Dana 300 transfercase

crash2 · Apr 12, 2007

Ok all the dana 300 transfer cases I have torn down I have always started at the back of the case and worked my way forward. I found a leak at the shift shaft seals so I was going to just replace. But I also found where the front output/shift assembly seals against the case also leaking. Now can I just remove that portion of the case without tearing down the back portion of the case/get to the shift forks? I have tried to find any info with google but all the info I have found tears them down like I do it.

MIG'DHORSE · Apr 12, 2007

crash said:
I have tried to find any info with google but all the info I have found tears them down like I do it.

you're just a rare gem, crash. a diamon in the rough. the ace of spades. :kiss:

Zoediak · Apr 12, 2007

I have replaced the seals on the front before, without tearing down the whole thing.

the tricky part, I found, is dealing with the detent balls. Once I got those past their 'happy spots' the shift assembly housing was a snap to get off.

the last one I did I ended up threading the detent ball areas and placing a set screw into them instead of the plugs they had in it so it was easier to service later on plus if I wanted more tension on the detent balls I could tighten it down a little more.:awesomework:

It just took a little bit of time and aptience to work it off.

darius · Apr 12, 2007

Man up and tear it back down:fawkdancesmiley:

I do thing's the same way you do....sooooo......there is only one way to find out.

crash2 · Apr 12, 2007

darius said:
Man up and tear it back down:fawkdancesmiley:

I do thing's the same way you do....sooooo......there is only one way to find out.

I am having this little time issue--not enough :awesomework:

NotMatt · Apr 12, 2007

crash said:
I am having this little time issue--not enough :awesomework:

Better to go with what you know... you know exactly what's involved and how long it will take so you can plan, vs. doing something different and having some wacky problem in the middle and then being "stuck"... :awesomework:

BTW, the game is no fun if you don't misspell anything, damnit.

crash2 · Apr 12, 2007

NotMatt said:
Better to go with what you know... you know exactly what's involved and how long it will take so you can plan, vs. doing something different and having some wacky problem in the middle and then being "stuck"... :awesomework:

BTW, the game is no fun if you don't misspell anything, damnit.

ha ha :kiss:

no excuses · Apr 12, 2007

Mike, I pulled the bottom cover, intermediate shaft, loosen up shift fork set screws, remove front output bearing retainer/shift fork ass.. Probably same way that you do it but I did not remove the rear cover shim ass. when I shimmed my setent springs. Oh by the way I added a .25" shim to the drivers side spring and wish that I had gone more, and this was with new springs. But its way better then what it was. Next time I will add a .25" shim to the pass, side and a .5" to the drivers side.

68jeepsterkid · Apr 13, 2007

Dana 300

What the last guy said is right! I just tore mine down and installed the tera 4-1 and AA 32 spline output. remove the large access panel and I think you shift into neutral and use a 8-10 inch extention with a allen to loosen the shift shaft set screws, remove the output yoke and shift linkage, and shift plate. the sealant they recomend for sealing the machine fit area is "anarobic sealant" it dries in the absence of oxygen. I also doubled up on the shiftplate assy. gasket to achieve exact gearmesh and added shims to the rear bearing plate. tera low advises shimming your detents to .060 under the spring, I used .090. to get the shift shafts out pull it till it is between detents and rotate it about 90 degrees and as you pull you want to keep the ball out of the slots, you just have to play around and you'll get it! good luck!