Both?


This would be for a TBI engine, 16-20 gallon or so. Be nice to find that compromise between safety, practicality, cost and complexity.

Thoughts?

 

[Damnyankee]

So if one wanted to build a fuel cell/fuel system that would meet or exceed most competition rules but still be budget friendly. What are some ideas.

IMHO Ultra4 spec would be the top of the heap, but that is NOT cheap, but what if we took some ideas and concepts and applied them to a more grass-roots campaign.

Can something be put together for under $500? Even cheaper?

What to start with (poly?, aluminum?, steel can w/poly? custom?)
Summit "cheapy" or??
Foam/no Foam, baffles? Walbro's?
Internal or external fuel pump? Redundancy?
Shut-offs/roll overs/vents?
Sender? Sight-Glass? Both?


This would be for a TBI engine, 16-20 gallon or so. Be nice to find that compromise between safety, practicality, cost and complexity.

Thoughts?

I would:
Aluminum. its light weight and strong
NO foam - more hastle than its worth
With Baffels in the right place to help fuel stay where it should be in steap climbs or off campers
Internal fuel pump- because most externals are anoyingly loud
roll over / prevention / spillign- eco friendly
Sender - site guage is not necessary in my opinion only

:swing:

just so i can use that emoticon

 

[Maverick26]

Well I have been thinking about the same thing for the last year or so.. the fuel system seems to be the biggest hurdle for a U4 budget car. The most expensive part of a custom (shape) cell is the liner. Im not going to pay over 1500 bucks to have AeroTech or others to build me a custom bladder so I am going to try and build around a 26g RCI steel case cell I found on ebay. It measures 25x17x17 and will fit just behind my rear axel upper links that come up through the frame (S&N designed). The cell uses the standard 6x10 fill plate with 3 AN ports and a filler neck. I also ordered the cell without foam.

I plan to build my own pickup system with Fuel Safe pickup socks, 3/8" hard line and T fittings inside the tank. NO WALBRO'S!!.

Then out of the tank I plan to run 2 P5000 pumps to a corvette filter/regulator. One pump will be on the ignition/CPS and the other will be on a backup switch. This part may be different for you cause I run an LS motor.

I will then plump in all the required shutoffs and vents for U4 specs.

No sender or sight tube, I plan to just try and keep it full of fuel.

Im on a budget too and plan to have this all said and done for under 800 bucks. The cell cost 250, the pumps are 170 each, the socks are 30 each, pumbing is not cheap. I think I can do it.

 

[rangerboyhoff]

I dont know if you looked at my setup at the race but. . . . . . there are lots of ways to save money, i think I did mine about as cheap as you can and still meet u4 spec.

Used/new bladder cell off of pirate- If i couldnt find one used i would have no problem buying a new one! After seeing some of the wrecks in person (and being in some of them) the good fuel cells are worth every penny. The summit ones work great, just invest in one with a bladder.

No foam, wiffle balls work great for a baffle

I run external pumps for one reason: You can work on them, you dont have to dig into the tank, and you can always see the wiring and fittings

Fuel shut offs can and will safe your life, no joke. Do NOT buy the ones from summit or jegs with the plastic valve handle. I watched a car go down at the hammers at speed, when he came to rest the spare tire had broken off and pinballed in the back of the car, knocking all the valve handles off, with fuel leaking all over.

I didnt use hardly any AN fittings, mostly JIC? which are the same thread, your local hose supply should be able to hook you up for about half the price.

The one thing i wish i did was put a sight tube on it. I dont like guages for the simple fact that its one more thing to go wrong or break.

 

[shrek1]

Well I have been thinking about the same thing for the last year or so.. the fuel system seems to be the biggest hurdle for a U4 budget car. The most expensive part of a custom (shape) cell is the liner. Im not going to pay over 1500 bucks to have AeroTech or others to build me a custom bladder so I am going to try and build around a 26g RCI steel case cell I found on ebay. It measures 25x17x17 and will fit just behind my rear axel upper links that come up through the frame (S&N designed). The cell uses the standard 6x10 fill plate with 3 AN ports and a filler neck. I also ordered the cell without foam.

I plan to build my own pickup system with Fuel Safe pickup socks, 3/8" hard line and T fittings inside the tank. NO WALBRO'S!!.

