in this pic,
the red areas are cup-like inserts. what orientation are they? cup towards axle or towards center? I tried to install them cup towards center, but the center pin didn't want to go in.
also, does the lockright have its own thrust washers and needs to use the original ones from the diff also? Cause using just the originals from the diff don't let it work right. it keeps unlocking too much (read: can't drive it under power for the slippage).
According to the tests on www.drivetrain.com, it specs out correct @ .133 between the halves. A little close actually.
the red areas are cup-like inserts. what orientation are they? cup towards axle or towards center? I tried to install them cup towards center, but the center pin didn't want to go in.
also, does the lockright have its own thrust washers and needs to use the original ones from the diff also? Cause using just the originals from the diff don't let it work right. it keeps unlocking too much (read: can't drive it under power for the slippage).
According to the tests on www.drivetrain.com, it specs out correct @ .133 between the halves. A little close actually.
I've never tried to install one before. This went well until I tried to test it! :haha:As an additional check to be sure that everything has been installed correctly, use a small ruler, vernier caliper or blade type feeler gauge. The distance between the halves of the LockRight, that is between the two drivers, should be about 5/32-inch (.156-inch, or 3.86-mm). The tolerance limits are between .145-inch (3,68 mm) and .170 inch (4.32-mm). If this distance is much over .170-inch, either the case is quite worn or the thrust washers are missing or are too thin and problems should be corrected before proceeding further.