Dana 44 upgrade you tell me?

[Rdy4rks]

Got a 72 blazer ls motor 400 trans 205 case with Dana 44 front turning 38 tsls 13.5 wide mostly mud but some trail tired of loosing the front axle/ujoints everytime I put it in four
Looking at
Ctm joints 470+shafts
Nitro 300m 310+shafts
Yukon superjoints 340+shafts
Yukon axle kit 980 with super joints
Superior axles 865 with spicer joints
Nitro shafts with 300m joints 830
DANA 60 1000+ and needs gears

 

[Big_MARK]

Got a 72 blazer ls motor 400 trans 205 case with Dana 44 front turning 38 tsls 13.5 wide mostly mud but some trail tired of loosing the front axle/ujoints everytime I put it in four
Looking at
Ctm joints 470+shafts
Nitro 300m 310+shafts
Yukon superjoints 340+shafts
Yukon axle kit 980 with super joints
Superior axles 865 with spicer joints
Nitro shafts with 300m joints 830
DANA 60 1000+ and needs gears

Easiest upgrade would be to buy the strongest Alloy shafts and upgraded axle shafts. However they will wear out eventually.
Most durable upgrade would be the Dana 60. Now is a good time to get into a 60 since the demand is low. The swap may or may not be straight forward (some modification required...maybe) so while this is most durable may not be easiest.
But changing broken axles on the trail is never an easy task.

I say go with the 60, with 35 spline outers. no alloy axle shafts needed until you go over 38" tires.

 

[JOOP]

I run a built 44 on 39.5" Irok's..

Detroit, 4.88 gears. Nitro shafts, Bobby's 300m Joints, big spindle Spicer hubs.

I used to run stock joints but they would break apart every other trip. Now that I have the 300M joints I'm worry free.

 

[jimdiddy]

go with a 60 youll be happier in the long run

 

[zukkev]

I agree with going to a 60 due to the weight of the rig... demand is down so a stock chev/early dodge 60 can be picked up for as low as 400 if you're patient, add gears/brngs (300ish), and the 35spl outers, you're into it for a little over $1G....

 

[CHOP SHOP]

If you decide to keep the d44 then use Bobbys Ujoints.

No sense in paying double for a product thats no better.

Bobs joints are the **** for way less than the others.

And they are made in the USA (even washington)


For just mud a d44 on chromos will not be so bad. Keep the wheels straight.

The d60 will add alot of weight and drag on everything. And it will need VERY expensive hubs and a pair of stubs to convert it to 35 spline cuz in stock form the d60 with 30 spline hubs is no better than the d44 until it gets upgraded.

Also if your blazer is 6 lug then you will need to swap rims and put in a huge draggin ass 14 bolt rear to match the front.

Boy just swappin them shafts to chromo sounds tempting already.


If ya change you mind in the future, keep in mind a built d44 sells pretty easily.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I agree with going to a 60 due to the weight of the rig... demand is down so a stock chev/early dodge 60 can be picked up for as low as 400 if you're patient, add gears/brngs (300ish), and the 35spl outers, you're into it for a little over $1G....

Sorry Kev, you a little off on 60 stuff. Its not a toyota.

Just gears (200+) Gotta have a carrier cuz ya cant get thick gears for a standard rotation D60 (100 carrier) and bearings (200) and hubs (250) and stubs (200) will be a grand.

Thats $950 right there. Still need the 60 too. Good luck getting a d60 for $400. If ya do it will be a dually dodge with bolt on hubs. Id rater have a D44 then shitty bolt on hubs. Ore it will be a worthless D61 and cost even more to build it.

Know what it costs to convert that cheap dodge front axle? Lots of loot.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I like these too. Smooth turning. Lifetime warranty too.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=67

 

[zukkev]

Sorry Kev, you a little off on 60 stuff. Its not a toyota.

Just gears (200+) Gotta have a carrier cuz ya cant get thick gears for a standard rotation D60 (100 carrier) and bearings (200) and hubs (250) and stubs (200) will be a grand.

Thats $950 right there. Still need the 60 too. Good luck getting a d60 for $400. If ya do it will be a dually dodge with bolt on hubs. Id rater have a D44 then shitty bolt on hubs. Ore it will be a worthless D61 and cost even more to build it.

Know what it costs to convert that cheap dodge front axle? Lots of loot.

