Bumpstop problem

Eddyj · Mar 30, 2020

I got two problems:
1. I'm a cheap ass and bought used 4inch bumps and only need 2.5-3. They are old bilstein and I'm not sure how to disassemble them to put in a spacer/limiter.
So if anyone has experience with the older style Bilsteins or can find info I'd appreciate it.
2. They need to sit in about 2 inches in order to hit the pads on axles. (I extended the pads on axles ended up causing other problems) my frame rail runs beside the bump can. Has any one notched the frame to accept the can? Any adverse effects? Pretty sure you got Take care that your bump can will still tighten down on the bump.

ridered3 · Mar 30, 2020

Eddyj said:
I got two problems:
1. I'm a cheap ass and bought used 4inch bumps and only need 2.5-3. They are old bilstein and I'm not sure how to disassemble them to put in a spacer/limiter.
So if anyone has experience with the older style Bilsteins or can find info I'd appreciate it.
2. They need to sit in about 2 inches in order to hit the pads on axles. (I extended the pads on axles ended up causing other problems) my frame rail runs beside the bump can. Has any one notched the frame to accept the can? Any adverse effects? Pretty sure you got Take care that your bump can will still tighten down on the bump.

That video goes into to how to disassemble and shorten bumpstops. Not sure if it'll work for your Bilsteins or not.

squeak12 · Mar 30, 2020

Do you have a picture or model number? Generally, remove the valve core releasing the nitrogen pressure. Then a combination of circlip and spring clips hold it all together. Mostly be careful with the any sealing surface and keep a clean work area.

As far as location, you can pretty well do whatever you can come up with within budget and skill level. From what I am picturing, I wouldn't see any issue with your idea. May have to get creative while notching to maintain structural integrity before the mount is welded back in or a lot of disassembly?

Eddyj · Mar 30, 2020

Yeah... that video does nothing for me.

Eddyj · Mar 30, 2020

There is nothing in front of bumpstop on the frame except for some wicked awesome useless pointy things so structurally I'll be fine.

Eddyj · Mar 30, 2020

Eddyj · Mar 30, 2020

I'll remove the vertical tube that's not doing anything and bitch the horizontal "frame rail" tube.

squeak12 · Mar 30, 2020

Interesting bump stop, but makes sense with old Bilstein. In the last picture, you can see what appears the cap or dust cover at the bottom most portion of the body. Without seeing the business end, it looks to me like it should pop off carefully with screwdriver or pocket knife with the tip still on it. It would likely be held in place by an o ring or spring clip that just need force to get it off. Under there will be another piece with many names but we will call it a seal head. With no pressure on the system, it should push inward, likely requiring force and finesse to not knick any surfaces you shouldnt. Once down a 1/4" or so, a clip will be revealed in the body that needs to be popped out to get the internals to slide out. Then you will need to remove a nut then the piston and shims, install spacer, then put it back together and recharge with nitrogen.

For mounting them, they don't necessarily have to be pinched, but they need to held securely to not jostle around. I would think of a way to mount them very unconventionally, personally. It was designed for a different style of bump stop so there's that glaring issue, but here is a picture of a Triton chassis I saw at KoH that I saw it first.

Eddyj · Mar 30, 2020

Well played sir!

Well a couple problems with that set up, can't adjust or check pressure. Getting them out without a hole in the top of tube could be a PITA

ToyotaTom · Mar 30, 2020

That Triton setup looks like a bad idea, what's holding the bump in place? I would cut the can off. Take measurements and mark new location. Cut / notch tube for new can location. Burn it in. Add a bunch of gussets to reinforce the area. Just my 2 cents.