Dana 60 C's

rchrd989 · Aug 18, 2008

Anyone know what the press fit for C's on a dana 60. Im looking to narrow 2.75 on the long side and 1.25 on the short side so on the short side im either going to have to try and scarf the weld and remove the C or send it out to get pressed out from the inside. If the press is about 3 thousands or less I should be able to heat it up and get it off before it completly soaks.

thanks, Richard

wheelinjp · Aug 18, 2008

we just air arch or grind the welds off then heat the outer c and pound off. It is a tight press fit.

AMJ · Aug 18, 2008

wheelinjp said:
we just air arch or grind the welds off then heat the outer c and pound off. It is a tight press fit.

Tight is an understatement!!! Those fawkers are a pain in the ass. The good part is he is taking length from both sides so he could just cut the C's off then cut a slit in the remaining part in the C and work it out much easier.

rchrd989 · Aug 18, 2008

AMJ said:
Tight is an understatement!!! Those fawkers are a pain in the ass. The good part is he is taking length from both sides so he could just cut the C's off then cut a slit in the remaining part in the C and work it out much easier.

yea I can do that with one side because the tube fits 2 inches inside the C, but the other side im gonna have to scarf the welds and try and get it off, im thinking thatif I heat up the c to around 300 or so while I have water running through the inside of the tube I might be able to get it off, curious on the fit though.

64FJ40 · Aug 18, 2008

Is there a reason you can't take 2" from each side? 3/4" side-to-side isn't much as far as pinion alignment goes.

rchrd989 · Aug 18, 2008

64FJ40 said:
Is there a reason you can't take 2" from each side? 3/4" side-to-side isn't much as far as pinion alignment goes.

Im putting it in a YJ and the spring pad widths are different, (forgetting exact numbers right now) and im narrowing it do what my rear is, 64" wms to wms and on top of all making it so Im using the spring perch that is casted into the housing all while keeping equal distances from the perches to the C's. Sat down and figured it out one day and this is what I came up with.

64FJ40 · Aug 18, 2008

rchrd989 said:
Im putting it in a YJ and the spring pad widths are different, (forgetting exact numbers right now) and im narrowing it do what my rear is, 64" wms to wms and on top of all making it so Im using the spring perch that is casted into the housing all while keeping equal distances from the perches to the C's. Sat down and figured it out one day and this is what I came up with.

Gotcha. I was thinking links - not about being restricted to specific perch locations. Disregard then. :redneck:

rchrd989 · Aug 18, 2008

64FJ40 said:
Gotcha. I was thinking links - not about being restricted to specific perch locations. Disregard then. :redneck:

yea, links are in the future, just not the near one :looser:

rchrd989 · Aug 19, 2008

any more opinions

Cascade_Crawler · Aug 19, 2008

run it full width and be 81" outside of tire and just relocate the driverside spring perch to accomidate the spring width difference, it wouldnt be centered, but who cares, its in a YJ with leaf springs, it wont be awesome anyway :flipoff:

rchrd989 · Aug 19, 2008

Cascade_Crawler said:
run it full width and be 81" outside of tire and just relocate the driverside spring perch to accomidate the spring width difference, it wouldnt be centered, but who cares, its in a YJ with leaf springs, it wont be awesome anyway :flipoff:

BAH! :flipoff:

darius · Aug 20, 2008

torch it some, grind it some, and chase it around the shop with a BFH.

angelfly · Aug 20, 2008

Yeah i just did this last night in my garage had to heat up the C to around 450 or so and it pounded off after close to like 30mins of beating the **** out of it!!!:haha:

Getting the weld off all the way was the biggest PITA, with the C cutoff it was easy the other side not so much

rchrd989 · Aug 20, 2008

angelfly said:
Yeah i just did this last night in my garage had to heat up the C to around 450 or so and it pounded off after close to like 30mins of beating the **** out of it!!!:haha:

Getting the weld off all the way was the biggest PITA, with the C cutoff it was easy the other side not so much

yea that sucks, you really shoudlnt have to heat it up that hot, any more than 350 or so is just bad news, im thinking you had to work so hard because the heat soaked into the tube, i think im gonna try packing the inside of the tube with some dry fire hydrant or just try to keep it cool with the garden hose, we'll see how it works