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Cage Criticism (flame on!)

Boonie Buster

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Started to build a cage for the S-10, I think I should have pushed the B-pillar hoop back further, but it was the best spot on the floor to continue through the floor onto the frame. I'm kinda at a loss as to how to get some cross bracing in the rear section. BTW, there is a HUGE speaker box that takes up the open space behind the seats, so imagine that being there, But anyone wanna take a stab and photshop a few of these pics as to what might be a good way to brace/finish it out? Is the basis of what i have ok? :eeek:

I'll post up some photoshops of what my ideas are in a bit....

Thanks.

Pics:
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I had thought about doing something like this in the rear: (note the LARGE speaker box.... It goes the length of the truck. red is the proposed tube. I was thinking a hoop around the back for 5-points and then posting down to the floor (going to be a PITA to actually bolt, it's double walled right there in the floor :rolleyes:) and then back up to the b-pillar somehow...

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The real question you got to ask yourself is how is your head clearance? If thats good then the B pillar/hoop is good to go.

Why not to do a second hoop full height at the back?


And since you go the seats out, and your attaching to the frame why not mount the seats to the cage :awesomework:
 
The real question you got to ask yourself is how is your head clearance? If thats good then the B pillar/hoop is good to go.

Why not to do a second hoop full height at the back?


And since you go the seats out, and your attaching to the frame why not mount the seats to the cage :awesomework:


I think the head clearance will be ok, I have some sliders for it, but, the plan was/is to attach the seats to the cage. I just think that at full slide back it might be tight with padding on the cage (a must in my book!)

I'm leaving out some info about what i'm doing, I don't want to pidgeon hole myself more than i have to. :redneck: I had thought about doing a full height hoop in the back, but i don't see a need for it....maybe there is, but i just see it as more tube.
 
Hmmm....well if you just have to keeep the big 'ol box, then what you drew up will be about your best option.... I'd lose the big box in favor of tools/parts/recovery gear storage...Just my .02!:D
 
the thing is, there's still a lot of room in front of the speaker box, i drew that too big... the speadker box actually only extends from the back of the cab to the edge of that black seatbelt plastic piece... I can usually store a LOT of gear behind the seat and in front of the speakers...:cool: I'm gonna put the speaker box in tonight to do some more fitment.
 
I'm liking the second design boxboy.:eeek:

i'm not sure i can do those diagonals to the front corners though.... my head might be sharing the same space.:eeek:
 
Ok, WTF do you have hanging from your rearview? :eeek::haha:


it was only a matter of time before someone asked.... I picked it out....:masturbanana[1]:


no, a friend got it as a prank on another one of our wheeling buddy's but somehow it turned into the "whoever breaks, gets it" award.... it's been in there for a while now....:booo: :haha::haha::haha:

I think I scared WarJeeper with it the one day he rode with me on a snow run. :redneck::haha:
 
I'm liking the second design boxboy.:eeek:

i'm not sure i can do those diagonals to the front corners though.... my head might be sharing the same space.:eeek:


bend them up and follow the roof as close as you can... are you just bolting with plates to the floor?

I would stop want you are doing and drill 1 1/2" holes through your floor so you can lower the cage this way you can weld the top sides then build plates larger then the holds and bolt through the floor even if you tie everything into the frame to can bolt through the floor this way you can get as close to the roof as possible and still weld everything up.
 
bend them up and follow the roof as close as you can... are you just bolting with plates to the floor?

I would stop want you are doing and drill 1 1/2" holes through your floor so you can lower the cage this way you can weld the top sides then build plates larger then the holds and bolt through the floor even if you tie everything into the frame to can bolt through the floor this way you can get as close to the roof as possible and still weld everything up.


good idea! ya, i'm just bolting it to what's left of the floor for now :redneck: then after our trip i'll go ahead and build some braces to the frame. ya, i like that idea, i was talking with my friend about how i was gonna weld the top sides of the tube = PITA:mad:.
 
bend them up and follow the roof as close as you can... are you just bolting with plates to the floor?

I would stop want you are doing and drill 1 1/2" holes through your floor so you can lower the cage this way you can weld the top sides then build plates larger then the holds and bolt through the floor even if you tie everything into the frame to can bolt through the floor this way you can get as close to the roof as possible and still weld everything up.

x2...its a real easy way to do it.
 
the horizontal bars on the doors are tacked in. the actual seat bars across are just an idea i have, (calling TTF FAB!:hi:) the bump in the front is just exagerated for going over the tunnel, which might get persuaded with a BFH for the rear bar, to make it a straight shot. but my thought was to have the tabs come off horizontal to the tube to get the seat as low as possible, and ditch the slider idea....oh well... i think fixed points will be better in the long run.

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