Yeah, your right---forgot about the hubs, etc....not to mention I am thinking shop cost on the gear stuff :redneck:--- There was a chev 60 (up here) that went for $400 (it went quick too!:redneck...like I said, if your patient.:; Ok so, $1500 can get you into a 60, if your patient :;...
A built 44 can withstand some good abuse...and built 44's apparently don't sell too quickly, as JOOPER tried to sell his on a couple occasions....:redneck:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Sorry Kev, you a little off on 60 stuff. Its not a toyota.

Just gears (200+) Gotta have a carrier cuz ya cant get thick gears for a standard rotation D60 (100 carrier) and bearings (200) and hubs (250) and stubs (200) will be a grand.

Thats $950 right there. Still need the 60 too. Good luck getting a d60 for $400. If ya do it will be a dually dodge with bolt on hubs. Id rater have a D44 then shitty bolt on hubs. Ore it will be a worthless D61 and cost even more to build it.

Know what it costs to convert that cheap dodge front axle? Lots of loot.

Damn just a negative nancy today aren't we? Picking up a set of CUCV axles with factory 4.56's and a rear detroit is the cheapest route to strength. No need to upgrade to 35 spline unless there is a breakage issue with the stubs and from the sounds of it there is not, it's a u joint/axle ears strength issue which the larger 60 stuff would cure.

A quick smoothing/shave job is easy on a set of ton's. I shaved about an inch off my 14 bolt very easily and the 60 is clearanced about 1/2 compared to stock. Nice and smooth on the underside of both.

That dodge axle is cheap to convert, you know as well as I do parts are super easy to find used cheaply. You just have some odd infatuation with small axles. Enjoy your toyota and dana 44 axles I don't enjoy replacing parts all that much. Yes I know you wheel 367 days a year and are the most hardcore of the hardcore running toyota axles and 49's with no breakage to date. I get it no need to discuss that further. :flipoff:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Damn just a negative nancy today aren't we? Picking up a set of CUCV axles with factory 4.56's and a rear detroit is the cheapest route to strength. No need to upgrade to 35 spline unless there is a breakage issue with the stubs and from the sounds of it there is not, it's a u joint/axle ears strength issue which the larger 60 stuff would cure.

A quick smoothing/shave job is easy on a set of ton's. I shaved about an inch off my 14 bolt very easily and the 60 is clearanced about 1/2 compared to stock. Nice and smooth on the underside of both.

That dodge axle is cheap to convert, you know as well as I do parts are super easy to find used cheaply. You just have some odd infatuation with small axles. Enjoy your toyota and dana 44 axles I don't enjoy replacing parts all that much. Yes I know you wheel 367 days a year and are the most hardcore of the hardcore running toyota axles and 49's with no breakage to date. I get it no need to discuss that further. :flipoff:

Wheeling more often will cure butthurtedness.

I have more D60s here than toy axles. I only own one toyota axle and its under a properly proportioned truck (3400 lbs). NO need for heavy tons on the yota.

And 30 spline stubs dont last, stop kidding. No its not easy or chap to convert a dodge front. Dodge only did internal hubs for 2-3 years (89-91?) and most were dually or a d61.

Ya cant find CUCCV axles for under 1500.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Again just proves ya cant webwheel without a dana 60.


I seen hundreds of people having a great time without d60s this weekend.

Oh well its not my money either, go buy a d60 if ya want the internets opinion.


:beer:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Wheeling more often will cure butthurtedness.

I have more D60s here than toy axles. I only own one toyota axle and its under a properly proportioned truck (3400 lbs). NO need for heavy tons on the yota.

And 30 spline stubs dont last, stop kidding. No its not easy or chap to convert a dodge front. Dodge only did internal hubs for 2-3 years (89-91?) and most were dually or a d61.

Ya cant find CUCCV axles for under 1500.

Thats the key, a properly proportioned rig. The hp, weight, tire size/intended usage and axles all have to match pretty closely or breakage is immenant. A full size on 38's with a V8 in mud doesn't scream balanced to me.

Dodge axles are simple to convert, its a bolt on deal to put gm stuff on there and with a little machining and thoughr you can even use ferd dana 50 stuff and lose 5/8" of hub sticking out too. But yea of course you're right, its all impossible to do. :redneck:

Maybe YOU can't find cucv's cheap but thats not my problem. :flipoff:

 

[Rdy4rks]

View attachment 49396

If you decide to keep the d44 then use Bobbys Ujoints.

