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Daily driver welded 3rd's

Dubshot

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I have twi extra sets of 4.37 thirds that are both welded. My question is I drive this truck where i need it to go.. it has 4:10's in it both open.. I run 32's thought these might come close to bringing me back to stock gearing. whats the down side to running welded front and rear.. Can I just lock one hub and roll on 3 wheels until i think I need my 4th and lock it?
 
You can just run 1 hub locked in, but it will pull to the side thats locked in pretty good. But, offroad, you could "possibly" break a birf (depending on how much skinny petal ya use) It will also make chirping sounds when going around a tight corner, ya will get wierd looks. It will also wear your rear tires faster than normal. With 32's an 4.10's, I personally would just leave it open.:hi:
 
It is also real fun going around corners that are wet or slippery in a SWB locke in the rear rig at about 25.
 
I ran a welded rear in my 81 yota with 3.91's (stock), with 33" Swamper radials and yes--it chirped going around corners, and yes it wore the tires quicker....Mine was still open in front, so handling was not an issue ( for me)== I'd stay with what you have if you don't plan on going any bigger--and definitely save for a locker for the front--getting out and turning the 2nd hub may need to happen when it is too late...
 
welded in the back. Open up front.

No good will come from a stock yota front thats welded.
 
I had a buddy that had a bent front housing and he had a locker in it. It seized the locker shut to one side and he only had 1 front tire pulling. He was welded in the rear and we still had to pull him out of the busywild. My point is with only 1 front tire pulling (the same one) all the time it is worse that an open front end by far. I would run the welded rear but leave the front open until you can buy a locker for it. :D
 
My friend is welded in the front. He gets tired of locking, and unlocking the hubs. He has also broke a few birfs. I've got a Detroit in the front, and never broke a birf.
 
My friend is welded in the front. He gets tired of locking, and unlocking the hubs. He has also broke a few birfs. I've got a Detroit in the front, and never broke a birf.

detroit and welded front comparison is Apples to steak cubes. :flipoff:
 
Anybody got an open 4.30 or 4.37 wanting to trade for a welded one? It was suppose to be a open diff i got had a buddy pick it up for me he was in the area and its welded.. so now I got two welded 4.37's.. thats why I ask.. just trying to get a little better gearing..
 
Anybody got an open 4.30 or 4.37 wanting to trade for a welded one? It was suppose to be a open diff i got had a buddy pick it up for me he was in the area and its welded.. so now I got two welded 4.37's.. thats why I ask.. just trying to get a little better gearing..

4.37's are hard to find to.
 
They sure are, I have them in my '81 Toy, they were only put in the first two years '79 and '80, then in '81 they came with 3.90s and in '84 and up 4.10s until you get to v-6 and some newer rigs then its all over the board.
 
I may be retarded....buuuut, if they are all 4 cyl diffs, why don't you just switch one of the open 410 carriers with your welded 4.37 carrier and be done with it? then you could sell the 4.10s as a set with one welded, one open.
 
Speaking as a guy with welded diffs front and rear, the rear is fine. Seems fine on the street too. Minimal chirping, no breakage issues and I run 36's. Welded fronts SUCK. it works but turning is hell when you have good traction. Unlocking one hub doesn't work, if you can't make it in 2wheel, you probably won't make it with one hub locked in either.

It's ghetto and I hate it but i still get to go wheelin, even on a tight budget.
 
I may be retarded....buuuut, if they are all 4 cyl diffs, why don't you just switch one of the open 410 carriers with your welded 4.37 carrier and be done with it? then you could sell the 4.10s as a set with one welded, one open.
:eeek:
1: either you mean switch the carriers, an re-setup the gears, I think he is trying to go on the cheap an easy an just swap thirds
or
2:Run different gear ratios front and rear, which would not be a good thing, transfer case go BOOM
 
because I have no clue how to setup a third member and wouldnt trust my work since I have not experience with diff's.. Otherwise id just buy some 5.29's and throw them in and run 35's..
 
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