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Bypass shocks???

Elliott

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I'm sitting here looking at Timmies new rig and not to be nut swinging but I dig the rear engine buggies for the extra work and engineering if nothing else, and this one is bad. Anyways here's my question, what exactly is involved in tuning bypass shocks, I'm sure it's just Valving like coilovers but how the hell do you know if you need to make changes to your coils, valves in your coilovers, or valves in your bypasses when the suspension is getting dialed in?it seems like everyone has a different way of tuning coilovers be it heavier springs and lighter Valving or what not, but I personally would be in a straight jacket by the time I got all of that figured out between the total package.Do you dial in the coilovers first then try to put on the bypasses and mess with them to perfect it or what?
 
the easy answer is......
The "Coilovers" are coil carriers( a shock body, holding springs) these coil rates are determined by weight of vehicle.
The Bypass shock is what is "Tuned". :dblthumb:
 
So your saying figure out the coilovers as close as you can then do all your tuning with the bypasses? Is there that much adjustment actually in the bypasses if the coilovers were out of tune?I ask this assuming that there is because it seems like the buggies running them are a lot smoother usually.And is the inside Valving similar to the coilovers Valving?
 
Elliott said:
So your saying figure out the coilovers as close as you can then do all your tuning with the bypasses? Is there that much adjustment actually in the bypasses if the coilovers were out of tune?I ask this assuming that there is because it seems like the buggies running them are a lot smoother usually.And is the inside Valving similar to the coilovers Valving?

most people run very little or no valving in the actual coilover.

And valve the bypass heavy (for what you think it needs) then use the pressure relief valves in the bypass tubes for tuning.

Biggest advantage is being able to tune the shock for different shaft location (extension/compression).

You can make it ride real smooth and soft for the little choppy rocks in the middle of travel, stiffen the shock up if it droops all the way out to absorb the initial energy of a big hit (jumping), and stiffen up toward the end of travel to keep it from bottoming out as hard.

Then you can use a separate air bump for just a bump stop to catch the last 1-2" and not bottom out the high $ shocks, rather than trying to tune a airbump to use as a secondary suspension.
 

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