Then out of the tank I plan to run 2 P5000 pumps to a corvette filter/regulator. One pump will be on the ignition/CPS and the other will be on a backup switch. This part may be different for you cause I run an LS motor.

I will then plump in all the required shutoffs and vents for U4 specs.

No sender or sight tube, I plan to just try and keep it full of fuel.

Im on a budget too and plan to have this all said and done for under 800 bucks. The cell cost 250, the pumps are 170 each, the socks are 30 each, pumbing is not cheap. I think I can do it.

You should do a build on this and post it in the tech section:awesomework:.Lots of good info could be had by all.Subscribed :corn:

 

[Maverick26]

You should do a build on this and post it in the tech section:awesomework:.Lots of good info could be had by all.Subscribed :corn:

I plan to start working on my car again some day soon. Once I do it will all be in my build thread.

 

[nick c]

I agree there's some good tech, I'll watch for it and pull out some posts and put the relevant parts in the tech section.

 

[Hip]

Mark im my build thread i used a plastic summit cell and just built a can around it.... i used walbros and it works pretty good. the one time i ran out of gas i had about 3 ounces left in the cell so it sucked it all out. i have three walbros. i made a y mainfold with a walbro in each rear corner and one centerline fwd where the lowest portion of the cell is.

total cost one bottle of jack daniels.....

 

[mark]

I plan to build my own pickup system with Fuel Safe pickup socks, 3/8" hard line and T fittings inside the tank. NO WALBRO'S!!.

Why to socks and no on the Walbro's? Walbro's seem very popular. Do the socks shut off when they uncovered like the Walbro's? I'm not familiar with the the fuel safe ones.


Whats the quick lay-mans (plain english) take on the U4 vent and shut-off requirements? I've read the rules a couple times but in this case, I'm more of a visual person as for some reason I can't make heads or tails of what they want/need/require from the written rules.

Hardware store brass/SS gas or water ball valves OK or do you need something more *bling*?

 

[rangerboyhoff]

Simple u4 rules- Ball valve on all three lines Pressure, vent, and return (if you have a return) must be able to reach. Mine are located under my spare tire, you cant see them without looking but you can reach all 3.

I think there is something in there about general location of the valves, mine are right on top of the tank driver side

No bling needed for the valves, i use good high pressure brass ones. Ill get some pictures tonight when i get home.

 

[Maverick26]

Why to socks and no on the Walbro's? Walbro's seem very popular. Do the socks shut off when they uncovered like the Walbro's? I'm not familiar with the the fuel safe ones.


Whats the quick lay-mans (plain english) take on the U4 vent and shut-off requirements? I've read the rules a couple times but in this case, I'm more of a visual person as for some reason I can't make heads or tails of what they want/need/require from the written rules.

Hardware store brass/SS gas or water ball valves OK or do you need something more *bling*?

I dont like all the bad things about walbros, they break for the most part. Then they FOD the inside of your tank. Lots of guys switched to socks. Ask DSI how much he likes Walbros :haha:. The sock is just about 2"x4" in size, filters to 31 microns and has a 3/8" barb on it so I can put a small section of fuel hose between it and the hard line. Its nice to prefilter fuel before it gets to the pump, then after the pump I have my corvette filter/reg that my return line come off of and back to the tank.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7297

Simple u4 rules- Ball valve on all three lines Pressure, vent, and return (if you have a return) must be able to reach. Mine are located under my spare tire, you cant see them without looking but you can reach all 3.

I think there is something in there about general location of the valves, mine are right on top of the tank driver side

No bling needed for the valves, i use good high pressure brass ones. Ill get some pictures tonight when i get home.

All this is how I am doing mine. Going with good quality brass valves on all 3 lines. I plan to spray paint then red to stick out a bit more. As for location it is stated as "Ball valves, or a combination of ball valve and one-way check valve, located at the supply, return, and vent line are acceptable. Fuel isolation valves shall be located such that, with the vehicle in any position, they may be rapidly closed to restrict the continuous flow of fuel onto the ground in the event of a fuel line failure."

Here is another little note on how to rout the vent line, "Fuel vent line must loop above the fuel cell to a point that is 4