No sense in paying double for a product thats no better.

Bobs joints are the **** for way less than the others.

And they are made in the USA (even washington)


For just mud a d44 on chromos will not be so bad. Keep the wheels straight.

The d60 will add alot of weight and drag on everything. And it will need VERY expensive hubs and a pair of stubs to convert it to 35 spline cuz in stock form the d60 with 30 spline hubs is no better than the d44 until it gets upgraded.

Also if your blazer is 6 lug then you will need to swap rims and put in a huge draggin ass 14 bolt rear to match the front.

Boy just swappin them shafts to chromo sounds tempting already.


If ya change you mind in the future, keep in mind a built d44 sells pretty easily.

Factory 1ton but still dana 44 with 8 bolt kills me no 60 under in already....

 

[Big_MARK]

Again just proves ya cant webwheel without a dana 60.


I seen hundreds of people having a great time without d60s this weekend.

Oh well its not my money either, go buy a d60 if ya want the internets opinion.


:beer:

My experience was by the time I was done with replacing all the broken Dana 44 axle shafts I could have paid for the D60 hubs and stub shafts and R&P. Then just would have had to come up with the core 60. IN the end I found the D60 to be a better fit for my application and driving style.

Like I mentioned in my first post. the short term cheap and "easy" upgrade is to just upgrade to alloy shafts and BL joints. There's $6-700 easy. When he breaks them and has to replace the broke **** he's in another 2-300 bones, that's $800-$1k depending on his part "Deals". In the long run the 60 is a better value. But there may be some extra up-front costs involved as you've all pointed out.

So a "little " money now with slow bleeding over a few years for replacement parts, or a big upfront cost for years of "worry free" (if there such a thing?) hammer-downing under that big, heavy rig he's got?

I guess it all depends on the thickness of the OP's wallet!

Also My friend just picked up a High pinon, kingpin Furd 60 for $800 off CL, the deals are out there and the demand is low, so now is the time to get the 60 going if it's ever going to happen.

 

[Corey Y]

That Blazer probably weighs close to 5900 lbs. RCVs would be the strongest shafts for the 44 but they are the same price as a 60 and not as strong. I would keep putting in used stock shafts while looking for a whole K30 truck with a bad motor or trans for under $900, use the 1 ton axles and sell/scrap the rest to make some $$$ back.

 

[Big_MARK]

That Blazer probably weighs close to 5900 lbs. RCVs would be the strongest shafts for the 44 but they are the same price as a 60 and not as strong. I would keep putting in used stock shafts while looking for a whole K30 truck with a bad motor or trans for under $900, use the 1 ton axles and sell/scrap the rest to make some $$$ back.

That's what I'm talking bout BAAAAMMMMM!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/embed/Z4sKg18lTqw

 

[whitetrashfab]

I ran nitro shafts and there 300m comp joints in my 44, I just broke everything else (and one of there axles)... If your foot is heavy or you rig is heavy then save some cash in the long run and go with a 60. How many people have you come across on the trail that said they didn't like switching to a 60?

 

[crash2]

Thats the key, a properly proportioned rig. The hp, weight, tire size/intended usage and axles all have to match pretty closely or breakage is immenant. A full size on 38's with a V8 in mud doesn't scream balanced to me.

Dodge axles are simple to convert, its a bolt on deal to put gm stuff on there and with a little machining and thoughr you can even use ferd dana 50 stuff and lose 5/8" of hub sticking out too. But yea of course you're right, its all impossible to do. :redneck:

Maybe YOU can't find cucv's cheap but thats not my problem. :flipoff:

I have found that the biggest factor is the survival of a 44 or toy 8" is weight. I have seen light rigs flog the crap out of 44's and toy stuff under light rigs and they held up and taking the very same on a heavy rig and I saw more failures.

 

[bobbed_84_toy]

I have a 44 in the front of this thing

It held up fine with a mostly stock high mileage 305 in it. Now it's got a pissed off 350 in it, and I'm always replacing u-joints. It snaps a shaft every once in a while, but if you're smart with the throttle it can live. With that being said, I have no intentions of upgrading it, and have a 60 ready to swap in.