D44 q

zuk88 · Apr 13, 2012

So I'm taking apart my ball joints and I noticed the upper ball joint adjustment sleeve broken in two pieces.What would cause this,off road abuse or other problems.

zukkev · Apr 13, 2012

It's possible the upper ball joint nut was loose or not properly torqued at some point.

99redtj · Apr 13, 2012

time for spider 9 front

zuk88 · Apr 13, 2012

They were pretty tight but then again I don't know the exact torque spec for them.I can't go with a spider 9 front cuz Charlie bought it already :redneck:

zukkev · Apr 13, 2012

Did you replace the threaded sleeve last time you did the ball joints? Another possibilty is the depth of the sleeve was wrong, and wasn't setting the proper preload on the bj's...

zuk88 · Apr 13, 2012

Yup I replaced the sleeve when I built the front end.Is there any on line place to get torque specs on the sleeve and ball joints?

zuk88 · Apr 13, 2012

Found the specs on Poly performances web sight.I didn't have them quite as tight as they should have been :eeek:

JOOP · Apr 13, 2012

zuk88 said:
Yup I replaced the sleeve when I built the front end.Is there any on line place to get torque specs on the sleeve and ball joints?

tight.. just make it very tight. But not so tight that it spins the shaft and you can't get it off the next time.:redneck:

zukkev · Apr 13, 2012

Seems there's a different torque spec depending on which site you go to......The spread I've seen so far has been anywhere from 70-100 on the lower, and 80-120 on the upper....
I'd go with the spec for whatever rig the axle came from originally...:awesomework:

zuk88 · Apr 15, 2012

The front end came from a Chev. 3/4 ton.The specs I found are 80ft. Lbs. lower and 100 Lbs.upper.The sleeve is 50 ft.Lbs.The cap bolts had no lock washers so I think I should add some but on the positive side the ring and pinion are perfect with no tooth decay witch I'm not used to because with the stock crap any thing above 4.57's it failed.

zuk88 · Apr 17, 2012

Another question would be has any one sealed the inside axle tubes due to oil seeping through?The pass side is easy to do but the drivers side has the hole for the vent.Would you seal it and stop at the hole or is there a trick to seal inside the vent hole and make sure air can still pass through?

benw1 · Apr 17, 2012

zuk88 said:
Another question would be has any one sealed the inside axle tubes due to oil seeping through?The pass side is easy to do but the drivers side has the hole for the vent.Would you seal it and stop at the hole or is there a trick to seal inside the vent hole and make sure air can still pass through?

Why don't you just replace the inner seals if you are having oil leaks?

zuk88 · Apr 17, 2012

Its seeping were the axle tubes are pressed into the center section,my axle seals are great at this time.

zukkev · Apr 17, 2012

I have seen (from several factory built, untouched axles) a line of silicone bead sealing the tube/housing contact points...you have to be sure the silicone you plan to use is petroleum product-safe, and also make sure the surfaces are completely clean/dry before applying the layer, ANd leave a tube drainage point at the bottom of the silicone seal......and let it dry/cure before installing the carrier for the final time & filling it up...
Chevy housing?A bigger concern might that the tube is loosening up in the housing a bit??? Wouldn't be the first time I've seen that...Jig it up and weld it...

zuk88 · Apr 18, 2012

I've welded the round holes in the center section all ready and sealed the out side tubes over a year ago,it stopped that seep but I knew some day I would have to seal the inside.The vent hole is right above the inner seal and I don't know if you can get silicon in there.I was thinking on trying it and run something through the vent to make sure it is clear.